News Tagged ‘Watering Can’

Gardening Tips June

Saturday, June 12th, 2010

Is this everybody’s favourite month? I suspect it is.  The evenings are at last warm enough to sit outside and appreciate the heavy scents of high summer.  Lovely wafts come from the flowers of a superb silver-leafed shrub Eleagnus ‘Quicksilver’, from the perennial white stock (Matthiola perennis) that I grow in large pots all around my terrace, and the white sweet rocket (Hesperis matronalis ‘Alba’) dotted around in the semi-shade of my borders together with the almost sickly-sweet  smell of a small pot of Zalulanskya – an annual night-scented stock relation – that sits in the middle of my garden table.  And as if that was not enough, any moment now the tiny white star-shaped flowers of the so-called evergreen jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) will join the headily-perfumed throng.  There is a reason so many night-scented flowers are white: they attract pollinating moths in the gloaming.

My pond, however, is having a prolonged green water moment.  To control the algae I floated small bags of barley straw in the water some weeks ago (each with a small empty sealed plastic drinks bottle inserted deep into the middle for buoyancy, to keep them in the sun).  As the straw rots it releases hydrogen peroxide into the water which inhibits the growth of blanket weed and other algae.  It takes a long time to work, and while it does you have to keep hauling out the green, hair-like stuff (and rescuing tadpoles caught up in it) but gradually, miraculously, the water does clear.


Planning for a greenhouse.

Monday, April 12th, 2010

Practical and functional, no garden should be without a greenhouse.

Installing a greenhouse is one of those pivotal moments for any gardener. Having a covered area in the garden, be it a conservatory, porch or even a cloche or cold frame, greatly enhances the scope of what you can grow and when, but once you have a greenhouse you’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.

Greenhouses create longer growing seasons, provide protection, warmth and additional humidity for their leafy occupants. They allow you to grow entire ranges of plants, both edible and ornamental, that wouldn’t otherwise be possible.

Seeds can be sown much earlier and bulbs and containers started safely into growth in late winter or early spring. Perhaps most important of all, greenhouses also provide a sheltered, dry and wind-proofed working environment which will work wonders to encourage you out into the garden on otherwise grey, cold and uninviting days.

Site.

A wooden potting table - essential greenhouse kit.

Generally speaking you might have only limited possible sites available in your garden, or quite possibly no choice whatsoever as to where to situate a greenhouse. There is a temptation to locate them as you would a shed – i.e. tucked away out of site in an unused and probably uncultivatable corner of the garden.
Unless you’re planning to house a specialist fern collection in your greenhouse, this kind of location is really not going to work. Another common mistake is to situate with the longest side facing due south into the sun. This will create unfeasibly high summer temperatures and you may end up oven-baking all your plants as a result; at best you will be continually struggling to keep ventilation and humidity high enough and may end up having to shade the entire greenhouse in an effort to keep things stable.

Where possible the very best site will have the longest sides of the greenhouse facing east and west, the door/ventilation end facing south and the northern end against the protection of a wall, hedge of fence.

Choice of greenhouse.

A typical flat-pack aluminium greenhouse.

The best value greenhouses are those that come flat packed for self-assembly. If you have the patience and (ideally) a couple of willing helpers on hand then these aluminium and glass constructions are extremely good value and can provide an ideal solution.

Go for the very largest size that you can afford and can accommodate. You may not think that you’ll fill up all that space, but believe me, no matter how large your greenhouse you will soon find yourself wishing you could squeeze in a little more.

Also the larger the enclosed space the more stable the humidity, temperature and environment within, and the less susceptible it will be to heat loss overnight and over-heating during the day.

Finally, ventilation is an absolutely part of any greenhouse so make sure that yours has as much as is available, preferably allowing for a cross flow of air from end to end and/or side to side of the structure.

Access to services.

In order to make the most of your greenhouse you will need access to electricity and a water supply. Once you have a collection of plants under glass you will want to ensure they don’t get hammered by extremes of cold, and, depending on what you are growing, you may also need to guarantee a frost free environment year round.

A water butt set up to collect run-off from the greenhouse roof.

There are a variety of gas heaters available, but they can be tricky to run and expensive to buy. The best of them also need to be installed by a qualified engineer, and might end up costing more than the greenhouse itself. Having power available in your greenhouse will allow for cheap and easy low level heating if and when it’s needed and of course will also allow you to add a light for those dark winter days.

Access to water is even more important, since you’re going to be using this, quite possibly on a daily basis, for a large portion of the year. Consider installing a tap or at least running a dedicated hose to the greenhouse, and most definitely install a water butt to capture the rain that falls on the large glass surface of your greenhouse. Using captured rainwater not only makes good environmental and economic sense but is also far better for all plants, and absolutely essential for the likes of Orchids & carnivorous plants as well as many seedlings.

Think also about your own access to and from the greenhouse and consider adding some additional paving or gravel in order to keep the entrance clean and prevent mud being traipsed in from a soggy wet garden.

Cleanliness.

All of the warm, humid & sheltered conditions that allow for great plant growth will also create an outstanding breeding ground for fungi, bacteria and plant viruses, not to mention weeds and a whole gaggle of flying insect pests. Keep work surfaces, glass and flooring clean, tidy and hygienic and you will greatly reduce the opportunities for any of these nasties to gain a foothold.

Greenhouses are not garden sheds and should not be used as dumping grounds for all the things that you want to tidy away – the transparent sides should put the kibosh on that idea anyhow, since everything inside is effectively still on display.

Equipping a greenhouse.

There are a few useful bits of kit that you should have lined up ready for your new glassy space. Top of the list is a solid, steady work surface set at a height comfortable for you to work with and strong enough to hold pots, compost and whatever else you’re likely to need. Consider using a table and perching seat – they don’t take up much room and make can make working conditions far more comfortable.

Working tray.

A large, shallow sided tray is also pretty essential. This will allow you to do a whole range of gardening tasks – mix composts, pot up plants, turn out old pots etc. – and all in contained, clean and hygienic conditions.

You’re also going to need an easily accessible and preferably containerised or divided tidy or storage area for tools, labels, pens, ties, plant foods and so on. Think about layout too, and where best to accommodate composts, pots, trays, canes and all the other items so that they are ready for use.

I like to have two separate bins running in the greenhouse. In fact it’s the very first thing that I set up and won’t start any work without them, as it’s amazing how much debris you produce whilst working in a greenhouse. Much of it can be composted, but some things, like old broken plastic pots and seeds trays or diseased plant material, need to be kept separate for waste disposal.

Shade netting - have some on hand long before it's likely to be needed.

Tools will vary according to your needs and the nature of what you will be growing, but secateurs, scissors, a hand watering can and a couple of sprays are all pretty indispensible in my experience.

Finally, unless you have indeed been forced to locate your greenhouse in a dark, shady corner where a shed might otherwise live, then you will almost certainly need some shading ready for extremes of temperature.

You can easily attach shading net to the inside or your glass walls, and some greenhouses come with their own shading systems too, but in either case you’ll need to have it ready to use well in advance of summer.


Getting children interested in gardening.

Monday, April 12th, 2010

One of the interesting developments of the last decade or so has been that as we have all become more tech savvy and more gadget reliant, we have also grown closer to the land and to nature.

Children and plants should be a naturally winning combination.

Whether it’s creating a beautiful flower-filled garden or growing veg on an allotment there’s no doubt that many people are keener than ever to get their hands dirty in their own homes, and it’s vital that this passion and interest is passed down the generations.

As well as being a healthy and rewarding outdoor activity gardening, and particularly shared garden projects where the whole family gets involved, can also be a great way of spending quality time together.

When given responsibility for a task, and the suitable tools, children almost always respond positively and the rewards can last a lifetime.

So in that spirit, here are some suggestions, hints and thoughts to encourage children to become interested in gardening.

Keep it fun.

First off, here’s a suggestion of what not to do. Although gardening certainly has it’s fair share of dull, repetitive, but very necessary tasks, please don’t offload these onto the kids. It’s pretty tempting (for both parties) to enter into a garden-chores-for-cash type arrangement too, but doing so is likely to have your children categorise gardening firmly in the drudge department. There are at least as many tasks and projects the completion of which offer rewards in themselves, and these are far more likely to engage young minds and fire imaginations.

Get down and dirty.

Result!

From a very young age many children enjoy digging in and playing around with and in soil – it’s the same principal as building sandcastles on the beach really.

It might be easy to find this inconvenient or messy, but with a bit of forethought it can be the perfect introduction to the world of the garden.

Try to find an area that can be just for the kids or let them mess around in newly dug areas before they are planted. Get them kitted out in old clothes that you don’t mind getting muddy, and let nature take it’s course.

Tools for the job.

Garden tools, child size.

All young children like to imitate adults, it’s a large part of how they learn, so giving them their very own set of garden tools not only allows them to get involved with all the same sort of activities as the adults but also gives them something uniquely their own.

Many garden tools also come in child friendly, mini sizes, and buckets, spades, rakes, gloves, watering cans and wheelbarrows are all ideal.

Either allocate the children their own patch of the garden, or get them involved in all of your gardening tasks – making a potentially dull set of jobs into fun family activities.

Planting seeds.

Planting seeds using the egg carton method.

Growing plants from seed is a basic task for most gardeners, and perfect one for children to learn too. Sowing and growing from seeds allows kids control of a whole little project and lets them see the effect of their attentions on a day-by-day, leaf -by leaf-basis.

It can be immensely rewarding and a source of great pride to grow something as mighty and downright impressive as a sunflower or a sweet pea from a seed. Start small, with a few seeds in few old margarine pots, or even in an egg carton, and see how they get on.

You can enlarge the task further by getting children to record their plants progress – they could measure or draw them at each stage of growth for instance. Stick with fast germinating, and quick flowering annuals for the most immediate results, if all goes well then try some vegetables from seed – whatever your child best likes to eat.

Collecting and categorising.

Shapes, colours, patterns, textures - leaves in all their glory.

Like the adults that they will some day become, many children enjoy collecting “things” and then arranging or categorising them into groups.

Think about what’s prolific on your plot – leaves, flowers, seeds, bark are just a few of many possibilities – and they can all be collected, decorated, drawn, identified and used to create other things.

Think also about expanding and building up on your child’s’ existing interests and seeing how you can incorporate the garden into them. A spin off activity might also be designing, decorating or making labels for the garden.

Using containers.

Terracotta pots take paint very well & are easily decorated.

A great way of getting creative in the garden is to encourage children to decorate and then plant up their own containers. You can start with a basic terracotta or plastic pot, although any suitable container will do just fine.

Decorations can be painted, glued or tied, shells, seedcases, leaves, paint, sand & stones are just a few of the possible materials that can be tried. Then take the children along to a nursery or garden centre, give them a small budget and let them choose something suitable to plant.

They can even research a bit about their chosen plant, where in the world it comes from, how to look after it and so on. Again, the whole idea is to encourage their ownership of the plant and the planter, to get thoroughly involved and let those green fingers start to grow.

The birds and the bees.

Ladybirds are perennial favourite of children and adult gardeners alike.

Many kids have a natural affinity with and fascination for animals of all shapes and sizes, so exploring the greenery in search of insects is often a very popular pastime. Some of these can also be collected, identified and released once again…maybe not the vine weevils though.

Keeping a list of birds that visit the garden, and what they do when they’re there is a good alternative. The ultimate garden biosphere is definitely the garden pond, the number and variety of creatures that will call it home is really astonishing, and often a source of wonder to even the most jaded tot. If that seems to be working well then the next stage would be to build feeders, nestboxes, habitats and food plants, maybe even create a new pond.


Maintaining indoor plants through winter.

Monday, January 11th, 2010

When it’s snowing or hailing or pouring with rain, or just plain dark-all-the-time, it’s easy to forget all about the garden and be cut off from the green world altogether, but it doesn’t have to be that way.

Many folks are tempted into buying an endless succession of cut flowers or disposable instant-bloom pot-plants to bring a splash of colour to their homes in winter. Neither of these options last long, though, and the air miles and carbon food-print of most cut flowers is pretty tough to justify for such an ephemeral display. Much better to grow “real” indoor plants, and then, even if you can’t quite manage make it out to the garden very often, you can still get a dose of leafy therapy.

Phalaenopsis - one of the most popular indoor plants.

Indoor plants can roughly be divided into two types, and, through winter at least, each needs somewhat different treatment. First off are your traditional house plants. These are, for the most part tropical imports that hail from the dark understories of forests. For many the big leafy Cheese Plants and Philodendrons are forever linked with the ‘70’s and it’s actually quite tough to find them for sale these days. Moth Orchids – Phalaenopsis – on the other hand, are deemed essential indoor accessories and pop up just about everywhere. Various bromeliads and carnivorous exotica like pitcher plants are also super fashionable right now, whilst old favourites like Christmas Cactus and African Violets are also offered for their seasonal blooms

All of these house plants grow successfully in our homes because the warmth and relatively low light levels mimic what they would have in the wild. Trouble is they are also used to close to 100% humidity in their native habitats, and when the central heating goes on in winter the air in our homes dries out to a potential dangerous extent.

Another big issue they face is sudden changes in temperature, and in particular cold drafts, something that no rainforest dweller would ever be exposed to. Just like their outdoor cousins house plants do have winter a dormant period too. Although they may not look much different to the casual glance they do (or at least they should) stop growing and take up far less water and almost no nutrients.

So, if these are the problems, what are the solutions? First off think of where your  plants are positioned in your home. Can you give them more light without exposing them to drafts? A west or south facing window can be are ideal, but keep house plants away from the glass itself where temps can plunge at night, and definitely well away from the icy blasts of doors.

Automatic plant watering system.

Keep watering to an absolute minimum. House plants should never be allowed to sit in water over winter and should be kept on the dry side all season, so no daily hovering with a watering can. An automatic plant watering system is an ideal way to provide just the right amount of moisture to the roots. No feed should be given either – you don’t want to suddenly wake them into growth when the light levels are too low to support new shoots. Equally important, though, is humidity at the leaves. Bathrooms and kitchens – the steamier rooms of the house – can provide better winter quarters for house plants, but only if they’re also light enough. Daily spraying of leaves (ideally with rain water) works well, as does placing the pot in a tray filled with pebbles and water, and letting natural evaporation do the rest.

The second group of winter indoor plants are actually hardy garden plants. Your job is to fool them into thinking that it’s already spring. If you succeed – and frankly, it’s not that hard – then they’ll reward you with a display of flowers, foliage or edible shoots that should definitely put a zing back into the dark months.

Helleborus niger makes a great seasonal houseplant.

The two keys to growing Spring flowering garden plants indoors are light and heat.  You need to find as bright a position as possible, but also one that’s relatively cool. All you’re trying to do is nudge the plants forward a month or two, not plunge them into a balmy August. Feed and water well, and success should be yours.

Shorter growing plants work best as taller specimens can easily get drawn and leggy in the low winter light. One of the best to try is Helleborus niger, the so-called Christmas Rose, actually a buttercup relative that flowers outdoors from late Feb, but delivers the goods indoors during December. Evergreen Azaleas, which these days come in a dazzling array of colours, and all manner of Spring flowering bulbs also work well. Narcissus, Hyacinths, Crocus, Chionodoxa, Iris, Muscari  and, for the more ambitious, smaller species and varieties of Lilium can all be readily forced, i.e. encouraged to flower early indoors.

Indoor herbs grown from seed.

Finally one of the most fashionable, not to say useful groups of winter indoor plants are the herbs. These can prove more challenging since they are essentially Mediterranean natives that prefer basking in sunshine, so lots of light, together with a decent feeding and watering regimen is the order of the day. Basil, Chervil, Dill, Coriander and Parsley can all be grown from seeds on a south-facing windowsill, whilst plants of Bay, Oregano, Tarragon & Thyme can be transferred from the garden or bought in specially. Give them a few weeks in a transition zone – an unheated porch for example – before moving plants into their heated quarters, and they’ll provide winter-long tasty results direct into the kitchen.

The big advantage of all of these outdoor/indoor plants is that, once they’ve finished doing their thing indoors they can take up permanent residence in your garden, in effect giving you two uses from one plant – who could ask for more!?