News Tagged ‘Greenhouses’

From one extreme to the other!

Wednesday, May 26th, 2010

Last time I was complaining about the frost scorching my pumpkin seedlings, and this time I am going to mention that the extremely hot sun this week has made my vegetable patch almost dessert like!  What I would really like now, and I am sure many other gardeners would agree, is some rain to hydrate my seedlings automatically!  Anyway,  earlier this week I served up a salad made from my homegrown lettuce and rocket with some spring onions that I planted from seed in the Autumn.  I thought I would  astonish my teenage daughters and their friends with my organic offerings, but sadly this generation are not easily impressed!  I still get enormous pleasure from growing my own fruit and vegetables and providing this nourishment for my family  …  I hope that when they are grown up they may be inspired too!

The weeds are sprouting at a great rate with these perfect growing conditions …  I have been hoeing regularly and although I have been taking great care around the seedlings, I have  reapplied some Slug and Snail Deterrent   around my lettuce plants to ensure there are no gaps allowing access to the slugs.  I have also applied the Slug and Snail Deterrent around the bases of my hostas that have, as if by magic, reappeared  in my tubs.

Now that the weather seems set to stay warm, I have been busy planting up some hanging baskets and tubs ….  my father-in-law very kindly shared with me some beautiful plants including Geraniums,  Bizzy Lizzie’s and Petunias that he has been nurturing in his greenhouses.  I am also experimenting with a hanging basket with tomatoes this year too, and have just given it the first feed of EcoCharlie Tomato Feed

 

And as for my hens ….  well they love this sunny weather, and have been laying consistently well …  in fact now is the time of year I make meringues and lemon curd with the left over egg yolks  ….   I have made one batch already, and will be making more this weekend.  This is the recipe I use for the Lemon Curd

 

LEMON CURD

Makes 2 small jam jars
zest and juice of 4 unwaxed lemons
200g sugar
100g butter
3 eggs and 1 egg yolk

Put the lemon zest and juice, the sugar and the butter, cut into cubes, into a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, making sure that the bottom of the basin doesn’t touch the water. Stir with a whisk from time to time until the butter has melted.

Mix the eggs and egg yolk lightly with a fork, then stir into the lemon mixture. Let the curd cook, stirring regularly, for about 10 minutes, until it is thick and custard-like. It should feel heavy on the whisk.

Remove from the heat and stir occasionally as it cools. Pour into spotlessly clean jars and seal. It will keep for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator.

I have been using the automatic plant watering system for my indoor conservatory houseplants, and my final job for today is to go and top up the bottles with water on the Aquadrip spikes ….


Greenhouse vegetables.

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

With temperatures rising and summer just around the corner the unheated greenhouse can really start to earn it’s keep. Whilst there are a huge range of vegetables that thrive outdoors in our climate, there are also a select few that really do need the protection of glass in order to give their best.

Tomatoes.

The most obvious and perhaps even traditional of these are undoubtedly tomatoes. There are now a vast array of varieties and types of tomatoes available for the home grower, some of which can be successfully cropped outdoors if the weather is kind. Down here in “sunny” Devon the last two summers of eternal wetness have well and truly put paid to any attempts to produce outdoor tomato crops, with most plants succumbing to blight and weather-related fungal attacks  long before they were able to set fruit.

For those plants grown under glass, though, the outcome was much happier, and although 2008/2009 will certainly not go down in any veg growers record book some decent crops were eventually produced despite the cold temperatures and general lack of anything resembling a traditional summer.

Tomato variety Sunbaby.

The upright, cordon tomato varieties such as ‘Sunbaby’ and ‘Shirley’ should be selected for greenhouse use. Seeds should be sown in mid-March, with the subsequent seedlings being ready to transplant in mid-May. There are also many outlets for young plug and seedling plants which will perform equally admirably and which allow you to catch up if you didn’t have a chance to start from seed earlier in Spring.

Transplant seedlings into 12 inch pots with a rich, free draining compost, and make sure to include a tall cane or other support for each of the plants. Given a little care, plus lots of water and tomato feed, the extra heat afforded the plants under glass will produce much higher yields of fruit, with much better ripening than would be the case outdoors.

Cucumbers.

The range of cucumbers for home growing has expanded considerably in recent years with the arrival of a range of easily obtainable F1 hybrid varieties (such as ‘Fernspot F1′) that are easily grown and produce consistently good results.

Cucumber plants tend to be rather fragile under the weight of the heavy fruit, but should be carefully supported on canes.

Care is pretty much as for tomato plants, with seeds sown in March and seedlings or plugs transplanted into 12 inch pots in mid-May.

The wild plants from which cucumbers have been developed are trailing, rather than climbing, but the fruit ripens far more successfully with good access to light and air, so plants should be supported with canes or tied into wires that run along the length of the greenhouse.

Once the first half-dozen leaves have appeared on the young plants the growing tip should be pinched out to encourage the production of several growing shoots.

Cucumber plants are only weakly twining at best and obviously carry very heavy fruit, so it’s particularly important that these developing shoots are carefully tied in to their supports to keep them upright and stable. Plants should be kept well watered and a rich tomato-type feed given every two weeks.

Aubergines.

Far less commonly grown in this country, aubergines, like tomatoes, are South American members of the nightshade family that most definitely need the extra heat and protection from wind that a greenhouse can provide. As with cucumbers, much work has been done to develop varieties that can be easily grown at home, and very heavy fruiting varieties like ‘Moneymaker’ make for easy and extremely rewarding  greenhouse crops. The plants are also very attractive, not just for the rather spectacular fruit, but also the for the foliage and large purple flowers.

Aubergines - highly decorative, highly tasty.

Aubergines should be sown indoors or under heat in March or in an unheated greenhouse in April. Once they have produced four leaves – any time from mid-May to mid-June, depending on when they were started – they can be pricked out and transplanted into 9 inch pots, together with the same staking/support as for tomatoes and cucumbers.

Plants should not be allowed to develop lots of small fruits or none will be able to ripen properly. Each plant is capable or maturing anywhere from three to six fruit in a growing season – depending on how warm and sunny the summer turns out to be - so pinch out any weak or poorly developed fruit-lets to let the plants divert energy into a few really good ones instead. Lots of water and regular supplies of tomato feed will, once again, ensure the best crops.

Capsicum.

Saving the best to last, we come to the real hot-house gems, the Capsicums or peppers. Until fairly recently hardly anyone grew these South-American beauties in their home greenhouses in this country, but now they are very much the “vegetable de jour” and plug plants are almost as readily available as tomatoes and cucumbers.

Capsicum Sunrise.

Capsicum plants are somewhat more tender than toms, cus and aubergines, particularly when first germinated. Seed should only be sown under glass when temperatures are remaining consistently above 12C, and the seedlings (or bought-in plugs) transplanted into 8 inch pots once they have developed three of four true leaves.

Capsicum are not true climbing plants, but, rather like cucumbers, they certainly do require additional support of a short cane etc., in order to successfully bear their large fruit. The plants should be shaded from mid-day sun and kept slightly on the dry side, without actually ever quite drying out completely. A half-strength tomato feed should be applied every two weeks once the plants are growing strongly.

Capsicum Tequila.

There are now a wide array of Capsicum varieties available to the gardener, from the sweet bell peppers that start out green and ripen to yellow, orange, red or black/purple (like the fabulous ‘Tequila’), to the smaller, much hotter chillies than all turn scarlet upon ripening – they are all part of the same Mexican species: Capsicum annuum.

Aside from the obvious culinary uses Capsicum are such beautiful fruiting plants that you’ll be continually admiring their progress. Personally I can’t think of any more rewarding use for your greenhouse space this summer.


Planning for a greenhouse.

Monday, April 12th, 2010

Practical and functional, no garden should be without a greenhouse.

Installing a greenhouse is one of those pivotal moments for any gardener. Having a covered area in the garden, be it a conservatory, porch or even a cloche or cold frame, greatly enhances the scope of what you can grow and when, but once you have a greenhouse you’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.

Greenhouses create longer growing seasons, provide protection, warmth and additional humidity for their leafy occupants. They allow you to grow entire ranges of plants, both edible and ornamental, that wouldn’t otherwise be possible.

Seeds can be sown much earlier and bulbs and containers started safely into growth in late winter or early spring. Perhaps most important of all, greenhouses also provide a sheltered, dry and wind-proofed working environment which will work wonders to encourage you out into the garden on otherwise grey, cold and uninviting days.

Site.

A wooden potting table - essential greenhouse kit.

Generally speaking you might have only limited possible sites available in your garden, or quite possibly no choice whatsoever as to where to situate a greenhouse. There is a temptation to locate them as you would a shed – i.e. tucked away out of site in an unused and probably uncultivatable corner of the garden.
Unless you’re planning to house a specialist fern collection in your greenhouse, this kind of location is really not going to work. Another common mistake is to situate with the longest side facing due south into the sun. This will create unfeasibly high summer temperatures and you may end up oven-baking all your plants as a result; at best you will be continually struggling to keep ventilation and humidity high enough and may end up having to shade the entire greenhouse in an effort to keep things stable.

Where possible the very best site will have the longest sides of the greenhouse facing east and west, the door/ventilation end facing south and the northern end against the protection of a wall, hedge of fence.

Choice of greenhouse.

A typical flat-pack aluminium greenhouse.

The best value greenhouses are those that come flat packed for self-assembly. If you have the patience and (ideally) a couple of willing helpers on hand then these aluminium and glass constructions are extremely good value and can provide an ideal solution.

Go for the very largest size that you can afford and can accommodate. You may not think that you’ll fill up all that space, but believe me, no matter how large your greenhouse you will soon find yourself wishing you could squeeze in a little more.

Also the larger the enclosed space the more stable the humidity, temperature and environment within, and the less susceptible it will be to heat loss overnight and over-heating during the day.

Finally, ventilation is an absolutely part of any greenhouse so make sure that yours has as much as is available, preferably allowing for a cross flow of air from end to end and/or side to side of the structure.

Access to services.

In order to make the most of your greenhouse you will need access to electricity and a water supply. Once you have a collection of plants under glass you will want to ensure they don’t get hammered by extremes of cold, and, depending on what you are growing, you may also need to guarantee a frost free environment year round.

A water butt set up to collect run-off from the greenhouse roof.

There are a variety of gas heaters available, but they can be tricky to run and expensive to buy. The best of them also need to be installed by a qualified engineer, and might end up costing more than the greenhouse itself. Having power available in your greenhouse will allow for cheap and easy low level heating if and when it’s needed and of course will also allow you to add a light for those dark winter days.

Access to water is even more important, since you’re going to be using this, quite possibly on a daily basis, for a large portion of the year. Consider installing a tap or at least running a dedicated hose to the greenhouse, and most definitely install a water butt to capture the rain that falls on the large glass surface of your greenhouse. Using captured rainwater not only makes good environmental and economic sense but is also far better for all plants, and absolutely essential for the likes of Orchids & carnivorous plants as well as many seedlings.

Think also about your own access to and from the greenhouse and consider adding some additional paving or gravel in order to keep the entrance clean and prevent mud being traipsed in from a soggy wet garden.

Cleanliness.

All of the warm, humid & sheltered conditions that allow for great plant growth will also create an outstanding breeding ground for fungi, bacteria and plant viruses, not to mention weeds and a whole gaggle of flying insect pests. Keep work surfaces, glass and flooring clean, tidy and hygienic and you will greatly reduce the opportunities for any of these nasties to gain a foothold.

Greenhouses are not garden sheds and should not be used as dumping grounds for all the things that you want to tidy away – the transparent sides should put the kibosh on that idea anyhow, since everything inside is effectively still on display.

Equipping a greenhouse.

There are a few useful bits of kit that you should have lined up ready for your new glassy space. Top of the list is a solid, steady work surface set at a height comfortable for you to work with and strong enough to hold pots, compost and whatever else you’re likely to need. Consider using a table and perching seat – they don’t take up much room and make can make working conditions far more comfortable.

Working tray.

A large, shallow sided tray is also pretty essential. This will allow you to do a whole range of gardening tasks – mix composts, pot up plants, turn out old pots etc. – and all in contained, clean and hygienic conditions.

You’re also going to need an easily accessible and preferably containerised or divided tidy or storage area for tools, labels, pens, ties, plant foods and so on. Think about layout too, and where best to accommodate composts, pots, trays, canes and all the other items so that they are ready for use.

I like to have two separate bins running in the greenhouse. In fact it’s the very first thing that I set up and won’t start any work without them, as it’s amazing how much debris you produce whilst working in a greenhouse. Much of it can be composted, but some things, like old broken plastic pots and seeds trays or diseased plant material, need to be kept separate for waste disposal.

Shade netting - have some on hand long before it's likely to be needed.

Tools will vary according to your needs and the nature of what you will be growing, but secateurs, scissors, a hand watering can and a couple of sprays are all pretty indispensible in my experience.

Finally, unless you have indeed been forced to locate your greenhouse in a dark, shady corner where a shed might otherwise live, then you will almost certainly need some shading ready for extremes of temperature.

You can easily attach shading net to the inside or your glass walls, and some greenhouses come with their own shading systems too, but in either case you’ll need to have it ready to use well in advance of summer.