News Tagged ‘Watering’

Out of action

Monday, May 30th, 2011

Well, I have been out of action gardening wise for two weeks. The reason is restoring our new home and garden.  Although it is the home bit that was the problem.  I was happily gardening when my Husband called me to look at the hidden bread oven he had revealed.  It was fascinating and very exciting to find a 16th century oven but then I helped him clear up the mess, which I didn’t mind doing.  Unfortunately this brought on a bought of pleurisy.  So I have had to rest, which I do not do well but if I over do things the dreadful ache gets worse.  Also I have been really tired and sleeping for part of the day,  it must be the bodies way to make you stop.

Anyway, I do feel alot better now and today I have been back to our new home to have an hour in the garden.  I decided that I would do some gental gardening, dead heading the roses and there are masses of them.  They are beautiful but  suffering from greenfly so I used my favorite method to get rid of them, the finger and thumb method.   There is also a lovely herbaceous border with peonies of every hew.  I have cut quite a few of them to put into a vase, as in the border they really need water and have started to droop everywhere.   Next year I will stake them with a home made hazel supports.  This border needs quite a bit of attention. I have noticed that there is ground elder growing as well as other weeds also I need to pull up the spent forget-me-knots and daffodils.  The border is broken by an arch with honeysuckle and a climbing rose winding its way over it.  Although these plants have started to grow all over the place because they have been neglected and need tying in, a job for another day.

Beautiful climbing rose

Beautiful climbing rose

One of the first jobs in the garden was to remove some over grown Leyandi hedging which now it has been removed has given us evening sun  and the space for a new border.  I can’t wait to get planting but need to en-rich the soil first and take time to choose the plants.  I think I will plant in the Autumn which is when we hope to move in.  We also had the garden deer and rabbit fenced although today I noticed a baby rabbit in the garden so maybe he got trapped inside.  I will watch where he goes and hire a humain trap so he can go back to the wild.

Off to rest now with a good gardening book and a cup of tea.


Enjoyable tasks

Sunday, April 10th, 2011

Today is just so lovely, the bees are buzzing and I have seen lots of butterflies flitting around.  The Magnolia Stellata in the garden is looking so lovely but I think the sun is going to burn the flowers if the weather stays this warm.  Another job that is going to be full on now is to keep the pots watered, the spring flowers are struggling with these temperatures and I have had to move them around so that they re in semi shaded positions.

Dead heading my daffodils seems to be a daily task and weeding is to.  I am going to get the hoe out then I can leave the little weeds to frazzle in the sun then pick them up and pop onto the compost heap.


Going up in the World – the Benefits of Raised Beds.

Thursday, April 7th, 2011

Raised planting beds, in one form or another, have been in use  for almost as long as humans have been cultivating plants – just think of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon….Whatever plants you intend growing, be they ornamental or culinary, these useful and highly adaptable garden features offer a remarkable range of benefits over growing directly in the ground and, so long as you’re not intending to create a new 8th wonder of the world, they can also generally be created simply and cheaply.

Simple but effective - a series of small raised beds awaiting filling.

Amongst the most immediate advantages are that you can cultivate all sorts of things that wouldn’t ordinarily be growable in your garden. Your garden might have soil that is too acid for vegetables, or too alkaline for ericaceous plants, for example, or your ground might be too stony, wet, quick draining etc. Going one step further, raised beds will allow you create planting areas where none currently exist at all, such as in a courtyard or rooftop, or simply make the very most of a small, or awkwardly shaped garden.

The extension of planting choices doesn’t stop at the soil itself however, as the actual sighting of the bed itself can open up new planting possibilities – a hot sunny location is perfect for a herb bed, for instance, and the extra drainage of the raised bed creates the perfect planting conditions too. On the other hand a spot in dappled shade, perhaps beneath the canopies of overhead trees,  would be ideal for growing a collection of woodland gems that might otherwise get swamped in open ground.

The dramatically improved drainage afforded by a raised bed makes the ideal planting environment for alpines.

If your soil is thin, stony, infertile or full of subsoil clay – all of which are common problems for the gardens of many new build houses, amongst others – then the addition of garden compost, well-rotted manure or leaf-mould will allow you to immediately create rich, balanced and ideal planting conditions. Improvements of the garden soil itself could take many years or even decades to come close to providing the same quality of growing environment and annual additions and improvements will be maintained within the beds much more readily than they would in the open ground too.

Another key benefit is that the soil in raised beds is not walked on and so remains uncompacted. In order to create an optimum growing medium  soil needs plenty of water and air moving freely throughout. Compaction progressively destroys the soil structure, prevents the movement and retention of both of these key elements and so seriously limits root growth. Crop yields from vegetables, fruit or flowers are all significantly better where compaction is avoided, and individual plants can also be spaced more closely together, further maximising the use of space.

Lots of veg packed in closely, making the most of the available space.

Even without any additional protection the improved drainage within raised beds means that the soil warms more quickly at the start of the growing season and the start of each day too. The leads to improved growth in general, but also allows Spring vegetables to be planted out earlier, and so the whole crop year is extended, which, once again leads to a more efficient use of space and time.

The benefits aren’t limited to simply extending planting choices, however. When properly sited and built to an appropriate level raised beds can dramatically increase the discomfort and/or pain of bending and kneeling to tend your plants as well as bringing smaller plants closer to eye level where they can be appreciated, tended or cropped, as appropriate. They can also allow access to planting areas that would be almost impossible to gardeners in wheelchairs or with limited mobility.

Raised beds can allow far greater access to soil and plants at a convenient height.

Once established raised beds will rarely, if ever need to be entirely dug over. The presiding principle is to add more nutrition at the surface and let the worms and other friendly soil beasties do the hard work for you, so, as a sub-section of no-dig gardening, working with raised beds requires much less physical work. General maintenance - watering, pest removal and particularly weeding – are also made easier since the soil level is closer to hands and eyes and the lack of compaction allows even the most stubborn weeds to readily be teased out.

Working with a fixed, raised frame bed also allows for the easy attachment of protective covers, when needed. Frost protection can be vital for getting seedlings and veg crops established in spring, and the solid boundaries of the bed can be purpose made to hold season-extending horticultural fleece, for instance. At the other end of the season fruit crops, in particular, can easily be protected from bird damage, by again using the frame of the raised bed as an attachment point for netting.

Highly beneficial though they are, raised beds needn’t simply be all about utility are crop-yields. From a design perspective, using raised beds in the garden is a bit like being given an extra spacial dimension with which to work, and can open up a whole new range of possible shapes, heights and effects that would otherwise be unavailable. It’s not simply a question of  having plants higher than ground level either, as the sides of beds can be turned into cascading walls of foliage or the beds themselves used to divide up an otherwise open space, in turn helping to provide shelter, shade or just simply surprises-around-the-corner in any garden.

Raised beds can make for beautiful, as well as functional garden features.

Despite their great simplicity raised beds certainly are extremely valuable additions to any garden, and it’s no wonder that they’ve been a staple of worldwide horticulture for millennia. In my next blog I’ll be looking at how to create a raised bed and the different materials that can be used.


Lovely dry weather

Friday, March 25th, 2011

With the beautiful weather comes watering.  My pots are very dry as are the hedges under the trees.  I used the murky water from the water feature to water the hedges and then the sludge at the bottom to mulch the hedges.

 clean water feature

clean water feature

A bit of a stinky job but at least the pump will work more efficiently now.


November

Sunday, October 31st, 2010
Dahlias before the frost

Dahlias before the frost

Well November is nearly upon us and really apart from two or three nights, no prolonged frost yet but I am sure we are due to have some bad weather soon. I had some spare time yesterday so I decided to sort out the nursery section of the garden to protect my baby plants and to over winter my Summer dispalys.  I like to try to keep as many of my Summer plants as possible, so I take cuttings from the parent plant and tuck them up nice and warm in the greenhouse.  I also bring in or re- pot( if I need the pot for winter dispalys  ) the parent plants.  I also went round and made sure that the watering trays I stand the young plants in through Summer did not have too much water in and refreshed the gravel inside them to keep the pots above any water that might collect there.

Next I turned my attention to the vegetable patch and decided to plant out my garlic.  This ment collecting  produce such as potatoes, carrots and beetroot that I roasted for supper and the last of the spring onions that had turned into proper little onions.  Job done I moved to the herb section and cut down the now soggy loveage.  I covered this with a cloche and hope that it might sprout some new growth while the weather is warm so I can use it to flavour soups.  My Tarragon had gone mad so I dug up and potted part of the plant and will keep it somewhere protected to use through the winter.  As I was clearing and weeding I found lots of baby plants Crocosmia, Aquilegias, forget-me-nots to name but a few that I have moved to my borders and as I write this they are getting a nice watering.

As I was drinking a well earned cup of tea I had a stroll around the rest of the garden. I am quite pleased to say that it all looks relatively tidy but for the Dahlias that have gone black now.  I cut these down and decided to leave them where they are, so I gave them a thick mulch  with some of my home made compost and made sure I stuck a label in the soil to remind me where they are.


Gardening Tips June

Saturday, June 12th, 2010

Is this everybody’s favourite month? I suspect it is.  The evenings are at last warm enough to sit outside and appreciate the heavy scents of high summer.  Lovely wafts come from the flowers of a superb silver-leafed shrub Eleagnus ‘Quicksilver’, from the perennial white stock (Matthiola perennis) that I grow in large pots all around my terrace, and the white sweet rocket (Hesperis matronalis ‘Alba’) dotted around in the semi-shade of my borders together with the almost sickly-sweet  smell of a small pot of Zalulanskya – an annual night-scented stock relation – that sits in the middle of my garden table.  And as if that was not enough, any moment now the tiny white star-shaped flowers of the so-called evergreen jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) will join the headily-perfumed throng.  There is a reason so many night-scented flowers are white: they attract pollinating moths in the gloaming.

My pond, however, is having a prolonged green water moment.  To control the algae I floated small bags of barley straw in the water some weeks ago (each with a small empty sealed plastic drinks bottle inserted deep into the middle for buoyancy, to keep them in the sun).  As the straw rots it releases hydrogen peroxide into the water which inhibits the growth of blanket weed and other algae.  It takes a long time to work, and while it does you have to keep hauling out the green, hair-like stuff (and rescuing tadpoles caught up in it) but gradually, miraculously, the water does clear.


Greenhouse vegetables.

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

With temperatures rising and summer just around the corner the unheated greenhouse can really start to earn it’s keep. Whilst there are a huge range of vegetables that thrive outdoors in our climate, there are also a select few that really do need the protection of glass in order to give their best.

Tomatoes.

The most obvious and perhaps even traditional of these are undoubtedly tomatoes. There are now a vast array of varieties and types of tomatoes available for the home grower, some of which can be successfully cropped outdoors if the weather is kind. Down here in “sunny” Devon the last two summers of eternal wetness have well and truly put paid to any attempts to produce outdoor tomato crops, with most plants succumbing to blight and weather-related fungal attacks  long before they were able to set fruit.

For those plants grown under glass, though, the outcome was much happier, and although 2008/2009 will certainly not go down in any veg growers record book some decent crops were eventually produced despite the cold temperatures and general lack of anything resembling a traditional summer.

Tomato variety Sunbaby.

The upright, cordon tomato varieties such as ‘Sunbaby’ and ‘Shirley’ should be selected for greenhouse use. Seeds should be sown in mid-March, with the subsequent seedlings being ready to transplant in mid-May. There are also many outlets for young plug and seedling plants which will perform equally admirably and which allow you to catch up if you didn’t have a chance to start from seed earlier in Spring.

Transplant seedlings into 12 inch pots with a rich, free draining compost, and make sure to include a tall cane or other support for each of the plants. Given a little care, plus lots of water and tomato feed, the extra heat afforded the plants under glass will produce much higher yields of fruit, with much better ripening than would be the case outdoors.

Cucumbers.

The range of cucumbers for home growing has expanded considerably in recent years with the arrival of a range of easily obtainable F1 hybrid varieties (such as ‘Fernspot F1′) that are easily grown and produce consistently good results.

Cucumber plants tend to be rather fragile under the weight of the heavy fruit, but should be carefully supported on canes.

Care is pretty much as for tomato plants, with seeds sown in March and seedlings or plugs transplanted into 12 inch pots in mid-May.

The wild plants from which cucumbers have been developed are trailing, rather than climbing, but the fruit ripens far more successfully with good access to light and air, so plants should be supported with canes or tied into wires that run along the length of the greenhouse.

Once the first half-dozen leaves have appeared on the young plants the growing tip should be pinched out to encourage the production of several growing shoots.

Cucumber plants are only weakly twining at best and obviously carry very heavy fruit, so it’s particularly important that these developing shoots are carefully tied in to their supports to keep them upright and stable. Plants should be kept well watered and a rich tomato-type feed given every two weeks.

Aubergines.

Far less commonly grown in this country, aubergines, like tomatoes, are South American members of the nightshade family that most definitely need the extra heat and protection from wind that a greenhouse can provide. As with cucumbers, much work has been done to develop varieties that can be easily grown at home, and very heavy fruiting varieties like ‘Moneymaker’ make for easy and extremely rewarding  greenhouse crops. The plants are also very attractive, not just for the rather spectacular fruit, but also the for the foliage and large purple flowers.

Aubergines - highly decorative, highly tasty.

Aubergines should be sown indoors or under heat in March or in an unheated greenhouse in April. Once they have produced four leaves – any time from mid-May to mid-June, depending on when they were started – they can be pricked out and transplanted into 9 inch pots, together with the same staking/support as for tomatoes and cucumbers.

Plants should not be allowed to develop lots of small fruits or none will be able to ripen properly. Each plant is capable or maturing anywhere from three to six fruit in a growing season – depending on how warm and sunny the summer turns out to be - so pinch out any weak or poorly developed fruit-lets to let the plants divert energy into a few really good ones instead. Lots of water and regular supplies of tomato feed will, once again, ensure the best crops.

Capsicum.

Saving the best to last, we come to the real hot-house gems, the Capsicums or peppers. Until fairly recently hardly anyone grew these South-American beauties in their home greenhouses in this country, but now they are very much the “vegetable de jour” and plug plants are almost as readily available as tomatoes and cucumbers.

Capsicum Sunrise.

Capsicum plants are somewhat more tender than toms, cus and aubergines, particularly when first germinated. Seed should only be sown under glass when temperatures are remaining consistently above 12C, and the seedlings (or bought-in plugs) transplanted into 8 inch pots once they have developed three of four true leaves.

Capsicum are not true climbing plants, but, rather like cucumbers, they certainly do require additional support of a short cane etc., in order to successfully bear their large fruit. The plants should be shaded from mid-day sun and kept slightly on the dry side, without actually ever quite drying out completely. A half-strength tomato feed should be applied every two weeks once the plants are growing strongly.

Capsicum Tequila.

There are now a wide array of Capsicum varieties available to the gardener, from the sweet bell peppers that start out green and ripen to yellow, orange, red or black/purple (like the fabulous ‘Tequila’), to the smaller, much hotter chillies than all turn scarlet upon ripening – they are all part of the same Mexican species: Capsicum annuum.

Aside from the obvious culinary uses Capsicum are such beautiful fruiting plants that you’ll be continually admiring their progress. Personally I can’t think of any more rewarding use for your greenhouse space this summer.


Germinating Molehills!

Tuesday, April 20th, 2010

 

 Well, since I last wrote, the weather has been beautiful, but the ground has become very dry with a total lack of rain!  I have had no excuse not to disappear to the bottom of my garden, and get to work on my vegetable patch.  I am happy to report that my chitted potatoes are now planted underground, and I keep looking hoping to see the first sign of an early shoot, but have just checked again and still no sign :(  

 

However, I experimented with some new seed strips, which are seeds, placed on strips of what looks like toilet tissue, evenly spaced and ready to just lay in shallow trenches in the ground, and have just noticed that only one week later the rocket is just starting to appear in perfectly straight lines….  a bit of a cheat maybe for the serious gardener, but new and innovative and incredibly easy for a novice.  Because of the lack of rain I have been watering daily to help with the germination process.  The slugs have kept away from my lettuce seedlings thanks to the slug and snail deterrent however, I have had another resident in my vegetable patch since the Winter snows melted!  Molehills have been germinating and appearing daily, and although they are the most gorgeous critters to look at, they can devastate gardens. Luckily I know a local man who is expert at trapping moles so it is with mixed feelings that I can tell you the mole has now gone.

In the Summer, when my homegrown fruit is plentiful, I freeze fruit such as gooseberries, which I top and tail first and then bag up. My gooseberries are the dessert variety so they are a lovely pink colour. This simple recipe is for good old-fashioned gooseberry jam. Makes a delicious and unusual sweet yet sour flavour, and this jam sets remarkably well as gooseberries are full of pectin. Remember to keep everything simple and it will taste absolutely delicious.

 

Ingredients

  • 900g gooseberries, topped and tailed
  • 900g-1kg granulated sugar
  • 600ml water

Method: How to make gooseberry jam

1. To every 450g prepared fruit use 300ml water. The riper the fruit, the less water you will need, and also the pinker your jam will be. Put the frozen fruit and water into a large, heavy-based saucepan. Bring to the boil, then simmer gently until the skins are soft – they will not soften after the sugar has been added.

2. Add the sugar and stir over a low heat until it has dissolved completely. If you boil the jam before it has dissolved, it may crystallise during storage. Bring the jam to a rapid but steady boil and boil until it reaches a temperature of between 105°C and 110°C.

3. Meanwhile, wash some jam jars in hot soapy water, then rinse well. Put them into a preheated oven at 160°C/fan140°C/gas 3 until you are ready to use them.

4. Do the ‘wrinkle test’ to see if you have reached setting point. It should happen after about 15 minutes or so of boiling, and your jam should by now have become slightly more viscous and clear. Have a saucer ready in the freezer. Take the pan off the heat, spoon a little jam onto the plate and leave until completely cold. Then push it across the plate with your forefinger. It should wrinkle up if it’s ready. If it only slightly wrinkles, bring back to the boil and boil for a few more minutes.

5.Discard any scum from the top of the jam and pour it into the prepared jars, using a jam funnel if you have one, or from a jug. Cover the surface of the jam with waxed discs, wax-side down, and either quickly cover each jar with a dampened round of cellophane and rubber band or leave to go cold before covering with cellophane or a screw-top lid. Sealing the jars well will prevent the build up of condensation under the lid, which could lead to mould.

Just heard this weeks weather forecast, and there is the possibility of some ground frost over night, so I need to go and search out some protection for my lettuce seedlings and mangetout plants…..


Planning for a greenhouse.

Monday, April 12th, 2010

Practical and functional, no garden should be without a greenhouse.

Installing a greenhouse is one of those pivotal moments for any gardener. Having a covered area in the garden, be it a conservatory, porch or even a cloche or cold frame, greatly enhances the scope of what you can grow and when, but once you have a greenhouse you’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.

Greenhouses create longer growing seasons, provide protection, warmth and additional humidity for their leafy occupants. They allow you to grow entire ranges of plants, both edible and ornamental, that wouldn’t otherwise be possible.

Seeds can be sown much earlier and bulbs and containers started safely into growth in late winter or early spring. Perhaps most important of all, greenhouses also provide a sheltered, dry and wind-proofed working environment which will work wonders to encourage you out into the garden on otherwise grey, cold and uninviting days.

Site.

A wooden potting table - essential greenhouse kit.

Generally speaking you might have only limited possible sites available in your garden, or quite possibly no choice whatsoever as to where to situate a greenhouse. There is a temptation to locate them as you would a shed – i.e. tucked away out of site in an unused and probably uncultivatable corner of the garden.
Unless you’re planning to house a specialist fern collection in your greenhouse, this kind of location is really not going to work. Another common mistake is to situate with the longest side facing due south into the sun. This will create unfeasibly high summer temperatures and you may end up oven-baking all your plants as a result; at best you will be continually struggling to keep ventilation and humidity high enough and may end up having to shade the entire greenhouse in an effort to keep things stable.

Where possible the very best site will have the longest sides of the greenhouse facing east and west, the door/ventilation end facing south and the northern end against the protection of a wall, hedge of fence.

Choice of greenhouse.

A typical flat-pack aluminium greenhouse.

The best value greenhouses are those that come flat packed for self-assembly. If you have the patience and (ideally) a couple of willing helpers on hand then these aluminium and glass constructions are extremely good value and can provide an ideal solution.

Go for the very largest size that you can afford and can accommodate. You may not think that you’ll fill up all that space, but believe me, no matter how large your greenhouse you will soon find yourself wishing you could squeeze in a little more.

Also the larger the enclosed space the more stable the humidity, temperature and environment within, and the less susceptible it will be to heat loss overnight and over-heating during the day.

Finally, ventilation is an absolutely part of any greenhouse so make sure that yours has as much as is available, preferably allowing for a cross flow of air from end to end and/or side to side of the structure.

Access to services.

In order to make the most of your greenhouse you will need access to electricity and a water supply. Once you have a collection of plants under glass you will want to ensure they don’t get hammered by extremes of cold, and, depending on what you are growing, you may also need to guarantee a frost free environment year round.

A water butt set up to collect run-off from the greenhouse roof.

There are a variety of gas heaters available, but they can be tricky to run and expensive to buy. The best of them also need to be installed by a qualified engineer, and might end up costing more than the greenhouse itself. Having power available in your greenhouse will allow for cheap and easy low level heating if and when it’s needed and of course will also allow you to add a light for those dark winter days.

Access to water is even more important, since you’re going to be using this, quite possibly on a daily basis, for a large portion of the year. Consider installing a tap or at least running a dedicated hose to the greenhouse, and most definitely install a water butt to capture the rain that falls on the large glass surface of your greenhouse. Using captured rainwater not only makes good environmental and economic sense but is also far better for all plants, and absolutely essential for the likes of Orchids & carnivorous plants as well as many seedlings.

Think also about your own access to and from the greenhouse and consider adding some additional paving or gravel in order to keep the entrance clean and prevent mud being traipsed in from a soggy wet garden.

Cleanliness.

All of the warm, humid & sheltered conditions that allow for great plant growth will also create an outstanding breeding ground for fungi, bacteria and plant viruses, not to mention weeds and a whole gaggle of flying insect pests. Keep work surfaces, glass and flooring clean, tidy and hygienic and you will greatly reduce the opportunities for any of these nasties to gain a foothold.

Greenhouses are not garden sheds and should not be used as dumping grounds for all the things that you want to tidy away – the transparent sides should put the kibosh on that idea anyhow, since everything inside is effectively still on display.

Equipping a greenhouse.

There are a few useful bits of kit that you should have lined up ready for your new glassy space. Top of the list is a solid, steady work surface set at a height comfortable for you to work with and strong enough to hold pots, compost and whatever else you’re likely to need. Consider using a table and perching seat – they don’t take up much room and make can make working conditions far more comfortable.

Working tray.

A large, shallow sided tray is also pretty essential. This will allow you to do a whole range of gardening tasks – mix composts, pot up plants, turn out old pots etc. – and all in contained, clean and hygienic conditions.

You’re also going to need an easily accessible and preferably containerised or divided tidy or storage area for tools, labels, pens, ties, plant foods and so on. Think about layout too, and where best to accommodate composts, pots, trays, canes and all the other items so that they are ready for use.

I like to have two separate bins running in the greenhouse. In fact it’s the very first thing that I set up and won’t start any work without them, as it’s amazing how much debris you produce whilst working in a greenhouse. Much of it can be composted, but some things, like old broken plastic pots and seeds trays or diseased plant material, need to be kept separate for waste disposal.

Shade netting - have some on hand long before it's likely to be needed.

Tools will vary according to your needs and the nature of what you will be growing, but secateurs, scissors, a hand watering can and a couple of sprays are all pretty indispensible in my experience.

Finally, unless you have indeed been forced to locate your greenhouse in a dark, shady corner where a shed might otherwise live, then you will almost certainly need some shading ready for extremes of temperature.

You can easily attach shading net to the inside or your glass walls, and some greenhouses come with their own shading systems too, but in either case you’ll need to have it ready to use well in advance of summer.


T is for Trillium.

Friday, April 2nd, 2010

Amongst the most prized of all spring flowering plants are the Trilliums, a uniformly fascinating, beautiful and nearly unique genus of 43 species native to North America with a small handful hailing from Asia.

Trillium grandiflorum f. roseum

Whilst any display of spring flowering perennials is a pretty magical site, pushing, as they do, from near barren ground to display their flowering and leafy wears for all to see, there is definitely something really special about Trilliums.

They are the kind of plant that, when in flower, will cause even the most jaded non gardener to stop and stare, alongside the many converts and aficionados who will doubtless already be drooling with delight.

Trillium basics.

Trilliums grow from fleshy underground rhizomes (swollen stems) each of which produces just one single growth point. In mid spring – typically April in the UK – this slowly enlarges to form a single upright stem with a whorl of leaves on top of which opens a single flower. Over time these rhizomes reproduce themselves and form new growth points and eventually spread to create whole colonies.

Trillium chloropetalum.

There are, broadly speaking, two different groups of Trillium, each characterised by the flower, which either grows directly from the centre of the leaves, and is rigidly upright, or is held aloft on a short stem, and is often nodding.

The leaves of some species are almost as decorative as the flowers, being large, heart-shaped, and splashed, patterned  and blotched with silvery/grey/green, whilst flowers vary from snow white to pink and yellow with a large number of intense crimson, red-violet and blood red. These are plants that aren’t shy about making their presence felt in the garden, that’s for sure.

Cultivation.

Trillium cuneatum.

It’s fair to say that Trilliums come with something of a reputation for being hard to grow successfully. This reputation undoubtedly puts many gardeners off trying the plants, which is a shame, because, given half-decent conditions Trilliums are not problematic in any way and clumps will slowly enlarge and persist for many decades with really very little care, attention or intervention.

One thing that certainly is  true is that plants can be slow to establish, particularly if they are planted as dormant rhizomes. In fact they can sulk and fail to appear above ground at all for the first year – during which time they are actually making new roots and seeking to establish themselves into their new site.

Trillium flexipes.

All Trilliums are much better planted whilst in growth, preferable from freshly divided or already potted specimens, when they should get away quite happily and establish more readily.

In the wild Trilliums are plants of the forest floor, emerging before the leaves on the trees above them, and fading away by mid summer. Once established they can tolerate relatively dry conditions, but for the first year or so they benefit greatly from being kept moist.

Soil should be humus rich and well drained and the position should ideally provide dappled shade – just like any woodland floor in fact.

Trillium underwoodii.

The Asiatic species are much less frequently seen in cultivation and all prefer a richer, more moist soil. In the wild they often associate with bog margin plants like Skunk Cabbages (Lysichiton spp.) and given sufficient moisture at the roots these species they will also tolerate a sunnier spot than their American cousins.

Two species (T. undulatum and T. nivale) lovely though they both are, are much tougher to please and can’t really be considered suitable for garden cultivation outside the preserve of specialist collections.

Propagation.

Trillium erectum.

Most Trillium are pretty slow to bulk themselves up and it’s the patient gardener who gets to dig up and divide his or her clumps. Some species, though, do spread more rapidly and a few forms and hybrids, in particular, have proven to be keener to bulk up, but none could possibly ever be accused of being vigorous.

In the wild, of course, the species spread themselves pretty successfully by seed, and for a few lucky gardeners their plants do the same job without any assistance. Generally though Trillium seed is slow to germinate and the young plants painfully slow to mature to flowering size – four to seven years being the norm.

It’s this slowness to mature and reproduce that has given Trilliums their rather unjustified reputation for being tough to cultivate. Once you’ve seen a North American woodland floor carpeted, bluebell-like, with Trilliums, out-competing rival plants as far as the eye can see, you’ll have a tough job to believe that these guys could possibly be hard to grow!

Pests.

Trillium luteum.

Trilliums are pretty tough customers, absolutely bone hardy and, happily, are not attractive to many pests. Slugs and snails can be troublesome but are easily repelled from individual plants or small colonies, and it’s definitely worth protecting those beautiful leaves from being munched.

Rhizomes can rot when the plants are dormant if the soil is allowed to get saturated or is very poorly drained, and plants can retreat back under ground in severely dry conditions, but that’s about it in terms of common problems.

Trillium species.

Although some of the species are extremely expensive and rarely offered for sale there are a decent number of species and a few varieties that are fairly widely available and at reasonable prices.

Trillium grandiflorum double.

T. grandiflorum is the most widespread species, both in the wild and in cultivation, and makes for an excellent introduction to the genus. The flowers are large, sideways facing, pure white and very showy.

There are also a handful of extremely choice double-flowered cultivars as well as a beautiful pink form in cultivation. T. ovatum, is similar although smaller flowered, whilst T. cernuum and T. catesbaei have nodding flowers in white, often flushed with pink. T. flexipes is another widespread white flowered species, and one of the most willing to increase itself in cultivation.

T. rugalii is a particularly beautiful species. The nodding white flowers have heavily recurved petals that display a central contrasting ovary of deep maroon red.

Trillium albidum.

T. albidum is another gem, with upright flowers of white veined with rosy purple. It’s also gorgeously fragrant, reminding me of violets and roses. T. erectum is another widespread and easy species with recurving flowers of intense crimson red.

Probably the showiest of all Trilliums though are those with upright flowers of deep blackish maroon-red held over very large, marble-patterned leaves. There are a number of closely related species (T. cuneatum, T. sessile, T. chloropetalum & T. kurabayashii are the most widely cultivated, T. decumbans, T. underwodii & T. maculatum the most spectacular) that are variations on the same theme. They can be tough to distinguish from one another, and many in cultivation are wrongly labelled in any case, but they are all nothing short of awesome when in growth, so you won’t go far wrong with any of them.

Trillium flexipes hybrid.

There are several yellow flowered forms of different species, but the widespread T. luteum is always lemon-yellow and is the only yellow Trillium likely to be encountered in this country.

Several species naturally hybridise in the wild and others have been crossed in cultivation.

Although these hybrids aren’t often available, they are almost always extremely beautiful and highly unusual – as well as easily grown – so it’s definitely worth seeking them out whenever possible.