News Tagged ‘Garden’

Doing battle

Monday, May 24th, 2010

The badger has visited the garden again.  First he circumnavigated the garden and came in at the back breaking a fence panel to get into our garden.  We replaced the fence panel, repaired the damage to the grass and had one night without damage.  Last night he must have spent the whole night breaking through the wire fence at the front of the garden again but we did not have any damage to the grass.  perhaps he had used up all his strength.  We have dug two garden forks into the ground where the damage is and hope that he doesn’t break through again.  Tomorrow we will repair the fence with some stout wire and I think that we will have to invest in an electric fence.  The second thing that we have a problem with in this garden is bindweed. No sooner have I weeded an area and untangled and dug up the bindweed than it has grown again.  It is a very difficult weed to deal with and I think patience is needed.  If my borders weren’t so full of plants I could use a Glyphosate weed killer but I have too many plants squashed together for that so hand weeding it is.  It is always much easier with a glass of wine to hand!

the new badger damage

the new badger damage


A shocking site

Thursday, May 20th, 2010
Badger damage

Badger damage

I opened the curtains to another beautiful day.  As I gazed over the garden I suddenly noticed that during the night we had had a visit from the badger.  He or she or maybe  there was a party of badgers but anyway they had dug up the whole lawn.  I think they were looking for earth worms and I can only assume  they had found lots judging by the huge mess they had made.  There are holes and bits of grass everywhere which will take me along time to repair.  I have found the hole where they are getting in and intend to repair it today as well although I think I might be onto a losing battle.   On a happier note as I sit here writing this blog there is a pair of swallows swooping and diving around my head.  They seem to be eyeing up my wood shed as a potential nest site, I do hope they stay I will let you know in future posts.


First rose

Monday, May 17th, 2010

As I opened the curtains this morning I was delighted to see the first rose in my garden flowering away.  It is a very mature Rosa banksiae Lutea which is a brilliant yellow. It covers the whole side of my house and is aabsolutely stunning.   Because it is using so much energy at the moment I have given it a feed of  Ecocharlie Rose plant food to give it extra nutirents and keep it flowering for longer.

My beautiful rose

My beautiful rose


The May Tree.

Monday, May 17th, 2010

Right about now hedgerows, parks, woodlands and gardens across the land are full of frothy white blossom, which is itself buzzing with a multitude of hoverflies and bees. Richly evocative of an English spring, there’s little that’s more eye catching or pleasing to all of the senses than a May Tree in full flower.

A young Hawthorn, or May Tree.

One of the most marvellous and beautiful of our native trees Crataegus mongyna – AKA Hawthorn, Whitethorn, Haegthorn, Quickthorn or May Tree – has an ancient relationship with mankind.

The old Anglo-Saxon name Haegthorn – literally the “Hedge Thorn” – as well as Quickthorn – referring to the value of the plant as a living, impenetrable barrier – shows that it has long been the most valued of hedging and boundary plants. But the Hawthorn has much more to offer than a life as a prickly hedge. These are truly multi-season trees. In good seasons the foliage turns bright red in October.

Hawthorn berries, all a-glow.

Autumn also sees them smothered in tiny bright red berries (the “Haws”). These are packed with antioxidents, vitamins and minerals and are an invaluable pre-winter food source that is harvested by anything and everything that can get to them.

As well as providing great autumn viewing interest to us those berries are a guaranteed bird magnet and they alone make a Hawthorn a near-essential element of any wildlife garden.

Actually much of the plant is edible in one way or another. As well as the fruit that are traditionally turned into jellies and jams the young leaves can be eaten as a salad vegetable, or cooked and added to soups whilst the flowers and flower buds make a pretty and tasty garnish.

Would you like Hawthorn leaves with that, Madam?

Hawthorn wood has long been used for carving, whilst the tough root wood is traditionally used for box making. The trunk wood is also unusually dense and burns at an extremely high heat, so was the wood of choice for smelting iron.

Those individually delicate pure white flowers open from tiny, pink-blushed buds and, after being pollinated, the flowers age back to pale pink before falling in a carpeting confetti shower in early June. Other forms have much deeper pink flowers and these make a pleasing landscape contrast with the white.

Not surprisingly, given it’s long association with mankind and ubiquity in the landscape Hawthorns have many magical and pagan connections, legends and tales associated with them.

Their thorny nature as well as their often somewhat gnarled, Tolkein-esque appearance saw them approached with some trepidation and considered the haunt of  faeries, elementals and assorted enchantments.

A pink, double-flowered Hawthorn.

The common name of May Tree comes from the plants role in traditional May Day celebrations, when both people and their houses were dressed with May blossom (“bringing home the May”).

The popular rhyme “Here we go gathering nuts in May” was sung by the young men, gathering not “nuts” (which are around in Autumn rather that Spring) but “knots” of May blossoms for those May Day festivities.

Those celebrations, which are still richly enjoyed across much of the country - including our Devon neck of the woods – are all about welcoming the arrival of spring, new life and new growth.

Folks “wear the green”, by decking themselves in Hawthorn greenery and flowers, whilst the appearance of the early May blossom always had great significance and itself symbolised the beginning of new life and the onset of the growing season.

Snowy white blossom.

Hawthorns are also extremely long lived. The most ancient of all trees in France is a Hawthorn, reputed to be over 1700 years old.

The oldest British specimen, known as “The Hethel Old Thorn”, grows near Norwich and is believed to be around 700 years old, whilst the most legendary is undoubtedly the famous Glastonbury Holy Thorn in the old ruined Abbey.

Possibly even better news is that Hawthorns are ridiculously easy to grow, and failure is pretty much impossible. They will grow in virtually any soil (aside from a perpetually wet one) and will cheerfully inhabit any aspect.

A single flowered pink form.

Here we have them planted everywhere from full sun to deep shade, although they certainly flower better when given a sunny aspect.

In a completely ideal and open situation they can eventually reach as much as 8 metres (25 feet) in height and breadth. Where space is more limited Hawthorns can also be severely pruned to any acceptable size and shape without compromising flowering.

So from a historical, cultural, culinary, wildlife and aesthetic point of view the Hawthorn is one very special native tree. Why not join in an ancient English tradition and find a spot to plant your own May Tree today.


And the answer is…..

Friday, May 14th, 2010

Actually, first here’s the question for you:

Which plant, when grown here in Blighty,

1) has absolutely no garden pests – nothing from slugs to rabbits to deer will touch them,

2) despite being a shrub requires no pruning,

3) once planted is unlikely to need real maintenance of any kind in the garden, save for maybe a decent annual mulch,

4) is ridiculously hardy, down to about -25C at least,

5) produces some of the most spectacular, highly fragrant and breathtakingly beautiful flowers of any plant anywhere,

6) was, very possibly, the first plant anywhere on earth to be grown for purely ornamental reasons,

6) is flowering right now,

7) oh, and is the number 1 subject of Japanese tattoos…

Give up?

The answer is the Tree Peony, or more accurately the Tree Peonies.

Paeonia Golden Thunder.

Emblematic of several Eastern countries, Peonies have permeated Japanese and Chinese art and culture for millennia where they have always been deeply revered.

Paeonia, the slightly awkwardly spelled genus to which they belong, is a highly distinctive group of less than 40 species.

Despite many attempts to lump them in with various other plants, (particularly the buttercup family) recent genetic studies have revealed that these ancient and highly aristocratic plants are not closely related to anything else.

Paeonia suffruticosa.

Of those 40 species more than 30 are herbaceous and disappear entirely below ground each winter.

The remaining 8 are woody and slowly build a permanent branching structure, much like any other shrub. Reducing things still further just 4 of those 8 species (namely: P. delavayi, P. ludlowii, P. rockii, and P. suffruticosa) are widely cultivated.

Thanks to several thousand years of intensive cultivation and hybridization in the East those 4 have, between them, been responsible for the creation of a multitude of forms and colours, some of which are now readily available for gardeners to plant and enjoy here in the West.

Cultivation.

Paeonia delavayi.

Tree Peonies are not hugely fussy about most aspects of their cultivation and are extremely easy to please in the garden. Plants may be seed grown (the species) or grafted onto a rootstock (the named cultivars).

If grafted, and supplied bare root, then they should be planted deep, with the graft union around 8cm beneath the surface of the soil. This helps to stimulate the grafted plant to create it’s own roots, and forms a stronger plant in the long run. Potted plants should be supplied in very deep pots, having already been planted with the graft union underground.

Soil type is not particularly important. The driest and wettest sites should be avoided, certainly, as should sites in deep shade. In the wild most species grow in quite bright, open situations, on poor soils, and although the plants will thrive in complete shade in cultivation, they will certainly flower much better in a reasonably sunny position. Good air flow is useful too, and will help prevent any fungal disease, although a site with too much exposure risks having the often large flowers smashed in high winds.

Growth habit.

P. ludlowii - new growth unfurling.

Tree peonies are never fast growers, and could certainly never be accused of romping away. Typically a plant will put on perhaps 15cm of new growth each season and will eventually form an attractive, dome shaped shrub of around 2 metres by 2 metres.

The foliage is extremely handsome in it’s own right. The leaves of P. ludlowii & P. delavayi in particular are very large and very heavily divided into various intricate patterns. This foliage is generally cut back by the first hard frosts leaving the thick, densely woody stems over winter. New shoots start to appear in March and (in my experience at least) are completely untroubled by frosts.

The enormously fat flower buds develop alongside the new foliage and  open in succession throughout May and on into June, depending on the temperatures. The species will also set large amounts of seed, from which new plants can easily be germinated.

The species.

Paeonia ludlowii.

Although the hybrids are very spectacular the smaller flowered species from which they were derived are also extremely garden worthy.

P. delavayi (with incredibly intense, blood red flowers) and P. ludlowii, (with larger canary yellow flowers) are very closely related to one another and often considered part of the same species.

Both are widely available as very good value seedling plants, which will flower when only 30cm or so tall, and are to be highly recommended.

P. rockii form.

P. suffruticosa is the Chinese species that forms that backbone of all of the Tree Peony hybrids.

It is widely variable in the wild, with flowers ranging from white through pink to deep crimson and it’s this variation that has provided so much material for generations of plant breeders.

Finally P. rockii (named after the Austrian-American botanist Joseph Rock) is another widely variable Chinese species, but the finest and most sought after forms have single or demi-double flowers that are pure white with black-red markings in the throat. Although there are numerous variations on that theme they are collectively known as the Rock Peonies.

The hybrids.

Paeonia Botan Pink

With such a long and important history of cultivation there are, not surprisingly, innumerable hybrids and named forms in China and Japan.

Widespread interest in the UK has only really taken off in the last 15 years or so, and there are now a number of specialist suppliers who are introducing the Asian hybrids (often under their true Chinese names, sometimes under Anglicised versions) in increasing numbers.

Most of these are regarded as heritage plants – i.e. amongst the heirlooms of the gardening world – and many command hefty price tags that reflect the slowness of grafting and the limited quantities of plant material.

A single flowered P. suffruticosa/rockii hybrid

Flower forms encompass singles, semi-doubles  and full doubles, whilst colours range from white through all possible shades of pink and red, together with yellows and a few peachy/oranges, some with contrasting streaks and stripes in the petals and many with darker centres, where these are visible.

For me, though, the beauty of the Tree peony flower comes through it’s simplicity and purity of form.

The single-flowered white, yellow, and intensely red plants, each with a contrasting boss of golden stamens, some with that dark central “eye” and many with a beautiful perfume, together sum up the glory of the garden on the very cusp of summer.


Poorly Pumpkins!

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

For the last three mornings I have woken up to a ground frost, and today I regret not taking better care of my newly planted pumpkin seedlings  …  they seem to have been doomed from the beginning .. first the mice dug up the seeds and ate them! And now Jack Frost has visited my vegetable patch and decided that the pumpkins are not to be, and has damaged them beyond repair.  Determined to not be beaten in the quest for homegrown pumpkins for Halloween,   I planted out a packet of seeds directly into the ground when I planted my seedlings, so I am hoping they will germinate when the soil warms up, and produce some heavyweight fruits!

On the chicken front, I have had a poorly hen too :(   Her tail feathers were looking a bit mucky, so I tried to bath her in a bucket of warm water, and then on closer examination, I found that she had louse eggs firmly cemented to the base of her feathers.  After seeking some advice from a fellow hen keeper, I have dusted all the girls with some Livestock Louse Powder and will check later in the week, to see if the problem is under control.  I love the ethos of  the EcoCharlie Garden, and would prefer to use environmentally sustainable products as much as possible, so I researched some methods for keeping chickens fit and healthy, and found that if you add Apple Cider Vinegar and garlic to their drinking water, it works not only as a poultry tonic but also to control intestinal worms and parasites.  My garlic is growing well at the moment so we soon be self sufficient, and I have found a local source the the vinegar  … it has to be live and non-pasturised and not the sort you buy from the supermarkets.

 

On a more positive front, my rhubarb is immense, and I have been picking it regularly for the last couple of weeks.  This will also encourage it to keep growing throughout the Summer months.  I usually simply roast the rhubarb in orange juice and zest, fresh and ground ginger and a sprinkling of brown sugar for about 15 minutes in the Aga.  the combination of flavours works so well, and the cooked rhubarb can either simply be eaten with a dollop of creme fraiche, or made into a crumble or fool, or used with any other recipe requiring cooked rhubarb.

My next job of the day, is to sow some Cat Clear as I have a continual challenge of the neighbours cats using my front flower bed as their toilet area!  Cat Clear is an Eco-Friendly solution to feline control in all sized gardens.  It works on two instinctive properties of the plants that are grown from seed – odour and texture.

Hopefully the next time I write, the frost should be gone for this part of the year, and I can continue to plant out some of the more succulent varieties of vegetables including some courgettes.


Garden plants…from outer space.

Monday, May 10th, 2010

Asarum caudatum.

You know those slightly dodgy sci-fi movies & TV series from the 60′s, where our intrepid heroes land on some far-away mysterious planet and find it’s surface rich with bizarre and other-worldly plant forms?

Well, one of my great joys in gardening life is to seek out new, and improbable plant life-forms that can be grown in the garden.

These we affectionately refer to as “Star Trek Plants”.

They’re fun; they’re fascinating; they’re highly collectable: they’re strangely beautiful; best of all they will greatly enrich any garden. Here’s just a few favourites:

Saracenia.

Saracinia flava - red form.

Carnivorous plants are, by their very nature, pretty unusual from the get go, and many defy earth-bound floral conventions by doing away with various things that we’ve come to expect from plants. Like leaves, for example.

Following in that tradition are the Saracenia’s, the hardiest of all Pitcher Plants, and certainly the only ones that can be considered garden hardy in this country. Native to the eastern seaboard of North America, the leaves of these little beauties have vanished, fused instead into a slippery funnel that traps insects and digests their prey in a soup of enzymes.

Great fun (unless you’re a hapless fly, that is) and compellingly beautiful plants that are very much at home in a bog garden too. S. flava and S. purpurea are the ones to look for, along with a huge array of hybrids, each with distinctively patterned pitchers.

Asarum.

Asarum maximum.

If there’s an award for the most fashionable/collectable/in-demand plant in the temperate world then one or other of the 100 odd species of Asarum would have to be a serious contender. The “Wild Gingers” are actually completely unrelated to true gingers but they do exude a warm, gingery fragrance from their foliage.

They are slow-creeping plants of the woodland floor with beautifully patterned, marbled and veined heart-shaped leathery leaves. Beneath their often fabulous leaves they hold an extraordinary floral secret.

Asarum delavayi.

Their flowers vary widely but all defy conventional description. Fleshy, sometimes tubular, sometimes with hugely elongated “tails” and flaring lips in colours such as jet black-and-white, death-grey, lurid purple.

The most flamboyant varieties command huge prices in Japan and the US, but the likes of A. caudatum, A. delayavi and A. maximum are all readily available, and readily grown.

Miracles of nature on any planet, I would never be without them.

Aristolochia.

Aristolochia macrophylla.

Aristolochia, or “Dutchman’s Pipes”, are a large genus of almost exclusively tropical climbing plants with some wonderfully bonkers flowers which can reach epic proportions in the largest species.

Just one species, A. macrophylla, can be regarded as hardy, and, whilst it’s nowhere near the scale of it’s giant cousins, it does share their fabulously bizarre flower shape (the “Dutchman’s Pipe”), coupled with beautiful, large, pale-green leaves that are a perfect heart-shape. The plant is easily grown on a sheltered, sunny wall.

Paris.

Paris polyphylla.

Close relatives to the Trilliums, Paris are another legendary genus of woodland plants, that sadly have nothing to do with the French capital, but are instead, rather prosaically named after the fact that their floral and foliar parts are “paired”.

One cute little species, P. quadrifolia, is a rare British native, but it’s the Asian species that command the most devotion with their extraordinarily sculptural flowers. The petals are reduced to hair-like filaments but the remaining flower parts are hugely enlarged to expose their fascinating arrangements of orange and purple stamens and green or red-brown sepals.

Paris enjoy the same conditions as Trillium and some species follow their floral displays with arrangements of vivid scarlet fruit.

Rheum.

Rheum nobile.

Rheum are rhubarb plants on steroids. Not quite as large as the familiar bog-loving Gunneras, they nevertheless can’t fail to command attention with giant, slightly thorny foliage that is often tinted wine red.

Bold and handsome though it is the foliage in itself isn’t enough to qualify the plants for Outer Space recognition though. It’s actually the flowers, and more particularly the vast, bract-enclosed 2-metre tall floral structures of the near-mythical Nepalese species R. nobile that catapult it to the top of this list.

These yellow towers are actually protection for the true flowers that sit, completely enclosed, within. The effort of producing the flowering stems is such that the plants die after flowering, but the huge quantities of seed held in the other-worldly  flower statues ensures continuation of the species.

Dracunculus.

Dracunculus vulgaris.

Dracunculus – literally “Dragon plant” – is one of the many highly dramatic members of the Aroid (Arum Lily) family. This is one of the largest and strangest of all of the worlds plant families, and, with the mighty 3 metre tall and 2 metre wide Amorphophallus titanium,  includes the largest single flowering structure of any plant on earth.

Dracunculus vulgaris is nowhere near that size, but it does bring much of it’s giant cousins bizarre charm to the garden. Basically it’s very large, velvet textured, blood red and black flower, which has evolved to resemble a rotting corpse, with a smell to match – although only for a few days, luckily!

The species is native to the Balkans and enjoys the warmest spot you can find in the garden, where it will produce magnificent, heavily divided foliage and, just occasionally, one or two of those fantastical 90cm tall flowers.

Echium.

Echium pininana.

Echiums are another large-ish family of flowering plants, but it’s E. pininana, the so-called “Tree Echium” that makes the grade here. These plants are endemic to La Palma in the Canary Islands, but have also proved remarkably adaptable to British gardens, albeit in the most sheltered and warm positions.

E. pininana is a biennial. The plants produce a not-very-inspiring clump of low foliage in their first year of growth, but, if all has gone well and sufficient stores of energy have been built up, then year two will see an extraordinary tower emerge.

Densely packed with narrow foliage and many thousands of small blue flowers this soon becomes a giant flowering spike that can eventually reach 4 metres in height before setting seed and dying away altogether.

Cardiocrinum.

Cardiocrinum giganteum.

Not to be outdone in the giant stakes, Cardiocrinum giganteum is, essentially, a trumpet lily. But, as their name suggests, these are trumpet lilies that are keen to take the starring role in Jack-and-the-beanstalk, defying gravity to produce colossal, nearly 5-metre-tall flowering stems that are capable of putting even the loftiest Echium to shame.

It’s not just sheer size that Cardiocrinums have to offer though, their huge, pendulous white trumpets are also intoxicatingly fragrant and spectacularly beautiful, stained, as they are, with burgundy. Even the foliage is magnificent – each leaf up to 60cm across and highly glossy.

Like several of these plants, individual Cardiocrinum plants die after flowering (which can take 5 or more years from a young plant), but being bulbous they also produce a multitude of offset bulbs that can be grown on to form the next generation of giants.

They are really very hardy, but consideration should obviously be given to the size of the flowers and foliage and the most wind-sheltered spot selected, preferably with the protection of nearby trees. The more food and water the plants have access to then the bigger the flower spike that they can produce. What are you waiting for??


What’s in a name?

Friday, May 7th, 2010

The scientific or Botanical name of a plant is a key that unlocks a gateway of knowledge and information about that plant. Knowing that name will let you understand what type of plant you are dealing with, what other plants it’s closely related too, and something about the plants history or physical description. That’s really quite a lot of info to pack into just a few words, and yet, sadly, this valuable resource is too often seen by gardeners  as a source of confusion and complication.

The problem of plant names.

Ever since human kind developed language we have had names for the plants around us. Very often these were highly descriptive, but also highly localised and regional.

Arum maculatum - "maculatum" = speckled.

The common wild arum (Arum maculatum), so familiar from British hedgerows, is a good case in point. Widespread across these Isles, and also the source of many myths, as well as having been pressed into use for food, starch and even soap, the plant has, over the centuries, acquired over 100 different common names .

Lords-and-Ladies and Cuckoo-Pint are some of it’s more widespread monikers, but Devon folks called the plant Dog’s-Dribble, whilst in neighbouring Somerset it was Babe-in-the-cradle and in Sussex Ram’s-Horn.

All of which meant that even close neighbours wouldn’t necessarily know which plant everyone was referring to. This is just one example, but virtually every single European plant is in much the same boat in terms of the multiplicity of their common names.

The birth of Taxonomy.

This situation was greatly compounded when plants started to be introduced into cultivation from other countries and far away lands. It became clear than an unambiguous and universal system of naming was needed so that Botanists and gardeners alike could all know to which plant they were referring.

Linnaeus - the Swede who even gave himself a Latinised name.

The elegant solution to this problem was devised in the mid 18th Century by Carl von Linné, a Swede now regarded as the grand-daddy of Biological nomenclature.

Linnaeus, as he named himself, developed the Binomial System which was applied to plants in 1753 and then to animals in 1756. Under this system all plants are given a two part name with the first identifying the genus to which they belong, and the second the unique species that they represent.

Each species is also placed into an overarching classification that identifies exactly where it sits in relation to all other plants, and ultimately all other living things. This arrangement and classification of life is known as Toxomomy, and is overseen by the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature.

Botanical names.

Under the rules of Taxonomy the description and name of a plant must be published in Latin in a suitability respected Botanical journal or book. Back in Linnaeus’ day Latin was the unambiguous and pan-European language of scholarship, and it’s the adoption of this (rather than Swedish or English, say) that has secured the permanent future of his system of naming.

It’s common to refer to Botanical names as “Latin Names” but actually they are Latinised versions of words or names from many other languages, particularly Greek, so the term “Botanical Name” is both more useful and more accurate.

The meanings of names.

This is where things get really interesting from a gardeners point of view. Those Botanical names are never chosen at random and each carries useful information about the plant to which it’s attached.

Deutzia scabra - deutzia = after Jan van der Deutz + scabra = rough-surfaced (referring to the leaves).

The first half of each name is known as the Generic name, and identifies the limited group of close relatives (the genus) to which the plant belongs. Some random examples with handily descriptive names are:

Nothofagus – “fagus” is a Beech tree, “notho” means false, so a Nothofagus is a False Beech, i.e. a tree that resembles a Beech, but which is something different.

Aquilegia – “aquila” is an Eagle, and Aquilegia refers to the eagles-claw shape of the flower parts.

Magnolia, Fuchsia, Deutzia, Camellia & Stewartia – are all examples of commemorative names that use Latised versions of the surnames of the men associated with early the descriptions of each genus – in these cases, Magnol, Fuchs, Deutz, Kamel & Stewart.

Lavandula angustifolia - lavandula = blue-ish herb + angustifolia = narrow leafed.

The second half of a plant’s name is called the Specific Epithetic and identifies it’s particular and distinctive species.

These specific epithets are always usefully descriptive and cover a wide spectrum of derivations including the habit, shape and colour of a plant, it’s flowers, leaves, bark, fragrance, it’s country or region of origin, it’s season of growth or flowering, as well as various commemorative names.  Some examples:

acaulis = stemless
aestivalis = flowering in spring
alba = white
alpestris = from mountains

angustifolia = narrow-leaved
argentea = silvery
aurantiaca = orange
australis = from the south
autumnalis = of autumn
azurea = blue

Pronunciation.

Trying to figure out the correct pronunciation of Botanical Names is, without doubt, the barrier that prevents some gardeners from embracing them.

Rhododendron sinogrande - rhodo = rose-like, dendron = tree + sino = from China, grande = big!

Names like Arisaema zanlanscianense may seem a tad daunting at first, but they all carry that same valuable information about the plant that they describe,

In this case “arisaema” = closely related to Arums  + “zanlanscianense” = coming from the Chinese region of Zanlan.

In fact all English speakers already use quite a few scientific names in common speech without too many problems.

Amphibian, pachyderm, and Tyrannosaurus all qualify along with familiar, but actually quite long plant household-names, like Rhododendron for instance.

There are also five simple rules that will make the decoding of Botanical pronunciation much easier:

1. “ch” (as in Chrysanthemum) is always pronounced as a hard K

2. “ae” (as in Aesculus) is always pronounced EE

3. “ii” (as in wilsonii) is always pronounced EE-EYE

4. most vowels (including “y”) are pronounced short rather than long (as in maths, ethics, fish, box, bus, and cyst)

5. the emphasis is normally placed on the second to last vowel or pair of vowels, so Clematis should be clem-AY-tiss (rather CLEM-a-tiss) and henryi is HEN-ree-eye (rather than hen-REE-eye)  for example.

Hepatica henryi - hepatica = kidney-shaped (leaves) + henryi = after the famous Irish plant hunter Augustine Henry.

Following these five rules will enable you to pronounce virtually all Botanical names correctly. When faced with a new or unfamiliar name it’s best to sound them out one syllable at a time and then just run the syllables together.

You’ll also find that new names become much more recognisable from the constituent parts that you’ve already come across.

With a little practise the whole world of plant Botanical names and the valuable and interesting information that they hold will open up to you, and your relationship with your garden and it’s floral inhabitants will be that much the richer for it.


Greenhouse vegetables.

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

With temperatures rising and summer just around the corner the unheated greenhouse can really start to earn it’s keep. Whilst there are a huge range of vegetables that thrive outdoors in our climate, there are also a select few that really do need the protection of glass in order to give their best.

Tomatoes.

The most obvious and perhaps even traditional of these are undoubtedly tomatoes. There are now a vast array of varieties and types of tomatoes available for the home grower, some of which can be successfully cropped outdoors if the weather is kind. Down here in “sunny” Devon the last two summers of eternal wetness have well and truly put paid to any attempts to produce outdoor tomato crops, with most plants succumbing to blight and weather-related fungal attacks  long before they were able to set fruit.

For those plants grown under glass, though, the outcome was much happier, and although 2008/2009 will certainly not go down in any veg growers record book some decent crops were eventually produced despite the cold temperatures and general lack of anything resembling a traditional summer.

Tomato variety Sunbaby.

The upright, cordon tomato varieties such as ‘Sunbaby’ and ‘Shirley’ should be selected for greenhouse use. Seeds should be sown in mid-March, with the subsequent seedlings being ready to transplant in mid-May. There are also many outlets for young plug and seedling plants which will perform equally admirably and which allow you to catch up if you didn’t have a chance to start from seed earlier in Spring.

Transplant seedlings into 12 inch pots with a rich, free draining compost, and make sure to include a tall cane or other support for each of the plants. Given a little care, plus lots of water and tomato feed, the extra heat afforded the plants under glass will produce much higher yields of fruit, with much better ripening than would be the case outdoors.

Cucumbers.

The range of cucumbers for home growing has expanded considerably in recent years with the arrival of a range of easily obtainable F1 hybrid varieties (such as ‘Fernspot F1′) that are easily grown and produce consistently good results.

Cucumber plants tend to be rather fragile under the weight of the heavy fruit, but should be carefully supported on canes.

Care is pretty much as for tomato plants, with seeds sown in March and seedlings or plugs transplanted into 12 inch pots in mid-May.

The wild plants from which cucumbers have been developed are trailing, rather than climbing, but the fruit ripens far more successfully with good access to light and air, so plants should be supported with canes or tied into wires that run along the length of the greenhouse.

Once the first half-dozen leaves have appeared on the young plants the growing tip should be pinched out to encourage the production of several growing shoots.

Cucumber plants are only weakly twining at best and obviously carry very heavy fruit, so it’s particularly important that these developing shoots are carefully tied in to their supports to keep them upright and stable. Plants should be kept well watered and a rich tomato-type feed given every two weeks.

Aubergines.

Far less commonly grown in this country, aubergines, like tomatoes, are South American members of the nightshade family that most definitely need the extra heat and protection from wind that a greenhouse can provide. As with cucumbers, much work has been done to develop varieties that can be easily grown at home, and very heavy fruiting varieties like ‘Moneymaker’ make for easy and extremely rewarding  greenhouse crops. The plants are also very attractive, not just for the rather spectacular fruit, but also the for the foliage and large purple flowers.

Aubergines - highly decorative, highly tasty.

Aubergines should be sown indoors or under heat in March or in an unheated greenhouse in April. Once they have produced four leaves – any time from mid-May to mid-June, depending on when they were started – they can be pricked out and transplanted into 9 inch pots, together with the same staking/support as for tomatoes and cucumbers.

Plants should not be allowed to develop lots of small fruits or none will be able to ripen properly. Each plant is capable or maturing anywhere from three to six fruit in a growing season – depending on how warm and sunny the summer turns out to be - so pinch out any weak or poorly developed fruit-lets to let the plants divert energy into a few really good ones instead. Lots of water and regular supplies of tomato feed will, once again, ensure the best crops.

Capsicum.

Saving the best to last, we come to the real hot-house gems, the Capsicums or peppers. Until fairly recently hardly anyone grew these South-American beauties in their home greenhouses in this country, but now they are very much the “vegetable de jour” and plug plants are almost as readily available as tomatoes and cucumbers.

Capsicum Sunrise.

Capsicum plants are somewhat more tender than toms, cus and aubergines, particularly when first germinated. Seed should only be sown under glass when temperatures are remaining consistently above 12C, and the seedlings (or bought-in plugs) transplanted into 8 inch pots once they have developed three of four true leaves.

Capsicum are not true climbing plants, but, rather like cucumbers, they certainly do require additional support of a short cane etc., in order to successfully bear their large fruit. The plants should be shaded from mid-day sun and kept slightly on the dry side, without actually ever quite drying out completely. A half-strength tomato feed should be applied every two weeks once the plants are growing strongly.

Capsicum Tequila.

There are now a wide array of Capsicum varieties available to the gardener, from the sweet bell peppers that start out green and ripen to yellow, orange, red or black/purple (like the fabulous ‘Tequila’), to the smaller, much hotter chillies than all turn scarlet upon ripening – they are all part of the same Mexican species: Capsicum annuum.

Aside from the obvious culinary uses Capsicum are such beautiful fruiting plants that you’ll be continually admiring their progress. Personally I can’t think of any more rewarding use for your greenhouse space this summer.


Erythroniums.

Friday, April 30th, 2010

Another genus that provides some of the real stars of the spring garden is Erythronium. Commonly known as dogtooth violets – referring to the bulb of the species E. dens-canis, which does sort-of resemble a canine fang – as well as trout lilies – after to the speckled leaves of many species, that supposedly look like trout scales…if you’ve been on the ale, maybe – these are truly beautiful lily relatives.

Erythronium dans-canis bulbs - the Dog-Tooth.

The 25 to 30 species of Erythronium are mostly woodland natives, but some species range up into sub alpine and even truly alpine regions of Europe, Asia and Western North America, this last being the place that most of them call home.

Much like Trilliums Erythronium can be divided into two botanical groups. the Eurasian species (the Dogtooth violets, if you will) are the smallest and are represented by E. dens-canis and it’s close relatives/variants –  E. japonicum, E. sibiricum, and E. caucasicum. The North American species (the Trout Lilies)  that form the second group are taller and represent the large bulk of the species. These two groups do not overlap geographically, are don’t seem to be very closely related botanically, having evolved in divergent directions after the break up of the supercontinent where their ancestors must have first appeared.

Erythronium americanum.

In the Eastern states of North America there are 5 native species, but the remaining 18 species are all native to the forests of the western seaboard, with particular concentrations in Oregon and California.

Erythroniums are quintessential Spring flowering perennials and display many of the typical qualities of other plants from the woodland floor. Like their native companions such as Hepatica, Trillium and Uvularia they emerge from dormancy between February and April, before the woodland canopy has leafed out, and then flower and set seed fairly quickly before dying back down again in early summer.

Erythronium Susannah.

In common with pretty much all bulbous plants the flowers and general performance of Erythroniums in one season is dependent upon the reserves of energy that have been laid down over the previous season.

The longer that a plant is able to keep in leaf the better the vigour and the display of foliage and flower will be the following year, and this length of growing season can be effected by water and food supplies, to it pays to keep a close eye on plants once flowering has finished.

Unlike their relatives the true Lilies Erythonium bulbs don’t respond at all well to being dried out and should ideally never be bought as “dry bulbs”. In addition many species have very delicate, fragile,  thin bulbs that are easily damaged if you do attempt to dig them up and dry them out, so careful handling is definitely required when dividing or splitting large clumps.

Erythronium Craigton Cover Girl.

Without doubt the best way to introduce and establish plants if to look for healthy, lush, pot-grown plants that are in full leaf, although the rarer species can also be successfully purchased damp packed having been freshly lifted in Summer from specialist bulb suppliers.

The alpine species, are, not surprisingly perhaps, quite demanding and tricky to accommodate in most garden conditions, but many of the woodlanders are amongst the easiest and most rewarding of all Spring perennials.

Erythronium californicum is a tall, stately and very easily grown species with bright white flowers that have a contrasting golden yellow centre. The form ‘White Beauty’ is widely available, and totally reliable in the garden.

Erythronium dens-canis Snowflake.

The little 15cm tall European species Erythronium dens-canis is early flowering and is widely available in a plethora of different forms and selections, which, for the most part don’t differ hugely from one another. All have lovely, dark-speckled leaves and ‘Snowflake’ is a distinctive beautiful white flowered form.

Erythronium oregonum is a normally white flowered species with wonderfully patterned and mottled leaves; E. oregonum ‘Sulphur’ is a form with equally appealing lemon yellow flowers.

One of the most widespread American species (and one that has also been used extensively in hybridisation programmes) is the pink flowered Erythronium revolutum.

Erythronium revolutum.

This 30cm tall plant is quite variable in terms of leaf quality and flower size and depth of colour, but there are a number of well tested selections – including the Devon form ‘Knightshayes’ Pink’ - that are worth seeking out in preference to the general species.

Amongst the many fine hybrids involving this species are E. ‘Joanna’, a particular favourite of mine, with gorgeous apricot coloured flowers that change colour as they age and E. ‘Craigton Cover Girl’ with very large flowers of pale pink.

The variety most frequently seen in cultivation, though, is definitely the bright lemon-yellow flowered old hybrid E. ‘Pagoda’, a tough, vigorous and widely available garden plant with broad, glossy foliage that emerges with a pleasing bronzy tint. E. ‘Sundisc’,  E. ‘Kondo’ and E. ‘Susanna’ are similar, and are also widely available, but both have rather superior flowers.

Erythronium Pagoda.

Erythronium love conditions that replicate their wild habitats. A spot beneath deciduous trees in an open, loamy soil that dries out a little in Summer will suit them admirably, but any conditions that accomodate the likes of snowdrops will also work well. pH is not particularly critical, although thin, chalk-based soils will certainly need bulking up with organic materials and heavy clay soils will require opening up to improve drainage. Where soil conditions are unsuitable then Erythroniums can also be grown very happily in raised beds or in large containers, which also makes it easier to observe the extremely beautiful flowers in close-up detail and at eye level. The most vigorous varieties can also be naturalised in grass and can look spectacular in large groups planted around the margins of trees and shrubs.

Erythronium Joanna.

All of the more vigorous forms will multiply well at the bulb and the longer they are kept in leaf the quicker they will bulk up. Preventing them from setting seed will also increase the rate at which they increase underground, and can be easily achieved by simply removing the dead flowers.

Erythonium do set seed in quantity and this can be easily collected once the seed capsules have ripened, dried and are starting to split. The seed should then be stored dry and sown in August into a deep container which is then left outside to overwinter, since seed requires a period of winter cold to stimulate germination.

Growing from seed is a rather slow process though, and plants take anything up to 5 years before reaching flowering size. As with adult plants, keeping the youngsters in leaf for as long as possible is the key to speeding the process up as much as possible.

Erythronium californicum.

Luckily Erythonium are not greatly troubled by pests and diseases and the woodland species don’t have any great specialist needs in the garden.

Slugs and snails can be a pain during wet springs but most other problems are due to poor drainage causing rotting and fungal damage to the bulbs.