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Summer Cuttings.

Thursday, August 18th, 2011

Aside from all their other many distinctions and similarities, gardeners tend to fall into one of two camps: those who propagate and those who don’t. At the ago of around 10, and with able parental assistance, I built myself a little heated propagator, fuelled by a single light bulb. Into this tiny hot-house I put all manner of tropical and house-plant cuttings, those plants being my primary interest at that age. The ease with which most of my experimental subjects sprouted roots and became new, independent living plants astonished and delighted me, and from there on I was pretty much hooked.

There’s no greater encouragement than success, and I suspect that, much like myself, most gardeners who have tried and succeeded in creating new plants from old are equally hooked and continue to dabble in the art of propagation for the rest of their gardening days. Those who haven’t yet dipped their toes in the water are missing a treat. After all, what could be more satisfying than producing new plants for yourself or for friends, for free, particularly when doing so requires very little time and no particular green-fingered skill.

Newly rooted Salvia cuttings - just 4 weeks after being taken.

There are a variety of types of cuttings and times of year in which to make them, from softwood – made from the new growth of spring – to fully matured hardwood – often made over winter. Right now, though, is the perfect time of year for success with two different cutting types, taken from two different plant types. The first of these are semi-ripe cuttings of hardwood shrubs, both deciduous and evergreen. The second are soft growth cuttings made from tender perennials  such as Verbena, Pelargonium, Argyranthemum, Fuchsia, Salvias etc. Despite the obvious differences in the types of plants and the cutting material involved, the techniques for both are the essentially the same, dictated, as they are, more by the time of year rather than the type of plant involved.

Once you’ve decided upon a plant that you want to propagate the first course of action is to assemble your materials, very simple though they are. In it’s most basic form, all that you will need are:

1) Sterilized small plastic plant pots (boiling water will do the trick perfectly well)

2) Clear plastic bags (freezer bags etc.) that fit snugly over the tops of the pots and/or elastic bands to keep them in place

3) Potting compost (more of which anon)

4) Labels

5) Hormone rooting powder or liquid (optional, rather than essential)

6) Sharp secateurs (essential, rather than optional)

Semi-ripe summer cuttings are the ideal way to propagate many woody shrubs.

You’re now ready to take the cuttings. On shrubby plants choose growth that has been made earlier the same year, which will be noticeably different in colour and firmness than the previous years’ growth. The shoots should be pest and disease free and also non-flowering. Aim to make cuttings that are approx. 5 to 10 cm in length, making a straight, clean cut just below a pair of leaves or growth buds – it’s often easier to take somewhat longer shoots and then re-trim them ready for use later. Place the cuttings into a moistened plastic bag immediately, and keep in the shade, to help prevent water-loss and the subsequent wilting which can be terminal for a new cutting.

Make the cut just beneath a leaf joint.

Once back at your potting area you can further trim and prepare the cuttings, leaving just one or two pairs of leaves at the growing tip, and removing all of the lower leaves, most particularly any that would be in or upon the compost once the cutting is potted up. This reduces water loss as well as helping to minimise the risk of rotting and fungal infection. The leaf joints of plants are loaded with growth hormones, but many cuttings tend to root better and more quickly if the cut end is dipped into rooting hormone power or liquid, although this artificial hormone boost is far from crucial.

Dipping a newly trimmed Perlagonium cutting into hormone rooting powder.

The next step is the compost mixture, which, for cuttings, needs to fulfil two somewhat opposing roles. Obviously a cutting, until rooted, is unable to draw water up in the way that a fully formed plant can, so composts need to be sufficiently moisture-retentive to prevent drying out and death. At the same time the compost much be very free-draining since any hint of water-logging will likely spell rot and the rapid advance of fungal infection. The nutrient level of the compost is largely irrelevant since cuttings do not draw food from their compost until they are well rooted. With all of this in mind a good cuttings compost should be about 50% sharp, coarse, large-particle drainage material – horticultural grit or perlite, definitely NOT sand – and 50%  potting compost, preferably soil/loam or bark based.

Parent plant and new cuttings in a sharply draining grit/loam mix.

Fill one of your pots with the compost mixture, firming down well and levelling off leaving a few cm at the top of the pot to allow for eventual watering. You can then insert several cuttings around the edge of the pot (this being where the drainage is best) making sure, as much as possible, that they do not touch one another and than none of their leaves touch the compost surface. In the case of cuttings from plants with very large leaves it is often best to reduce the size of each individual leaf so that they fit more comfortably into their pot. Cuttings root best when in company, so by all means place as many as possible into each pot. Then label and water well, making sure than the water drains freely out of the bottom of the pot.

Hebe cuttings being inserted around the edge of their pot.

Then pop one of the plastic bags over the pot, holding securely with an elastic band if neccessary. It’s essential that the bag is airtight in order to maintain close to 100% humidity within. If the bag is loose or ill-fitting then the cuttings will rapidly dry out and are almost certain to fail. Further options are the use of a propagator – a commercial variant of my childhood heated cuttings frame – or an under-pot heating pad, both of which can speed up the rooting process. The pots should then be placed in good light place, but kept out of direct sunlight until they have rooted.

Rhododendron cuttings, trimmed to size and firmly sealed into their zip-lock plastic bag.

From there it’s merely a question of checking that the moisture level is maintained – the bag should ideally be permanently “fogged” inside – and removing and fallen or aborted leaves ASAP. The aim of summer cuttings is to produce new young plants for the following growing season. Some subjects will root easily and quickly, within a few weeks, but others can take several months. Look for the presence of young roots appearing at the base of the pot, and for growth appearing on the cutting itself rather than being tempted to dig around in the pot to see what’s going on. Once they have rooted then you can punch a few holes in the bag to let the cuttings acclimatise to the lower humidly outside and eventually remove the bag and pot the cuttings up individually. Again, with rapid-rooting varieties of plant you’ll be able to get them to this stage before the end of the growing season, but slower rooting cuttings should be left to go dormant and can then be potted up individually the following spring.

A fig cutting, successfully rooted and now individually potted up.


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Knifophias: their rise and fall…and rise and fall…

Thursday, July 28th, 2011

It’s always fascinating to chart the progress of plant fashions. Some plants that have been quietly growing away in a few gardens are suddenly swept up in a horticultural fervour to become everyone’s must-grow of the season. Others, once favoured, are cast aside and occasionally banished altogether from all “fashionable” gardens, sometimes to be entirely lost to generations of future gardeners, or else kept alive only by a faithful few, waiting for their moment to return to centre stage.

Kniphofia uvaria - where it all began, with the familiar Red Hot Poker.

Kniphofias, commonly known as Torch Lilies, are a prime example, and these exotic, African, summer-flowering Lily relatives have had more than their fare share of rises and falls in the fashion stakes. Kniphofia uvaria – the classic Red Hot Poker – is a native of South Africa that was originally introduced into European horticulture in Victorian times. The huge stems, reaching to nearly 2 metres in height to bear the vividly coloured flowers, were quite the sensation back in the late 1800′s, and the plants were highly sought after, fitting easily into the Victorian gardening passion for all things exotic.  However coming, as they do, from relatively arid regions, these Pokers could not be grown alongside other prized hot-house exotica, and the plants were, in any event, quite hardy enough to live in outdoors, so they were duly planted out in front gardens and amongst borders.

Kniphofia 'Shining Sceptre' - one of the new generation of hybrids.

Once integrated into general garden planting schemes their inherent showiness started to divide contemporary garden writers, many of whom found them vulgar, coarse and brash. All too soon the Poker’s star was on the wane, and throughout the first half of the 20th century they were not thought fit for planting at all as the passion for recreating the traditional English cottage garden came to the fore. But this was just their first ride on the roller-coaster of fashion. By the 1960′s pop culture was beginning to have a dramatic effect on gardening tastes, and the big, brash Red Hot Poker was just the thing to inject the fun back into the fusty, fussy gardens of England. Their popularity exploded as never before and by the 1970′s Knifophia uvaria was literally everywhere – widely planted both in individual gardens and municipal schemes.

Kniphofia 'Brimstone' - flowers of pure canary yellow.

All things change, however, and within another decade their ubiquity saw the plants castigated as never before – this time not only were they deemed vulgar but also now common – the very epitome of bad taste. So plants were dug up and composted across the land as new fashions for cool colours and subtle foliage effects started to take a hold. This time ’round, however, their time in the shadows was to be relatively short lived  as two different factors came to bear.

Kniphofia 'Samuel's Sensation' - tall flowers of solid orange-red.

Firstly, there was a discovery of the remainder of the genus. K. uvaria is only one of over 70 species of Torch Lily, and until the tail end of the 20th Century very few others were grown or indeed available to gardeners to consider growing. However as garden writers such as Beth Chatto started planting, hybridizing, and extolling the virtues of the smaller, more elegant Kniphofias word slowly began to spread.

Kniphofia 'Little Maid' - one of Beth Chatto's introductions, with slender, cream coloured flowers to around 60cm.

These “new” plants (many of them wild species that had simply never previously been utilised in the garden) were often versatile and subtle and were readily integrated into a wide array of planting styles and schemes, even, ironically, the cottage garden whose bumptious informality had once been the nail in the coffin of the original Red Hot Poker.

Kniphofia 'Jenny Bloom' - one of the current must-have varieties, with flowers of coral-apricot and slender, grass-like foliage.

The second factor was also instigated by garden writers, and Christopher Lloyd in particular. He deliberately, and quite controversially at first, flew in the face of what was perceived to be good taste, and sought to introduce drama, vivid colour, and above all fun back into the garden. His now world-famous “hot colour” plantings were a reaction against the ever more restrained and subtle naturalistic plantings that were dominated by the subtle texture of grasses. Big and bold was his maxim, and as others came to realise that rules could be broken and gardens could be both relaxed and exciting, copy-cat hot plantings started springing up all over the country, pushing the good old Red Hot Poker back to some kind of prominence once again.

Kniphofia caulescens - much sought after for it's highly architectural, Agave-like, steel-blue foliage.

Other species, and Kniphofia caulescens in particular, have become part of the vanguard for architectural plants and are highly sought after for use in modern, formal, often urban settings as well as for more relaxed tropical plantings where they rub leafy shoulders with the likes of Cannas, Gingers and Tree Ferns.

Kniphofia uvalis 'Nobilis' nestled in the Hot Border at Christopher Lloyd's Great Dixter garden.

Although it’s now widely available in a diversity of forms, this time around K. uvaria isn’t the focus of the main attention. An explosion of new forms and colours have reached nurseries and are now available to satisfy the demands of both the hot colour camp and the cool and elegant camp – strength through diversity, you could call it. Kniphofias now supply flowers in bright red (of course) orange, salmon, apricot and canary yellow as well as cream, chartreuse and white, whilst they range in stature from the 2 metre giants to the positively petite, at 50cm or so.

Kniphofia 'Percy's Pride' - one of the most truly green-flowered varieties.

The foliage too, can be bold and hugely architectural or slender and neat – almost grass-like in fact. Their inherent verticality is often used by garden designers to provide a counterpoint to lower plants, and they sit easily and comfortably in many borders. It helps, too, that the plants are extremely hardy and well-used to summer rain, although their native South African habitats also provide them with a dry winter dormancy, which means that good, sharp drainage is essential for long-term success in British gardens.

The delicate beauty of Kniphofia 'Vanilla' is a world away from the old image of the Red Hot Poker.

The best forms of Kniphofia are now rightly and widely championed with major flower shows readily extolling their virtues as they regularly sit amongst the most highly prized of all garden plants – the smaller, cooler coloured varieties, in particular are deemed to be seriously fashionable additions to any 2011 garden.

Kniphofia 'Ice Queen' - pale green flowers that open to near white.

So now, after such a roller-coaster ride on the whims of gardening fashion, the new and ever expanding diversity of forms, colours and uses of Kniphofia, coupled with their relative ease of growth in the garden, may just have finally secured these fascinating plants a permanent place in horticultural hearts.

Kniphofia 'Toffee Nosed' - with highly unusual copper-tipped cream flowers.


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Planting for Wildlife: The Wild Roses.

Thursday, June 16th, 2011

There can be few gardens across the land that don’t contain at least 1 or more roses. Whether they were planted by their current gardener or inherited along with the house and the rest of the original planting, our love affair with the rose has seen them proliferate across our gardens like few other varieties of plant. In many ways, though, they have become a victim of their own success – too ubiquitous and therefore too common to be in any way fashionable. The “modern rose” is also often a very man-made affair – all pumped-up in a powder-puff multitude of petals and a bewildering array of colour combinations – not the kind of thing that sits well with the trends for naturalistic planting and wild-looking plants.

Rosa rugosa, together with a feeding bumblebee.

The hybrid T also comes with some serious baggage – associations with disease (Blackspot in particular), aphids, annual pruning regimens and gaunt, bare, ugly looking bushes through winter. It’s fair to say that many Modern Roses cannot, in fact, be successfully cultivated without resorting to an armoury of defensive sprays and potions to fend off the worst of their many enemies. You could even say that they represent the worst excesses of old-style gardening as a kind of attack on nature, something to be tamed rather than celebrated in it’s wildness. But to tar all roses with that same brush would be a serious mistake.

Rosa canina - the small hips are both attractive and loaded with vitamins.

Rosa is a pretty large genus with over 100 species. Most of these are native to Asia, but, quite remarkably perhaps, some 20 different rose species grow wild in Britain. The majority of that number are made up of non-natives that have escaped from early attempts at cultivation and have naturalised themselves, and still others are varieties that differ only slightly from their species. We do, however, have 4 identifiably seperate native species of rose, all of which are quite charming and none of which suffer from any of the drawbacks associated with their over-blown modern hybrid relatives.

Rosa canina in flower.

Rosa canina (the Dog Rose) is probably everyone’s archetypal idea of a wild-rose. The best known of our native species, it’s a familiar sight in many hedgerows and banks where the slender stems scramble through the stronger supports of other shrubs. Like all of the wild roses the fragrant flowers are simple and single, and open flat to reveal a central boss of golden stamens surrounded by petals that vary in colour from pure white through to deep pink, but are most commonly seen in pale, apple-blossom pink. These flowers are followed by striking flask-shaped, bright vermillion-red fruits.

Rosa arvensis - smothered with summer flowers.

Rosa arvensis (the Field Rose) is a more vigorous climbing species that readily forms dense mounds of stems and foliage and is ideal for growing through a tree. In the wild the species is most usually found at woodland margins, as well as in older hedges, but it’s long been cultivated too and forms one of the essential elements of the traditional English Cottage Garden, which is never complete without it’s climbing rose around the front door. The flowers are invariably white and somewhat smaller than the Dog Rose. The fragrance is also less notable than in that species, but what they lack in individual prowess they make up for in abundance, with the plants becoming smothered in flowers throughout summer and equally numerous small, rounded, sealing-wax red fruit in autumn.

A Blue Tit samples the hips of Rosa arvenis deep in a snowbound winter.

Rosa rubiginosa (Sweet Briar) is a free-standing shrub, rather than a climber, and has thick stems clothed with a formidable armoury of thorns – hence the common name. The foliage is deliciously scented of apples and the beautifully formed flowers are clear-pink fading to a white centre and are also wonderfully, and famously fragrant. Once again, the flowering display is followed by an even brighter one as the teardrop-shaped red hips swell through the autumn. Sweet Briar makes an excellent and very dense hedge in it’s own right, and is readily grown, even in quite poor soils.

The distinctive fruit of Rosa rubiginosa.

The last of our native species, Rosa pimpinellifolia (Scotch Rose), is perhaps the least well-known, at least in it’s true, wild form, but is certainly my favourite of the four. It forms a small bush, commonly found growing wild amongst coastal sand dunes, and limestone pavements, but completely adaptable to virtually all garden conditions. The entire plant is more delicate than the preceding species; the foliage is very heavily divided giving an almost fern-like quality to the plant. The stems are extraordinarily bristly and the young foliage is bright red fading to deeper red with maturity, whilst the white flowers are small, but are borne in profusion throughout May and June when they perfume the air. The globular hips appear from mid-summer are deep purple eventually maturing to shining ebony-black.

Rosa pimpinellifolia.

Added to these four species I have to also single out one of the escapees, now very well established in the British countryside, namely Rosa rugosa, (Ramanas Rose). This is a medium-sized, free standing shrub, strong-growing and rather coarse in appearance, but invaluable in the garden in so many ways. The large flowers are typically dark pink, but the best form, ‘Alba’, has flowers of pure white with a contrasting golden centre. These are very powerfully and intoxicatingly fragrant, filling the air with a spicy warmth – truly outstanding. The plants flower continually for many months running from mid-spring right through to late autumn. As a result they never create a huge floral display but the enormously long flowering season is ready compensation. The hips mature to bright tomato-red and, indeed, are also shaped exactly like cherry tomatoes – highly decorative. Rosa rugosa makes a fantastic hedging plant either in it’s own right or mixed in with other native species.

The large, plump hips of Rosa rugosa alba.

All of these 5 roses are beloved by wildlife and make a near-essential edition to any wild or wildlife friendly garden. Those beautiful and fragrant flowers are visited by a large array of insects, butterflies, bees, moths, hoverflies, beetles and wasps. Bumble-bees in particular seem continually drawn to wild-rose flowers and readily gorge themselves on the plentiful pollen and nectar within. Rose hips are equally important sources of food, particularly since they are extremely long-lasting and often persist well into winter when many species of fruit eating birds, along with deer, rabbits, mice, squirrels and other winter foragers rely upon them for sustenance. Finally the bushy, vigorous, multi-branched and thorny nature of roses makes them perfect for nesting birds and small mammals who can readily create a secure and well-defended home in amongst the branches.

Rosa pimpinellifolia fruit, slowly ripening from deep red to black.


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Planting for Wildlife: Daisy, Daisy.

Thursday, June 9th, 2011

It’s no exaggeration to say that there is a crisis looming, or already in full swing, for many of our native insects. Something in the region of 70% of our native butterfly species are in steep decline and many of our bee species are now regarded as threatened, with the short-haired bumblebee having gone extinct in the last few years. Even one third of our native wasp species are now on the endangered list. All of these insect groups are vital for the ongoing health and well-being of the entire ecosystem of our countryside, and the reasons for their declines are not hard to pinpoint.

A Honeybee feeding upon an Ox-Eye Daisy.

Climate change is certainly a factor, as the seasons that species have evolved to exploit change their nature or become more unpredictable, but of far greater significance is the rise of intensive agriculture and the fragmentation or loss of wild habitats that has resulted. To put that in perspective, 97% of Britain’s wild-flower meadows have disappeared in the space of the last 70 years. When viewed from that stand-point it’s surprising that more of our native insects haven’t succumbed altogether, but part of the reason for their continued survival, and that of much of the rest of our native wildlife, is that many species have managed to transplant themselves into our gardens and the margins of habitats that might otherwise be thought of as wasteland.

One of my favourites - the Spotted Longhorn Beetle, a guaranteed visitor to a flowering patch of Ox-Eyes.

The enormous economic importance of pollinating insects is only just being appreciated. Without them virtually all of our arable agriculture would, overnight, simply cease to exist. The very nature of our landscape is also inexorably linked to the fate of it’s pollinating bees, butterflies, hoverflies, moths, beetles and wasps, and their continued survival is very much in our own hands.

The Buff-tailed Bumblebee is our most widespread species.

Alerted, as never before, to the alarming declines of insect species and their populations conservationists are becoming evangelical in their calls for us to plant more wildflowers. Food sources and living spaces are the two key areas that we, as gardeners, can readily provide for our our invertebrate neighbours, and both are served by planting wildflowers. Attempting to reverse that fragmentation of habitats, that I mentioned,  is particularly important, as insect populations can all too easily become trapped in an ever dwindling micro-niche that is both genetically unstable and highly vulnerable to climate or other physical changes.

A Heath Fritillary feeding on nectar.

The goal is to provide a network of linked wildlife corridors through which species can move and slowly expand their numbers and their range, and these corridors are created and defined by the planting of native wildflowers. Road verges, car-parks and railway tracks can all be pressed into valuable use, but the largest green area outside of farmland, and the one over which we collectively have the most control, of course, is that contained within our gardens. Each of our gardens can be thought of as a cell of the environment, and by keeping the habitat of our own “cell” happy and healthy then the whole organism will thrive, along with all of it’s wildlife diversity.

The Ox-Eye is unpretentious and naturally charming.

A good emblem for this wildflower resurgence must be the Ox-Eye Daisy - Leucanthemum vulgare. The specific name “vulgare” means common, and there’s something pleasingly unsophisticated and fundamentally natural about the look of this native wildflower that sums up the whole ethos pretty well, I think. The Ox-Eye thrives on roadside verges, poor soils and neglect. It’s the antithesis of formality, with it’s cheerful, but raggedy appearance, as the stems tumble over one another and present their flowers to the sun. Traditionally the species was a stalwart of natural wildflower meadows, and, where allowed, it is an early coloniser of meadow grassland and newly disturbed ground. The plants do equally well in a traditional English border, and can easily be incorporated into a wide variety of schemes and designs.

One of the many species of hoverfly that frequent the flowers.

Flowering more or less continuously from May through to early September the Ox-Eye is one of the quintessential British summer wildflowers. You can grow them in turf, and indeed it’s possibly to buy-in turf which already contains growing plants, and these will happily survive being mown along with the grasses, but to properly benefit your wildlife, they must be allowed to grow to their full size (around 60cm) and to flower, which they do prodigiously. You can readily raise your own Ox-Eyes from seed, which will generally flower the same year it’s sown, and is entirely undemanding in it’s requirements. The plants are perennial, but often rather short-lived, thriving best in sunny situations, which is also where they will be of most benefit to your insect population.

Common Malachite beetle, feeding on and smothered in pollen.

Ox-Eyes are adored and relied upon by a wide array of insects. Flower Beetles of many species, such as the jewel-like Malachite Beetle, will be attracted and nourished by the pollen the flowers produce, whilst the nectar is a guaranteed draw for a constellation of butterfly, day-flying moth, bee and hoverfly species. Where space and your garden conditions allow the plants will very readily self-seed, but if you need to limit their ambitions it’s easy enough to remove the spent flower heads and prevent them from multiplying.

A Green-Veined White Butterfly pays a visit.

So this is one area where we really can all make a difference, and we really can all do our bit –  sow some wildflower seed or plant some plugs, and bring swathes of meadow flowers back to life in our own back yard. In so doing we’ll be helping to maintain the health of our own garden, and that of it’s wildlife inhabitants, as well as contributing to the whole network of wildflower habitats throughout the land.

The magnificent Emerald Flower Scarab seated on his pollen meal.


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Planting for Wildlife: The Guelder Rose.

Thursday, June 2nd, 2011

Wandering through the garden recently on a hot, sunny morning I was drawn to one shrub because of the sound emanating from it…once I arrived I found the entire plant was covered with bees – wild honeybees, masonry bees, leaf-cutter bees and other solitary species – together with hoverflies of half-a-dozen different species. Even some pollen-eating horned-beetles had flown in to join the scrum, and there must have been getting on for a thousand individual insects all feeding together on one plant.

The shrub in question was a Viburnum dentatum, and the big draw for all the many insects were the flowers, many hundreds of which were covering the plant, each one laden with pollen. Our garden teems with wildlife at most times, but I was particularly pleased to think that just one individual plant was providing to much sustenance to so many wonderful insects and their various hungry broods back in their respective nests.

Viburnum dentatum is a North American species, and not necessarily one of the most ornamental of this strikingly handsome genus. Over in our hedgerows, though, both of the native species of Viburnum – V. lantana – aka the Wayfaring Tree – and V. opulus, the Guelder Rose – are doing their thing. The plants of Viburnum opulus that grow wild around the margins of the garden are all interwoven into the hedgerows and so get cut back pretty hard every couple of years, which certainly doesn’t do much for their flowering display, but where they do flower these too are smothered with feeding insects feasting on the bounty of pollen.

Viburnum opulus in full flower - a major insect magnet.

Viburnum opulus is one of our most attractive and versatile native shrubs. Not fussy as to soil type, the plants tolerate dry, infertile soils but particularly thrive in wet or boggy soils where, aside from huge trees, relatively few other native woody plants will succeed. Our largest pond is bordered by soil that was, at least in part, formed by the spoil from its excavation – rich but very heavy clay. The area also periodically floods from the river and is subject to continual leaching of water from the body of the pond.

We originally planted this mini-zone with a variety of selections of Acer palmatum, with their traditional association with water, but the continually wet soil has proven too much for these Maples, all of which failed to thrive and were moved to another part of the garden this last winter.  This pond-margin has now been replanted with a group of different cultivars of Viburnum opulus which have already produced great growth and seem to be positively relishing their semi-boggy new homes. The future display of flowers, all interweaving from the different varieties, should prove to be an even bigger insect magnet than their American cousin Viburnum detatum over on the other side of the garden.

Viburnum opulus - the wild form.

Viburnum are closely related to Hydrangea, and the flowers of V. opulus are amongst the finest in the whole genus, closely resembling those of a Lacecap Hydrangea. The common name ‘Guelder Rose’ is one of those widespread, but not very useful or accurate labels that sometimes get attached to plants, this time stemming from the introduction of one very well known form of the species – V. opulus ‘Roseum’, widely known as the Snowball Tree. This very popular cultivar was believed to have been found in the Dutch region of Guelderland, hence the name, but, from a wildlife perspective, the Snowball tree should be avoided entirely. Those large balls of flowers are completely sterile – so no pollen is produced at all, not much good for hungry bees and hoverflies.

The flowers of Viburnum opulus 'Roseum' are big and blowsy, but not much good for hungry wildlife.

Being sterile ‘Roseum’ also fails to set fruit, which brings me to another great attribute of the species. Once the flowers have fallen away the plants produce heavy clusters of cranberry-like, glistening bright-red fruits. These are absolutely beautiful to behold, particularly on the varieties with contrasting leaf colour (more of which in a moment…) but, as might be imagined, they are also highly valuable to birds busily feeding-up for the coming winter. The Thrush family are particularly fond of these fruits, and blackbirds, mistle thrushes, fieldfares and redwings will all go out of their way to visit and feed upon a fruiting bush. Woodmice and field mice are also fans of the fruit and have been known to scale the shrubs in search of a meal.

Big clusters of fruit bring in the birds (and the mice).

From an ornamental perspective – pretty important for any large shrub if it’s is going to deserve a space in most gardens, after all – the flower and the fruit are followed by another top feature, namely autumn colour. The foliage of most varieties turns to a range of colours from deep purple-burgundy to bright crimson and orange, depending on the temperatures, and is especially vivid when the plants are grown in full sun. A plant of Viburnum opulus in full autumn colour, and at the same time laden with it’s bright fruits, is pretty hard to top when it comes to seasonal finery, and all this from a common and easily grown British native.

Viburnum opulus, in autumn foliage.

Besides the aforementioned ‘Roseum’ there are surprisingly few named forms of the species, but those that do exist are generally all well worth growing. ‘Aureum’ is an old, golden-leafed cultivar that tends to burn when grown in full sun. It’s now been superseded by the much more weather-proof ‘Park Harvest’ which, come early autumn, combines it’s intensely yellow leaves with vivid red fruit – quite a spectacle.

Viburnum opulus 'Park Harvest' - the new golden foliage lined with red.

‘Xanthocarpum’ and the newly selected ‘Apricot’ have yellow and pink-ish gold fruit respectively, whilst ‘Notcutt’s Variety’ has larger flowers and fruits. Perhaps most useful of all is ‘Compactum’, a very free-flowering and strong fruiting cultivar that forms a dense and compact shrub, ultimately much smaller than the wild form, and so more readily accommodated in smaller gardens.

Viburnum opulus 'Xanthocarpum'.


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Planting for Wildlife: Honeysuckle.

Thursday, May 26th, 2011

As late Spring merges into Summer many of the hedges that border our garden here in North Devon are festooned with the most beautifully scented pink & yellow Honeysuckle. This is not something that we have planted, but instead forms a natural part of the woven fabric of the ancient hedges – our native species of this glamorous clan, Lonicera periclymenum, a plant without equal in terms of floral perfume, and also an essential element in the composition of any wildlife-friendly garden.

Lonicera 'Sweet Sue'.

L. periclymenum is a vigorous, scrambling climber, native to woodland margins and hedgerows throughout the land. The species bears large, open clusters of flowers, each comprised of greatly elongated tubes, typically red or pink on their exterior and creamy yellow within. These flower tubes flare open and re-curve back onto themselves, lending the flowers their highly exotic and intricately beautiful appearance. In truth, though, the Honeysuckle is another of those near bomb-proof native plants that will thrive in a range of garden situations without a great deal of attention or fuss. They can readily be trained over a fence or through a tree or companion shrub, and of course can easily be planted and left to develop in their natural habitat of the hedgerow.

Lonicera 'Munster'.

The species will grow in shade, although it certainly flowers better with at least a few hours of sun, but it is also highly tolerant of dry, and nutrient poor soils. The plant climbs not with arial roots or tendrils, but merely by the actions of the growing stems that have a powerfully twining, circular, clockwise momentum. This habit produced the old common English name for the plant: Woodbine – a reference to the “binding” effect that the twining stems can have on their tree hosts. A stroll through Honeysuckle woodlands will quickly reveal an array of curiously twisted and contorted tree branches, all of which will have been moulded and sculpted over time by their Honeysuckle neighbours.

The twining stems of a Honeysuckle, clambering above and below the now twisted branch of it's host tree.

Those wonderfully scented flowers first appear in late May but the season continues throughout summer, with the perfume intensifying greatly in the evening, a clue to the intended audience for the flowers. Honeysuckle blossoms are visited by bees and hoverflies, but their greatly elongated flowers are difficult for these insects to access and the nectar tubes have instead evolved to benefit an entirely different group of pollinators – the moths.  Many species of moth will visit a flowering Honeysuckle over the course of a night, feeding upon the copious nectar, and pollinating the flowers as they go. The spectacular Hawk-moths, in particular, with their greatly elongated tongues, have just the right feeding apparatus to get to the base of the flowers. All of the moth action in turn attracts bats, and an entire nocturnal mini food-chain in born.

An Elephant Hawk Moth pays a night visit to a Honeysuckle flower.

Honeysuckle flowers are only one of the many assets that the plants provide to wildlife.  The leaves are the larval foodplant for an array of Lepidoptera, most famously the majestic and all-too rare White Admiral Butterfly, but also many smaller moth species too.  In early autumn the flowers give way to bright scarlet, waxy berries, and these are a favourite of bullfinches, thrushes and a variety of  species of warbler. Honeysuckle bark is also targeted, both by birds, including Sparrows, blackbirds and pied flycatchers, as well as by dormice, all of whom use the soft, flaking, peeling bark strips to line their respective nests.

Lonicera berries.

On top of that the plant itself, once mature, creates a very dense tangle of often impenetrable, inter-woven stems which make the perfect, fully protected nesting site for an array of small birds. Sparrows, robins, blackbirds and all manner of tits will invariably make use of a Honeysuckle plant in the garden, and even outside of the breeding season the dense cover the plants provide will make a ideal sheltered roost for many of the same species. Periodic hard pruning will encourage the plants to become extra bushy and maximise the protection that they can offer to garden birds.

Those delicate, flaring, nectar-bearing flower tubes, in close-up.

Not surprisingly for such a widely cultivated and much loved native plant, a variety of forms have been selected and named over the years. The habit, foliage and vigour is pretty consistent throughout the cultivars that are available for the gardener, but the flower colours and sizes do offer a subtle range of options. The best known, and certainly the longest established are ‘Belgica’, an old Dutch selection that has been grown since the 17th Century that has red-purple flowers that fade to yellow-cream, produced early in the season, and ‘Serotina’, a much more recent selection that extends the flowering season into October.

Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina'.

L. periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’ is another very widely grown cultivar, this time originating in Warwickshire where the original plant was found growing wild in the 1960′s. It produces flowers that are nearly pure white in bud, opening to butter yellow. ‘Munster’ goes in the other direction, with rose pink buds that open to white with pink streaks on the tube and the reverse of the flower lobes.

Lonicera 'Graham Thomas'.

Two of the very best forms are also amongst the most recently introduced. ‘Sweet Sue’, was found and named by the famous plantsman Roy Lancaster to honour his wife; the plant has exceptionally fragrant and very large flowers of creamy white, ageing to soft yellow, whilst ‘Heaven Scent’ has equally large and equally fragrant flowers of deep cream that open to pale gold.

Lonicera 'Heaven Scent'.


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Planting for Wildlife: Foxgloves.

Thursday, May 19th, 2011

All planted gardens, no matter how modest in scale, and no matter their style are beneficial to wildlife. With the increase of industrial scale farming through the last part of the 20th Century, many species of bird, mammal and invertebrate have come to rely upon our gardens and use them as a refuge or even as their permanent home. The combination of habitat, food-source and breeding location makes the garden an obvious and invaluable sanctuary for wildlife, but, of course, some gardens are more useful than thers when it comes to providing for the needs of wildlife.

The common, wild form of our native Foxglove.

Lots of recent research has underlined the importance of native plants in attracting and then maintaining populations of wildlife in the garden. This is hardly a great surprise, as virtually all our our native flora and fauna have evolved together and a host of different inter-dependent relationships have emerged as a result. Taking this to it’s ultimate conclusion you could argue, as many do, that the ultimate wildlife garden would contain only native plant species, and in so doing would replicate a little patch of habitat that has been lost from the open countryside.

That’s all well and good in theory, but in practice only the most dedicated, or those with the most garden space to spare, are likely to head down the all-native route when planting out their plot. But what almost every gardener certainly can do is to integrate some native plants into their garden schemes. The British flora is well known for having been greatly impoverished by the last ice age, and it’s true that we can’t get close to the variety or numbers of species found at similar latitudes in Asia or North America; still, a little investigation will turn up a really quite remarkable array of highly appealing species that will sit comfortably in any ornamental garden whilst giving the local wildlife the opportunity to benefit at the same time.

The soft pink of Digitalis purpurea 'Suttons Apricot'.

A good case in point is our native Foxglove – Digitalis purpurea. Foxgloves are so familiar, so commonplace both in the landscape and in our flower-memories, that it’s easy to take them for granted and ignore their great appeal. In this case, though, commonplace certainly doesn’t mean dull or unworthy of garden space. If you stop and take the time to really look at a foxglove in full flowering glory you could easily imagine that you’re looking at some exotic, tropical hot-house plant, rather than a vigorous and ultra-tough wildflower.

Digitalis purpurea Excelsior Group.

Digitalis is a small, but highly ornamental genus of herbaceous plants, pretty much all of which are endemic to Europe. D. purpurea is the only truly British native species, (although a few others have escaped from gardens are form localised populations in the wild) but rather handily, it is also the largest-flowered, and most easily grown of the group. The species is very easily grown from seed, which germinates rapidly (a week to 10 days is the norm) with no special treatment. The plants are generally biennial, meaning that the first year is spent bulking up and the second flowering, after which they die, leaving copious seed behind. If you grow them in a semi-natural area or bed, then they will invariably self-seed and quickly provide an ongoing succession of generations to grow and flower. Alternatively it’s easy to collect some seed and sow in a pot or seedtray the following Spring. In the wild they often colonise disturbed ground and woodland edges, but in the garden they will do just as well in full sun or semi shade in a regular herbaceous bed.

A wild stand of Digitalis purpurea.

Foxgloves have an exceptional reputation for attracting certain kinds of wildlife. They don’t bring in birds or butterflies, but they are absolutely unrivalled attractors of one of our most important and most threatened groups of insects, namely bumblebees. You only have to look at a Bumblebee feeding at a Foxglove to see how obviously and closely the two have co-evolved, each benefiting the other. The foxglove flower fits the bumblebee like a glove, and indeed, so specific is the match that few other insects are able to access it’s resources at all. For the flower the bumblebee brings a reliable and dedicated pollinator, whilst for the bee the Foxglove provides a feast of both nectar and pollen, which they feed to their larvae.

A White-tailed Bumblebee coming into land on a Foxglove flower.

Each individual flower is spotted and lined to our eyes, and much more vividly so to a Bumblebee, whose vision, like that of all insects, operates primarily in the ultra-violet spectrum. These patterns have evolved to precisely guide the bees onto the landing strips of the flowers, and then up into the bells to where the nectar and pollen lie.  The flowers even have an array of hairs on their lower surface to help the heavy insects get a secure grip as they do their work.

A Foxglove flower in close-up, with the guide spots and hairs for the benefit of the bees.

Wild populations of Digitalis purpurea are almost invariably rosy red/purple in flower, and show relatively little variance. However their very long history in cultivation has, over time, lead to the selection of  a number of other colour forms. D. purpurea f. albiflora is an exceedingly beautiful and very well-known form with pure white flowers.

The elegant, cool white of Digitalis purpurea f. albiflora

Digitalis purpurea 'Sutton's Primrose'.

‘Sutton’s Apricot’ is a soft, flesh-pink whilst ‘Sutton’s Giant Primrose’  extends into deep nearly-yellow-cream. Many other forms, such as the Excelsior Group, have also been selected for increased spotting or heavy blotching on the flowers, which reaches an extreme in ‘Pam’s Choice’ and the Giant Spotted Group. All of these are seed grown and so the flowers of each individual plant do vary somewhat, within the general limits of the group, but all are highly worthwhile and can provide essential drama for you and a lifeline for your equally fascinating and beautiful garden residents, the Bumblebees.

Digitalis purpurea 'Pam's Choice'.


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Summer Flowering Magnolias.

Thursday, May 5th, 2011

Magnolias hold a very special place in my heart. It was the fluttering Lotus-like petals of my parents Magnolia stellata that were partly responsible for my fascination with plants in the first place. Their shape, size and clean simplicity seemed somehow more extraordinary than most other garden plants. This introduction to the genus – at the tender age of maybe 6-ish – was the jumping off point for a lifelong relationship with these most magnificent of temperate flowering trees.

Magnolia sieboldii - pink stamen form.

I have blogged before about some of the newer hybrids and colour forms of Magnolia, but this is a huge and diverse genus and there is another, very different sub-section of Magnolias that opens the plants up to more gardens and gardeners than might traditionally be imagined. Magnolias, as a whole, are quite rightly thought of as large, and generally tree-like in size. Even the smallest of the well known species (such as good old M. stellata) eventually become quite enormous in girth, if not in height. Magnolias are also known for preferring acid soil. This is not entirely accurate, and almost all will do perfectly well on a neutral soil, particularly one that is nutrient rich, as is the case with most clay-based soils, for instance, but alkaline soils are generally seen as a no-go area for the plants.

The group that I want to highlight don’t conform to either of those stereotypes, however. They are most definitely shrubby and rarely if ever grow on a single trunk, which in turn makes them much easier to accommodate in smaller gardens. What’s more they are known to be highly tolerant of even quite alkaline, chalky soils, and are amongst the best of all shrubs for use in such gardens where other luxuriant Himalayan/Chinese shrubs can often be all but impossible to grow.

Magnolia wilsonii.

Another handy thing about these plants is that they flower well after the “normal” Magnolia season. Strictly speaking there is no one Magnolia season, and, in fact the genus contains species, that together, can be in flower pretty much 365 days of the year. Still, it’s fair to say that most gardeners associate Magnolias with Spring…and with Spring come frosts, and with frosts come mushy flowers and disappointed gardeners. These summer flowering species completely bypass all of that potential heartbreak and their flowers are never affected by frosts in any way.

The horizontal flowers of Magnolia sieboldii.

The most primitive of all Magnolias – and indeed the most ancient of all flowering plants alive today – are summer bloomers too. Species including Magnolia obovata, M. fraseri, M. officinalis, M. macrophylla and M. tripetala are all spectacular and wonderfully Jurassic in appearance when their gigantic flowers open, but these are huge trees, and completely unsuitable for all but the most park-like of gardens.

Super-primitive, the giant blooms of Magnolia obovata.

Flowering along side them, from early May through to mid summer, are a small gaggle of 4 species, all of which are closely related to one another. Magnolia sieboldii is the best known, and perhaps the template for these shrubby, summer-flowering species.  A native of Japan, Korea and China it slowly grows to form a large bush that flowers from a very young age and small size….and what flowers they are too! Cup-shaped, horizontal or gently nodding, around 15cm (6 inches) in size, and pure white with a central boss of stamens in a contrasting colour – typically pinkish red, but deep burgundy in the best forms. Lacking the blowsy-showiness of the more familiar Spring flowering Magnolias these are a different proposition, and, together with their gentle fragrance their blooms are, with good reason, regarded amongst the most perfectly formed of all flowers.

Magnolia sieboldii

The Chinese native Magnolia sinensis is the closest relative to M. sieboldii, indeed some botanists lump the two together into the same species, but it is distinct in habit at least, and stands as the largest growing of the four. The flowers are also fully pendulous – wonderful viewed from below and perfect for planting on a steep slope. M. sinensis regularly sets seed in this country too, and this adds a whole further ornamental aspect to the plants, since the seed is held in dangling, bright scarlet seedpods that look extra vivid contrasted against the deep green foliage.

Those burgundy stamens in close-up.

Magnolia wilsonii seedpod.

Magnolia wilsonii is another Chinese species. In my experience it’s the best of the group for the production of seed pods, and each year the plants are fully laden with the fat, cone-like red pods. M. wilsonii also regularly re-flowers throughout summer and even into autumn, and tops all of this off with a decent display of autumn leaf colour when the foliage turns to butter yellow – one of the few Magnolias to do so.

The last of the small group is also the rarest both in cultivation and in the wild. Magnolia globosa is native to Yunnan, in South-West China, and also to Nepal. This Nepalese population has produced the best, and hardiest plants for the garden, and grows without any problems in our rather exposed and frost-prone garden. The flowers of this species don’t open fully, which lends the plant it’s specific name “globosa” as well as it’s Nepalese common name of “Hen Magnolia”, after the very egg-like buds that adorn the branches from May through June to July.

A brand new, as yet un-named hybrid of M. sieboldii and the pink-flowered M. insignis.

Although they are not pollen-compatible with most of the other Magnolias these four species have been used in hybridisation programmes with a few of the larger Asian species, and the gorgeous naturally occurring hybrid Magnolia x wieseneri is by far the best known, and most readily available of the their offspring. This has flowers that resemble it’s parent M. sieboldii, but they are larger, more widely opening, and much more intensely fragrant. This fragrance caused a complete sensation when the plant was first exhibited at the Paris Exposition of 1889, and continues to cause devotees to froth at the mouth at the mere mention of it’s name to this day.

Magnolia x wieseneri, with it's large, upwards facing and intensely perfumed flowers.


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Light at the End of the Tunnel!

Tuesday, January 11th, 2011

I can see and feel the first signs of Spring!  My husband always comments after the shortest day in December that we are over the worst, Summer is on the way and the days will be getting longer, and yesterday I saw this with my own eyes.  My beautiful snow drops are in bloom, bulbs are starting to send out green shoots which probably means weeds will start growing again too!

Sadly, during the extreme cold snap we lost one of our chickens, Siennna (Miller), due to a very nasty illness which luckily didn’t spread to the other four chooks.  Egg production has been greatly reduced for the last 6 weeks, and I have had to buy eggs from time to time from the local farm-shop.  When chickens moult and also when it is so very cold, the chooks have to preserve themselves to keep warm, and grow new feathers, so their body very cleverly stops manufacturing eggs …  nature never fails to amaze me.  Anyway, on Friday I phoned up my chicken man, to check if he had any chooks available, and fortunately he did.  So I popped over to his farm with an empty Ocado crate and collected two new birds …  Versace and Mildred!  Mildred is very similar in colouring to Matilda, so seems to have been accepted by the others readily, however they have taken a dislike to poor Versace and are pecking her and bullying her, but I have been assured that this is quite normal, and this is where the term ‘Pecking Order’ comes from.

My vegetable patch is looking a bit sad at the moment, with just a few leeks and parsnips left to harvest.  My red chard suffered from it’s covering of snow for about 3 weeks, so it is nearly time to plough up the soil and add some manure in preparation for this years crops.

We continue to feed the birds with high energy bird nuts daily.  However, I am struggling to feed my own family at the moment thanks to a shortage of LPG Gas in Southern England, and the backlog of deliveries due to snow.  I have turned off my Aga and will probably have to turn off the heating by the end of the week if my delivery is not made …  oh how I wish I lived with mains gas!  So today I am not inspired to cook and hopefully will add a recipe next time.


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Autumn Harvest

Thursday, September 30th, 2010

I love this time of year watching the autumn colours develop in the garden, and also on the occasional day feeling the last rays of heat from the fading sun.  My garden is looking quite healthy at the moment thanks to the regular supply of rain, and the grass is probably looking better than it has all Summer, possibly due to its recent helping of Organic Lawn Feed which has  added beneficial micro-organisms to the lawn that invigorate grass.

My Rhubarb is coming to an end, and I had heard that you shouldn’t harvest rhubarb after August because it is poisonous, although after doing some online research I am beginning to suspect that this could be an old wives tale?  Anyway, fortunate for me, I had some early rhubarb stashed in the freezer, and on the basis my family prefer apple and blackberry crumble at the moment, I decided to make rhubarb and date chutney and this is the recipe I used …. 

  • 50g fresh root ginger , grated
  • 300ml red wine vinegar
  • 500g eating apples , peeled and finely chopped
  • 200g pitted dates, chopped
  • 200g dried cranberries or raisins
  • 1 tbsp mustard seeds
  • 1 tbsp curry powder
  • 400g light muscovado sugar
  • 700g rhubarb , sliced into 2cm chunks
  • 500g red onions

  

  1. Put the onions in a large pan with the ginger and vinegar. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 mins. Add the rest of the ingredients, except the rhubarb, plus 2 tsp salt to the pan and bring to the boil, stirring. Simmer, uncovered, for about 10 mins until the apples are tender.
  2. Stir in the rhubarb and cook, uncovered, until the chutney is thick and jammy, about 15-20 mins. Leave the chutney to sit for about 10-15 mins, then spoon into warm, clean jars, and seal. Label the jars when cool. Keep for at least a month before eating.

 

I had a taste before it got sealed away in the jars, and it is delicious  …  have given some away, but I must save some for us!

Earlier this week I harvested my pumpkins, and have put them in a hessian sack and hung them up in my potting shed to ensure the mice can’t get them before Halloween!  I also picked all the pears, which will not ripen on the trees, and I am now searching for recipes to use them when they have started to ripen.

On Sunday we had the first batch of leeks from the vegetable patch with our roast pork, accompanied by my own grown roast potatoes and apple sauce .. my kids get fed up of me pointing out the organic nature of our meal but at least my husband acts suitably impressed!

I enjoyed watching Alan Titchmarsh interviewing Prince Charles at Highrove house last week.  The Highgrove estate has become synonymous with all things organic, and Alan finds out from Head Gardener Debs Goodenough and her team what inspired the beliefs of the most hands-on royal gardener in history.  Catch it on BBC iPlayer if you missed it but it was truly inspirational, but it will only be viewable for the next 5 days.

Anyway,  just off to make some scones to go with my homemade raspberry jam for my youngest daughter to eat when she returns from school  … I shall no doubt remind her about the organic nature of the jam!


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