News Tagged ‘Watering’

Greenhouse vegetables.

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

With temperatures rising and summer just around the corner the unheated greenhouse can really start to earn it’s keep. Whilst there are a huge range of vegetables that thrive outdoors in our climate, there are also a select few that really do need the protection of glass in order to give their best.

Tomatoes.

The most obvious and perhaps even traditional of these are undoubtedly tomatoes. There are now a vast array of varieties and types of tomatoes available for the home grower, some of which can be successfully cropped outdoors if the weather is kind. Down here in “sunny” Devon the last two summers of eternal wetness have well and truly put paid to any attempts to produce outdoor tomato crops, with most plants succumbing to blight and weather-related fungal attacks  long before they were able to set fruit.

For those plants grown under glass, though, the outcome was much happier, and although 2008/2009 will certainly not go down in any veg growers record book some decent crops were eventually produced despite the cold temperatures and general lack of anything resembling a traditional summer.

Tomato variety Sunbaby.

The upright, cordon tomato varieties such as ‘Sunbaby’ and ‘Shirley’ should be selected for greenhouse use. Seeds should be sown in mid-March, with the subsequent seedlings being ready to transplant in mid-May. There are also many outlets for young plug and seedling plants which will perform equally admirably and which allow you to catch up if you didn’t have a chance to start from seed earlier in Spring.

Transplant seedlings into 12 inch pots with a rich, free draining compost, and make sure to include a tall cane or other support for each of the plants. Given a little care, plus lots of water and tomato feed, the extra heat afforded the plants under glass will produce much higher yields of fruit, with much better ripening than would be the case outdoors.

Cucumbers.

The range of cucumbers for home growing has expanded considerably in recent years with the arrival of a range of easily obtainable F1 hybrid varieties (such as ‘Fernspot F1′) that are easily grown and produce consistently good results.

Cucumber plants tend to be rather fragile under the weight of the heavy fruit, but should be carefully supported on canes.

Care is pretty much as for tomato plants, with seeds sown in March and seedlings or plugs transplanted into 12 inch pots in mid-May.

The wild plants from which cucumbers have been developed are trailing, rather than climbing, but the fruit ripens far more successfully with good access to light and air, so plants should be supported with canes or tied into wires that run along the length of the greenhouse.

Once the first half-dozen leaves have appeared on the young plants the growing tip should be pinched out to encourage the production of several growing shoots.

Cucumber plants are only weakly twining at best and obviously carry very heavy fruit, so it’s particularly important that these developing shoots are carefully tied in to their supports to keep them upright and stable. Plants should be kept well watered and a rich tomato-type feed given every two weeks.

Aubergines.

Far less commonly grown in this country, aubergines, like tomatoes, are South American members of the nightshade family that most definitely need the extra heat and protection from wind that a greenhouse can provide. As with cucumbers, much work has been done to develop varieties that can be easily grown at home, and very heavy fruiting varieties like ‘Moneymaker’ make for easy and extremely rewarding  greenhouse crops. The plants are also very attractive, not just for the rather spectacular fruit, but also the for the foliage and large purple flowers.

Aubergines - highly decorative, highly tasty.

Aubergines should be sown indoors or under heat in March or in an unheated greenhouse in April. Once they have produced four leaves – any time from mid-May to mid-June, depending on when they were started – they can be pricked out and transplanted into 9 inch pots, together with the same staking/support as for tomatoes and cucumbers.

Plants should not be allowed to develop lots of small fruits or none will be able to ripen properly. Each plant is capable or maturing anywhere from three to six fruit in a growing season – depending on how warm and sunny the summer turns out to be - so pinch out any weak or poorly developed fruit-lets to let the plants divert energy into a few really good ones instead. Lots of water and regular supplies of tomato feed will, once again, ensure the best crops.

Capsicum.

Saving the best to last, we come to the real hot-house gems, the Capsicums or peppers. Until fairly recently hardly anyone grew these South-American beauties in their home greenhouses in this country, but now they are very much the “vegetable de jour” and plug plants are almost as readily available as tomatoes and cucumbers.

Capsicum Sunrise.

Capsicum plants are somewhat more tender than toms, cus and aubergines, particularly when first germinated. Seed should only be sown under glass when temperatures are remaining consistently above 12C, and the seedlings (or bought-in plugs) transplanted into 8 inch pots once they have developed three of four true leaves.

Capsicum are not true climbing plants, but, rather like cucumbers, they certainly do require additional support of a short cane etc., in order to successfully bear their large fruit. The plants should be shaded from mid-day sun and kept slightly on the dry side, without actually ever quite drying out completely. A half-strength tomato feed should be applied every two weeks once the plants are growing strongly.

Capsicum Tequila.

There are now a wide array of Capsicum varieties available to the gardener, from the sweet bell peppers that start out green and ripen to yellow, orange, red or black/purple (like the fabulous ‘Tequila’), to the smaller, much hotter chillies than all turn scarlet upon ripening – they are all part of the same Mexican species: Capsicum annuum.

Aside from the obvious culinary uses Capsicum are such beautiful fruiting plants that you’ll be continually admiring their progress. Personally I can’t think of any more rewarding use for your greenhouse space this summer.


Germinating Molehills!

Tuesday, April 20th, 2010

 

Well, since I last wrote, the weather has been beautiful, but the ground has become very dry with a total lack of rain!  I have had no excuse not to disappear to the bottom of my garden, and get to work on my vegetable patch.  I am happy to report that my chitted potatoes are now planted underground, and I keep looking hoping to see the first sign of an early shoot, but have just checked again and still no sign :(  

However, I experimented with some new seed strips, which are seeds, placed on strips of what looks like toilet tissue, evenly spaced and ready to just lay in shallow trenches in the ground, and have just noticed that only one week later the rocket is just starting to appear in perfectly straight lines….  a bit of a cheat maybe for the serious gardener, but new and innovative and incredibly easy for a novice.  Because of the lack of rain I have been watering daily to help with the germination process.  The slugs have kept away from my lettuce seedlings thanks to the slug and snail deterrent however, I have had another resident in my vegetable patch since the Winter snows melted!  Molehills have been germinating and appearing daily, and although they are the most gorgeous critters to look at, they can devastate gardens. Luckily I know a local man who is expert at trapping moles so it is with mixed feelings that I can tell you the mole has now gone.

In the Summer, when my homegrown fruit is plentiful, I freeze fruit such as gooseberries, which I top and tail first and then bag up. My gooseberries are the dessert variety so they are a lovely pink colour. This simple recipe is for good old-fashioned gooseberry jam. Makes a delicious and unusual sweet yet sour flavour, and this jam sets remarkably well as gooseberries are full of pectin. Remember to keep everything simple and it will taste absolutely delicious.

Ingredients

  • 900g gooseberries, topped and tailed
  • 900g-1kg granulated sugar
  • 600ml water

Method: How to make gooseberry jam

1. To every 450g prepared fruit use 300ml water. The riper the fruit, the less water you will need, and also the pinker your jam will be. Put the frozen fruit and water into a large, heavy-based saucepan. Bring to the boil, then simmer gently until the skins are soft – they will not soften after the sugar has been added.

2. Add the sugar and stir over a low heat until it has dissolved completely. If you boil the jam before it has dissolved, it may crystallise during storage. Bring the jam to a rapid but steady boil and boil until it reaches a temperature of between 105°C and 110°C.

3. Meanwhile, wash some jam jars in hot soapy water, then rinse well. Put them into a preheated oven at 160°C/fan140°C/gas 3 until you are ready to use them.

4. Do the ‘wrinkle test’ to see if you have reached setting point. It should happen after about 15 minutes or so of boiling, and your jam should by now have become slightly more viscous and clear. Have a saucer ready in the freezer. Take the pan off the heat, spoon a little jam onto the plate and leave until completely cold. Then push it across the plate with your forefinger. It should wrinkle up if it’s ready. If it only slightly wrinkles, bring back to the boil and boil for a few more minutes.

5.Discard any scum from the top of the jam and pour it into the prepared jars, using a jam funnel if you have one, or from a jug. Cover the surface of the jam with waxed discs, wax-side down, and either quickly cover each jar with a dampened round of cellophane and rubber band or leave to go cold before covering with cellophane or a screw-top lid. Sealing the jars well will prevent the build up of condensation under the lid, which could lead to mould.

Just heard this weeks weather forecast, and there is the possibility of some ground frost over night, so I need to go and search out some protection for my lettuce seedlings and mangetout plants…..


Planning for a greenhouse.

Monday, April 12th, 2010

Practical and functional, no garden should be without a greenhouse.

Installing a greenhouse is one of those pivotal moments for any gardener. Having a covered area in the garden, be it a conservatory, porch or even a cloche or cold frame, greatly enhances the scope of what you can grow and when, but once you have a greenhouse you’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.

Greenhouses create longer growing seasons, provide protection, warmth and additional humidity for their leafy occupants. They allow you to grow entire ranges of plants, both edible and ornamental, that wouldn’t otherwise be possible.

Seeds can be sown much earlier and bulbs and containers started safely into growth in late winter or early spring. Perhaps most important of all, greenhouses also provide a sheltered, dry and wind-proofed working environment which will work wonders to encourage you out into the garden on otherwise grey, cold and uninviting days.

Site.

A wooden potting table - essential greenhouse kit.

Generally speaking you might have only limited possible sites available in your garden, or quite possibly no choice whatsoever as to where to situate a greenhouse. There is a temptation to locate them as you would a shed – i.e. tucked away out of site in an unused and probably uncultivatable corner of the garden.
Unless you’re planning to house a specialist fern collection in your greenhouse, this kind of location is really not going to work. Another common mistake is to situate with the longest side facing due south into the sun. This will create unfeasibly high summer temperatures and you may end up oven-baking all your plants as a result; at best you will be continually struggling to keep ventilation and humidity high enough and may end up having to shade the entire greenhouse in an effort to keep things stable.

Where possible the very best site will have the longest sides of the greenhouse facing east and west, the door/ventilation end facing south and the northern end against the protection of a wall, hedge of fence.

Choice of greenhouse.

A typical flat-pack aluminium greenhouse.

The best value greenhouses are those that come flat packed for self-assembly. If you have the patience and (ideally) a couple of willing helpers on hand then these aluminium and glass constructions are extremely good value and can provide an ideal solution.

Go for the very largest size that you can afford and can accommodate. You may not think that you’ll fill up all that space, but believe me, no matter how large your greenhouse you will soon find yourself wishing you could squeeze in a little more.

Also the larger the enclosed space the more stable the humidity, temperature and environment within, and the less susceptible it will be to heat loss overnight and over-heating during the day.

Finally, ventilation is an absolutely part of any greenhouse so make sure that yours has as much as is available, preferably allowing for a cross flow of air from end to end and/or side to side of the structure.

Access to services.

In order to make the most of your greenhouse you will need access to electricity and a water supply. Once you have a collection of plants under glass you will want to ensure they don’t get hammered by extremes of cold, and, depending on what you are growing, you may also need to guarantee a frost free environment year round.

A water butt set up to collect run-off from the greenhouse roof.

There are a variety of gas heaters available, but they can be tricky to run and expensive to buy. The best of them also need to be installed by a qualified engineer, and might end up costing more than the greenhouse itself. Having power available in your greenhouse will allow for cheap and easy low level heating if and when it’s needed and of course will also allow you to add a light for those dark winter days.

Access to water is even more important, since you’re going to be using this, quite possibly on a daily basis, for a large portion of the year. Consider installing a tap or at least running a dedicated hose to the greenhouse, and most definitely install a water butt to capture the rain that falls on the large glass surface of your greenhouse. Using captured rainwater not only makes good environmental and economic sense but is also far better for all plants, and absolutely essential for the likes of Orchids & carnivorous plants as well as many seedlings.

Think also about your own access to and from the greenhouse and consider adding some additional paving or gravel in order to keep the entrance clean and prevent mud being traipsed in from a soggy wet garden.

Cleanliness.

All of the warm, humid & sheltered conditions that allow for great plant growth will also create an outstanding breeding ground for fungi, bacteria and plant viruses, not to mention weeds and a whole gaggle of flying insect pests. Keep work surfaces, glass and flooring clean, tidy and hygienic and you will greatly reduce the opportunities for any of these nasties to gain a foothold.

Greenhouses are not garden sheds and should not be used as dumping grounds for all the things that you want to tidy away – the transparent sides should put the kibosh on that idea anyhow, since everything inside is effectively still on display.

Equipping a greenhouse.

There are a few useful bits of kit that you should have lined up ready for your new glassy space. Top of the list is a solid, steady work surface set at a height comfortable for you to work with and strong enough to hold pots, compost and whatever else you’re likely to need. Consider using a table and perching seat – they don’t take up much room and make can make working conditions far more comfortable.

Working tray.

A large, shallow sided tray is also pretty essential. This will allow you to do a whole range of gardening tasks – mix composts, pot up plants, turn out old pots etc. – and all in contained, clean and hygienic conditions.

You’re also going to need an easily accessible and preferably containerised or divided tidy or storage area for tools, labels, pens, ties, plant foods and so on. Think about layout too, and where best to accommodate composts, pots, trays, canes and all the other items so that they are ready for use.

I like to have two separate bins running in the greenhouse. In fact it’s the very first thing that I set up and won’t start any work without them, as it’s amazing how much debris you produce whilst working in a greenhouse. Much of it can be composted, but some things, like old broken plastic pots and seeds trays or diseased plant material, need to be kept separate for waste disposal.

Shade netting - have some on hand long before it's likely to be needed.

Tools will vary according to your needs and the nature of what you will be growing, but secateurs, scissors, a hand watering can and a couple of sprays are all pretty indispensible in my experience.

Finally, unless you have indeed been forced to locate your greenhouse in a dark, shady corner where a shed might otherwise live, then you will almost certainly need some shading ready for extremes of temperature.

You can easily attach shading net to the inside or your glass walls, and some greenhouses come with their own shading systems too, but in either case you’ll need to have it ready to use well in advance of summer.


T is for Trillium.

Friday, April 2nd, 2010

Amongst the most prized of all spring flowering plants are the Trilliums, a uniformly fascinating, beautiful and nearly unique genus of 43 species native to North America with a small handful hailing from Asia.

Trillium grandiflorum f. roseum

Whilst any display of spring flowering perennials is a pretty magical site, pushing, as they do, from near barren ground to display their flowering and leafy wears for all to see, there is definitely something really special about Trilliums.

They are the kind of plant that, when in flower, will cause even the most jaded non gardener to stop and stare, alongside the many converts and aficionados who will doubtless already be drooling with delight.

Trillium basics.

Trilliums grow from fleshy underground rhizomes (swollen stems) each of which produces just one single growth point. In mid spring – typically April in the UK – this slowly enlarges to form a single upright stem with a whorl of leaves on top of which opens a single flower. Over time these rhizomes reproduce themselves and form new growth points and eventually spread to create whole colonies.

Trillium chloropetalum.

There are, broadly speaking, two different groups of Trillium, each characterised by the flower, which either grows directly from the centre of the leaves, and is rigidly upright, or is held aloft on a short stem, and is often nodding.

The leaves of some species are almost as decorative as the flowers, being large, heart-shaped, and splashed, patterned  and blotched with silvery/grey/green, whilst flowers vary from snow white to pink and yellow with a large number of intense crimson, red-violet and blood red. These are plants that aren’t shy about making their presence felt in the garden, that’s for sure.

Cultivation.

Trillium cuneatum.

It’s fair to say that Trilliums come with something of a reputation for being hard to grow successfully. This reputation undoubtedly puts many gardeners off trying the plants, which is a shame, because, given half-decent conditions Trilliums are not problematic in any way and clumps will slowly enlarge and persist for many decades with really very little care, attention or intervention.

One thing that certainly is  true is that plants can be slow to establish, particularly if they are planted as dormant rhizomes. In fact they can sulk and fail to appear above ground at all for the first year – during which time they are actually making new roots and seeking to establish themselves into their new site.

Trillium flexipes.

All Trilliums are much better planted whilst in growth, preferable from freshly divided or already potted specimens, when they should get away quite happily and establish more readily.

In the wild Trilliums are plants of the forest floor, emerging before the leaves on the trees above them, and fading away by mid summer. Once established they can tolerate relatively dry conditions, but for the first year or so they benefit greatly from being kept moist.

Soil should be humus rich and well drained and the position should ideally provide dappled shade – just like any woodland floor in fact.

Trillium underwoodii.

The Asiatic species are much less frequently seen in cultivation and all prefer a richer, more moist soil. In the wild they often associate with bog margin plants like Skunk Cabbages (Lysichiton spp.) and given sufficient moisture at the roots these species they will also tolerate a sunnier spot than their American cousins.

Two species (T. undulatum and T. nivale) lovely though they both are, are much tougher to please and can’t really be considered suitable for garden cultivation outside the preserve of specialist collections.

Propagation.

Trillium erectum.

Most Trillium are pretty slow to bulk themselves up and it’s the patient gardener who gets to dig up and divide his or her clumps. Some species, though, do spread more rapidly and a few forms and hybrids, in particular, have proven to be keener to bulk up, but none could possibly ever be accused of being vigorous.

In the wild, of course, the species spread themselves pretty successfully by seed, and for a few lucky gardeners their plants do the same job without any assistance. Generally though Trillium seed is slow to germinate and the young plants painfully slow to mature to flowering size – four to seven years being the norm.

It’s this slowness to mature and reproduce that has given Trilliums their rather unjustified reputation for being tough to cultivate. Once you’ve seen a North American woodland floor carpeted, bluebell-like, with Trilliums, out-competing rival plants as far as the eye can see, you’ll have a tough job to believe that these guys could possibly be hard to grow!

Pests.

Trillium luteum.

Trilliums are pretty tough customers, absolutely bone hardy and, happily, are not attractive to many pests. Slugs and snails can be troublesome but are easily repelled from individual plants or small colonies, and it’s definitely worth protecting those beautiful leaves from being munched.

Rhizomes can rot when the plants are dormant if the soil is allowed to get saturated or is very poorly drained, and plants can retreat back under ground in severely dry conditions, but that’s about it in terms of common problems.

Trillium species.

Although some of the species are extremely expensive and rarely offered for sale there are a decent number of species and a few varieties that are fairly widely available and at reasonable prices.

Trillium grandiflorum double.

T. grandiflorum is the most widespread species, both in the wild and in cultivation, and makes for an excellent introduction to the genus. The flowers are large, sideways facing, pure white and very showy.

There are also a handful of extremely choice double-flowered cultivars as well as a beautiful pink form in cultivation. T. ovatum, is similar although smaller flowered, whilst T. cernuum and T. catesbaei have nodding flowers in white, often flushed with pink. T. flexipes is another widespread white flowered species, and one of the most willing to increase itself in cultivation.

T. rugalii is a particularly beautiful species. The nodding white flowers have heavily recurved petals that display a central contrasting ovary of deep maroon red.

Trillium albidum.

T. albidum is another gem, with upright flowers of white veined with rosy purple. It’s also gorgeously fragrant, reminding me of violets and roses. T. erectum is another widespread and easy species with recurving flowers of intense crimson red.

Probably the showiest of all Trilliums though are those with upright flowers of deep blackish maroon-red held over very large, marble-patterned leaves. There are a number of closely related species (T. cuneatum, T. sessile, T. chloropetalum & T. kurabayashii are the most widely cultivated, T. decumbans, T. underwodii & T. maculatum the most spectacular) that are variations on the same theme. They can be tough to distinguish from one another, and many in cultivation are wrongly labelled in any case, but they are all nothing short of awesome when in growth, so you won’t go far wrong with any of them.

Trillium flexipes hybrid.

There are several yellow flowered forms of different species, but the widespread T. luteum is always lemon-yellow and is the only yellow Trillium likely to be encountered in this country.

Several species naturally hybridise in the wild and others have been crossed in cultivation.

Although these hybrids aren’t often available, they are almost always extremely beautiful and highly unusual – as well as easily grown – so it’s definitely worth seeking them out whenever possible.


Indecent exposure.

Monday, March 29th, 2010

All gardens are subject to exposure from the elements, but for some this is their single most defining feature, the thing that determines what can be grown or even if anything much can be grown at all.

Rooftop gardens must contend with both exposure and potentially unstable containers.

It might be assumed that exposure in a garden is always due to its elevation – be it on a hill-top, near the coast or on a high roof or balcony – but it can equally be about location. The funnelling effects of valleys, woodlands and (particularly in towns) buildings can mean that gardens that might at first sight appear to be fairly sheltered are actually subjected to serious battering.

In some locations exposure is seasonal or determined by the direction of the prevailing weather fronts. Our Devon valley garden is a good example of this. Surrounded on three sides by woodland, but in a westerly facing valley, for much of the time things are pretty calm and sheltered, but when the weather shifts to the west, straight off the Atlantic, then the wind is concentrated by the valley and funnelled by the surrounding woods to create powerful gusts that have uprooted some medium sized trees and smashed the tops from others.

This happens here pretty much every Autumn, so it’s a seasonally exposed location, but of course others suffer that kind of effect all year round and the common factor that has to be addressed in all cases is the wind.

Bamboo used as a windbreak.

Wind in a garden can cause damage in a variety of ways. Structural damage can occur to garden features and buildings (greenhouses, sheds etc.) as well as to plants.

Trees and shrubs in full leaf have a huge “sail effect” and can be seriously damaged or even killed outright by strong gusts, whilst herbaceous beds can be flattened in a matter of moments with often heartbreaking results. Exposure is also a particular problem for fruit and vegetable plants. Flowers can easily be damaged, burned or torn right away before they’ve been pollinated so no fruit can form.

Wind breaks.

Wind permeable fence.

Solid fences may seem like the first solution to keeping wind out of a garden (particularly a small-ish one) but actually all that they do it to funnel and concentrate the wind, sometimes making a bad problem even worse. A better solution is to filter the wind to dissipate its destructive energy before it can reach your precious plants.

Where space allows trees and evergreen bushes planted at the garden margins and in staggered succession (rather than in large solid blocks) are the very best solution. We use large bamboos that grow quickly and are infinitely flexible, allowing them to easily absorb all the energy without risk of being damaged themselves. In smaller spaces open slat fences and permeable plastic mesh  netting can perform exactly the same job.

Planting care.

Low staking to stabilise a young tree.

Wind rock – where trees and shrubs are moved at the base of the trunk and at the root – can case major long-term damage, and often death of a plant. Trunks are weakened, roots torn away and large, drying air pockets formed underground, all pretty serious. It’s crucial to stake plants adequately when planting to prevent the process of wind rock from ever starting.

Stakes should always be low or the stem/trunk will fail to thicken up properly, causing further long-term weakness and lack of stability. Soil should be well firmed in, although take care not to compress and solidify, particularly with clay soils. Roots need access to air and water rather than being entombed into a giant brick. Containers should be very substantial and/or secured to surrounding fencing, wells etc.

Don’t neglect watering, not just at planting time, but for a good period (generally 2 to 3 years) afterwards too. Exposed gardens are subject to huge evaporation and water loss comes from plant leaves as well as from the soil, so it will be up to you to compensate. Installing an automatic plant watering system might be a useful option too.

Finally, you can expand the selection of plants that will succeed with some judicious pruning. Obviously taller plants will be subject to more exposure and damage, so, where appropriate for the plant, it makes sense to keep things low and compact.

Plant choices.

Although there are various strategies for dealing with exposure, and improving your site to widen the scope of plants that you can grow, it’s equally important to come to terms with your gardens limitations.

A highly exposed, but highly attractive coastal garden.

There aren’t many natural environments that plants haven’t successfully colonised, and by drawing inspiration from nature you can create wonderfully rich and abundant gardens full of plants that have evolved to thrive under the very conditions that would otherwise be struggling with.

The first port of call is the coast, where plants cope with maximum exposure all year round. Plants that naturally occur in coastal situations will always work well in any exposed spot, but it’s also well worth visiting coastal gardens to check out what is already succeeding for others.  Many Mediterranean plants also work well as they have evolved all sorts of strategies to minimise water loss, including small, silvery, waxy or furry leaves and compact growth for instance.

As with any garden, it’s always better to grow plants that are actually naturally happy to be in your type of location rather than choose those that will struggle to survive and create a succession of cultivation problems for you.


Job for today

Wednesday, March 17th, 2010

A job I felt I must get out and do today was to cut down the dogwoods in the garden.  These plants give such vibrant winter colour and if they are cut down around now bright fresh new growth will be assured for next year.  I also popped a few of the prunings into an out of the way place in the garden to let them take root and make new plants.  As I was walking around the garden I noticed how dry the pots were so I spent a very happy half an hour watering  pots and dead heading the  early spring flowers. I am pleased at the way the water spikes are working in the green house and I haven’t had to do much other than fill them up occasionally. While wandering around the garden I also found a big hole coming under our fence and realised that the badger has found a new way into the garden.  This could be a problem in the future when the vegetable garden gets going because  he has started to dig some of the borders. Although thankfully there is not too much damage, he has actually helped a bit by unearthing the ground elder roots and making it easier for me to weed them out.  I know this weed is prevalent in this garden and I am going to have to keep on top of it if I don’t want it to take over any more than it has already.  I think that I heard you could eat it, so any recipes would be gratefully received.

A bunch of Dogwood stems

A bunch of Dogwood stems


Veg garden update

Tuesday, March 16th, 2010

The vegetable garden is beginning to take shape.  We had some spare  time today in the sun shine to mark out  the beds and pathways with wood edges and move some more of the rubble and rubbish out of the way.  We also have to keep watering the new hedge as it has been so dry this week.  Hopefully we will get some more time during this week to carry on the good work as I can’t wait to get planting.

The new veg garden

The new veg garden


Garden Tips

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Snowdrops are nodding cheerfully in the chilly wind and this week there has even been enough sun to entice the little golden crocuses in my lawn open their throats to the sky.

March is very definitely re-bonding time:  Key implements for a lengthy garden clean-up session are a decent kneeler, thermal gardening gloves, a slim-tined shrub rake for grubbing out the remains of last autumn’s leaves from under shrubs and in lawn gullies, a receptacle of some sort to collect the bits for composting and a hand fork to gently loosen compacted soil.  Clearing and tidying yard by yard can be addictive, and the results are invariably satisfying, reminding us, too, of the existence of all manner of just-emerging plants assumed to have been clobbered by the frost – or just plain forgotten-about.   The next job is to get cracking with slug and snail defences (a wide blanket of grit worked well round my delphiniums last year, while the copper tape stuck around the hosta pots is still clinging on for another year).  It is also a good time to cast chicken manure pellets (a more or less balanced fertilizer) around border plants and to mulch and feed roses and other flowering shrubs – proprietary rose food does them all a power of good.  And just because the worst of the weather is behind us, don’t stop feeding the garden birds.  While they are queuing up for a space on the seed-feeders, they will happily snack on the growing population of insect pests on your garden plants.


Improving your soil.

Monday, March 1st, 2010

A few days ago I blogged about the importance of getting to know your soil, but, as vital as this knowledge is, it’s what you do next that really counts.  Once armed with the basics of your soil type and it’s strengths and weaknesses you can then set about planning how best to make improvements.

Loam - the dream soil for any gardener.

You can think of garden soils as being like the scoring areas of a dartboard, with bands and boxes of possible scores representing all the different varieties of soil. Some will deliver a higher “score” than others, allowing you to grow a wider and richer variety of garden plants, but the ultimate goal has to be the bull’s-eye, which, in the case of garden soils, is a rich, crumbly, open, humus-rich loam – think of worm-casts.

The big difference between your garden and a dartboard, though, is that with a little help from you, the trusty gardener, your soil score can be shifted around and boosted in all sorts of ways, and eventually land right on that bull’s-eye.

The general catch-all advice to apply compost whenever you plant anything and to mulch everything once a year is certainly a good start, but it’s by no means the end of the soil improvement story.

Improving soil structure.

The most common soil type is clay based and they tend to be sticky, dense and poorly drained, in extreme cases plants can essentially drown over winter with the roots rotting of into a big wet mush. Improving a clay soil means breaking up that dense structure by creating micro air pockets throughout, which will automatically improve drainage.

Adding compost to clay might help initially, but within a matter of months that organic material will have been thoroughly assimilated and broken down by bacteria and you’re back to square one.

Pea shingle - the number 1 remedy for opening up a heavy clay soil.

The longer-term solution is to add in large quantities of inert, non-organic, (i.e. non break-down-able) material to open the structure and keep the clay particles apart permanently.

Grit and/or pea shingle are what is needed, the exact quantities being dependant on just how much clay there is present in the soil.

A general incorporation of any of these materials every time you dig, plant or work the soil will slowly improve conditions both for plants as well as for worms and other essential soil fauna.

Composted bark.

Beware of adding sand to a clay soil, the particles simply aren’t large enough to open up the dense clay and you’ll likely end up making a kind of home-grown garden cement mix instead.

The next phase in all about keeping a good supply of coarse (and it must be coarse) organic mulch on the soil surface, ideally in bi-annual applications.

Chunky composted bark is pretty much ideal for the task, as is semi-composted leaf mould.

The aim here is not to feed the soil directly – clay soils are already naturally full of nutrition – but instead to feed those worms and myriad soil critters & micro-organisms who will then repay you by working, digging, digesting and opening up the soil 365 days a year.

Improving soil moisture levels.

Light soils – typically sand or chalk based – suffer from the opposite problem to clay soils. They drain beautifully, so nothing’s ever likely to drown, but they are very bad at retaining moisture and gardeners are likely to be forever watering and feeding to keep their plants looking spruce.

Here the non-organic, inert parts of the ideal soil are already present, and you’ll certainly never have to add shingle to a sandy soil, but often the organic elements are sorely lacking.

Humus is organic material that has been digested, and processed by soil bacteria until it has reached the point of stability – in other words it won’t break down any further, but neither will it disappear from the soil. With light soils the aim is always to increase the humus content, which in turn makes for a more porous, sponge-like soil that will retain water through dry spells, but still drain well in the wet.

Leafmould - the most natural of all soil conditioners.

Bulky, organic materials are the solution and your own garden compost is likely to be as good as anything, as well as being chemically harmonious with your garden (since all the leaves and garden debris originated from there in the first place!)

Well-rotted farmyard manure and leaf mould also work well, and other options include old mushroom compost (which is very alkaline) and composted paper, spent brewery hops or seaweed.

All of these should be added as a mulch, where, once again, the worms will do the rest for you.

Mulching has the added benefit of insulating the soil from evaporation and should be considered pretty essential to help conserve moisture levels in lighter soils.

Adding nutrition.

Nutrition is not the same as structural bulk in a soil, although the most useful materials can certainly supply both. Most mulches, though, are not going to do anything for your soil nutrition levels, in fact they may even end up depleting nutrition as bacteria use up nitrogen to break down bulky material like wood and bark chips.

The decomposition of organic matter – be it compost from your garden or manure from a farm – involves several phases, and it’s only during the final phase (when things are pretty much well and truly rotted) that nutrients are released back into the soil in a balanced and useful way.

Horse Manure - well composted and ready for garden action.

Quick fix plant feeds (be they liquid or solid, such as pelleted chicken manure) may feed individual plants but will generally leach away almost immediately and are of no lasting benefit to the general soil. The old maxim of “feed the soil not the plant” is definitely one to keep in mind.

Well-rotted manure (preferably horse, though any large-ish herbivore that you happen to have handy will also supply the goods) is certainly the number one choice for adding slow release nutrition – principally nitrogen – into the soil. Bonemeal is also slow to break down and releases phosphorus as it decays, and wood ash (which like mushroom compost is strongly alkaline) will provide potassium.

Together these are the three main elements for plant growth and will provide the recipe for effective and long-term soil nutrition.


Getting to know your soil.

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Selecting and arranging plants in the garden is probably one of the most rewarding tasks for any gardener, and one that many of us devote lots of time and thought too, but how many of us can say the same for the soil in which those same plants will have to grow?

Good old garden soil isn’t as pretty, glamorous or tasty(?!) as the flowers, trees and veg that it supports, but getting to knowing your soil, it’s limitations and benefits, must be one of the most useful things you can do in any plot. It will allow you to determine the range of plants best suited for success in your particular garden, and so minimise disappointments, and will also let you figure out the best methods to improve the soil you already have.

There are five different types of soil found in British gardens. Any given site can, of course, have a combination of several of these types, and there are also gradations between types, as well as extremes of each, where the gardening is at it’s most challenging. Being able to recognise your particular soil types is probably the best place to start in any garden.

Clay.

A pure clay lump - typical of subsoil that has been brought to the surface.

All soil types are, to a large extent, determined by particle size and clay soils have the smallest particles of all. Pure clay – which makes up much of the British subsoil – is just like modelling clay, the sort of thing you’d expect to find spinning round on a potters wheel. Put a glob between your fingers at it will feel smooth and putty-like.

Most clay garden soils aren’t quite as extreme as that – although individual, fist-sized balls of pure clay are not uncommon even in topsoil, and are typical of new gardens where the subsoil has been disturbed and brought up to the surface by building work.

The great benefit of a clay based soil is that it is extremely nutrient rich and capable of supporting a very wide range of plants. The downsides are all to do with that tiny particle size. When wet the soil is extremely heavy and frustratingly difficult to dig and work with. It can also be easily compacted, driving all of the air out and forming a dense, thick layer that roots can find all but impenetrable. Although clay soils are naturally very moisture retentive – which can be handy in a dry summer – when they do dry out they bake into an extremely hard, cracked surface pan which is, once again, completely unworkable.

Sand.

Sandy soil - open and free running.

A sandy soil is one with a very small percentage of clay particles, where the large bulk is instead made up of much more coarse quartz and silica originating from weathered rock. Take a chunk of this between your fingers and it will always feel gritty and loose. Unlike a clay soil, sand-based soils will never “clump” and will always be more-or-less free running when you dig through them.

Sandy soils can make for fantastic cultivation options; they warm up very easily in the spring and so promote a long growing season, they will never be water-logged and are easily worked at any time of the year. The major downsides are to do with fertility and water-retention, which are both pretty poor, or in extreme cases, non-existent. A wide array of drought tolerant, generally surface rooting plants have evolved to specialise in sandy soils, but unless you are happy to stick with these, a sandy soil will require ongoing maintenance to allow for a wide community of plants to flourish.

Loam.

Lovely loam - nutrient rich and easily worked.

Loam is a kind of generic term given to the ideal garden soil that consists of a roughly equal mixture of clay and sand, and which brings the benefits of both soil types with few if any of the disadvantages.

Loam soils are open, and easily worked but full of nutrients. They are moisture retentive in summer but free draining in winter.

There is no doubt that a loam based soil will support the widest range of garden plants with the least amount of alteration and soil maintenance. Very few “wild” soils are naturally loamy – river basins and flood plains with millennia of silt deposits are perhaps the main exception – although having a loam garden soil is, understandably, an ongoing holy grail for most gardeners. Continued cultivation and improvement will gradually move any soil towards a loamy condition.

Chalk.

Chalk soil - typically very shallow and stony.

Certain localised regions of Britain have naturally calcareous or chalk-based soils, all of which are derived from weather limestone, which is itself the result of deposition in ancient, long-since-disappeared oceans.

Chalk soils are identifiable by their light colour. They are generally very stony too, with pieces of pure calcium chalk in the mix. They can be wet and difficult to work in winter but bone dry and rock-like in summer, and their overall nutrient level is low.

Again, a specialised wild flora has evolved to thrive on chalk soils, but many cultivated plants will find conditions much tougher. Most garden plants require acidic to neutral soils in order to be able to access the full range of nutrients that they need. Chalk soils, though, are inherently alkaline in nature and, unless you plan on replacing the entire top soil, that’s not something that can be fundamentally changed.

Peat.

A very pure, black-peat soil.

The other localised soil type, and at the other extreme from the chalk soils, are the peat-based soils. All of these soils occur in regions that were once marshland, and the peat is the result of many millennia of rotting plants all deposited and compacted.

Peat-based soils are, of course, naturally acidic, and very dark in colour ranging from dark brown to pure black bog peats. This dark colour ensures that  the soils warm rapidly in spring and like loam soils, provide for a long growing season. They are also recognisable for being very light and crumbly in texture but having a poor range of nutrients naturally available.

Depending on where they are located peat soils may either be very wet and still marsh-like year round or, where the geology has displaced and raised the ground level, seasonally dry and easily cultivated. Again, a range of plants have evolved to specialise in peat-soils, and so long as the area isn’t water-logged, the gardening possibilities are rich and extensive.