News Tagged ‘Compost’

Vermiculture.

Thursday, July 21st, 2011

Two blogs ago I looked at the variety and number of worms present in our gardens and the crucial role that they play in maintaining and creating soils. You can get really pro-active, though, and harness the power of worms even more directly by turning your hand to vermiculture (the keeping of worms) by creating your very own earthworm hotel in the form of a wormery. Wormeries are an efficient, easily maintained and eco-friendly way of disposing of much of your garden and kitchen waste. Once the worms have done their thing they will not only have composted and disposed of your waste but will also provide you with two wonderfully useful end products: supremely rich, crumbly, ultra-high-grade compost – known as vermicompost – and concentrated liquid plant feed.

Vermicompost - almost good enough to eat!

Earthworms are the most efficient and successful detrivores to have ever evolved. Each individual eats, digests, excretes, and thus processes, anything up to it’s own bodyweight in decaying plant material each day. Together, a healthy and active population of earthworms can process pretty much all the suitable material that you can find, greatly reducing the overall volume of  your waste. The solid material that they produce – the vermicompost – can be used directly in the garden or in pots as a topdressing, planting material, or a soil conditioner/improver, whilst the liquid needs to be diluted at the rate of around 10 parts of water to one of concentrate.

It is estimated that each individual in the UK generates something in the order of 500kg of waste on an annual basis, and that each household collectively throws away over a tonne of waste every year. Something like 70% of this household waste has the potential to be either recycled or composted. Despite the fact that the majority of the people now regard recycling as worthwhile, currently only 14.5% of dustbin contents actually are recycled or composted. As a result many local authorities now offer for sale to the public compost generated by their own recycling efforts.

However, it makes far more sense for the individuals who are generating the waste to take direct responsibility for the disposal of at least some of the compostable elements. This, surely, is the most viable model for the future of kitchen and garden waste, saving money and time for the local authorities currently charged with it’s disposal (and by extension for the council tax payers who fund the process) and simultaneously providing a valuable source of planting raw materials for households that would otherwise have to buy them in. That’s what I call a win/win.

Of course many households who have access to an outside garden already do compost at least a proportion of their waste via their compost bins and heaps. Nevertheless, wormeries provide an invaluable alternative strategy for all households – they can process compostable waste far more rapidly than the average compost heap whilst opening up composting to those who have very limited outside space, or even no outside garden at all.

A 100 Litre wormery.

The equipment to create a wormery can readily be purchased, and generally consists of a large plastic bin with a tight-fitting hinged lid containing airholes and an internal perforated platform that separates the liquid waste from the solid. The bin is also fitted with a tap at the base from where the liquid can be drawn.

The earthworms that live and work within the wormeries are not the regular, soil-dwelling species that populate much of our regular garden soil. Terrestrial species would not survive in a wormery, instead one or more of the different species of British native compost worms must be used: composting worm (Eisenia andrei), red tiger worms (Eisenia foetida) or brandlings (Dendrabeana venera). The inhabitants for your wormery are generally supplied along with their living quarters, but failing that they can also be sourced from fishing shops or some organic gardening suppliers.

Compost worms - Eisenia foetida AKA Tiger Worms.

A well-maintained wormery should be odour-free, and so can happily live right outside the kitchen door or even indoors, where practically possible. To start the wormery place a single sheet of newspaper (about 20cm square) onto the separating platform and cover this with dampened, shredded newspaper. To this add a small amount of peat-substitute compost, such as coir, leaf mould or any other well-rotted sterile compost. The worms can now now placed into the middle of the bedding in their new home, along with their first meal – which should be no more than three or four handfuls of kitchen or garden waste. The lid should be left open for ten minutes or so, so that the light will encourage the worms to burrow down into the bedding. No additional food should be added for the next 7 days.

Wormeries may readily be located just outside a house door.

Once the worms have bedded in, they will start to increase their activity and speed of feeding. Initially add only small amounts (perhaps three of four handfuls) of waste each week and monitor to ensure that it’s all being digested and is disappearing as it should. Once the initial settling-in period has passed then kitchen and garden waste may be added at the rate it becomes available, ideally every day. Tough and woody material should be chopped up as finely as possible and the whole contents should be gently mixed through every so often to ensure an even distribution of worms and material.

Most wormeries are housed out of doors, and worm activity will slow with falling winter temperatures, however, if the wormery is sufficiently full at the start of winter, then the heat generated by the process of decomposition is generally sufficient to prevent the internal temperature of the wormery from dropping too much. Insulating the wormery over-winter can be a great help, and of course it can also be moved into a shed or garage to help maintain temperatures, particularly during very cold spells. Equally wormeries should never be placed in strong sunlight as the compost worms will not survive temperatures above 40°C.

When the wormery is nearly full and the material fully composted the contents will have a dark, spongy, soil-like appearance. Remove the worms, which should usually be in a layer just below the surface, and place them temporarily in a bucket or other suitable container. The compost may then be emptied out of the bin where you intend to use them or saved for use as an ingredient for making up your own potting compost. Your worms can be replaced into the newly set-up wormery and used for making the next batch of compost. It is usually possible to harvest worm compost from your wormery about every four to nine months, depending on temperatures, location and material used.

Most kitchen and garden vegetable waste can be added to a wormery – anything that you would add to a compost heap, essentially. However, compost worms cannot tolerate acidic conditions, and the failure of a wormery is often down to the pH dropping too low. This is further verified by the appearance of tiny cotton thread-like white worms in the compost. The addition of calcified seaweed, or crushed eggshells, well mixed in with some dampened, shredded newspaper, should restore the balance.


Wonder Worms.

Thursday, July 7th, 2011

Most gardeners are very well aware that worms are crucially important garden friends, and that their presence (or absence) in soil is a good indicator of how healthy that soil is. But earthworms do virtually all of their work undetected and invisible to us surface dwellers, so the exact mechanisms by which they operate are somewhat more mysterious.

Earthworms have been dubbed “ecosystem engineers”, and, like their human counterparts, they are able to alter the physical structure of their environments. Worms move through the soil by means of burrowing, with different species specialising in either horizontal or vertical runways some of which can extend deep into the soil. These burrows create a network of virtual pores through which beneficial oxygen and water can enter and carbon dioxide can exit the soil. At the same time worms digest their way through their surroundings, literally breaking larger particles into smaller, and their resulting faeces (worm casts) are responsible for much of the open, crumb structure of the the best soils, which in turn allows access to plant roots and myriad other subterranean organisms.

An earthworm cast.

Improvement in soil structure is only the start of the story, however. Earthworms are detrivores – meaning that they feed exclusively on dead material – and they play an equally vital role in the decomposition of that organic material. The earthworms resident in your compost are busily munching their way through, and thus decomposing your garden and kitchen waste, and soil-dwelling earthworms are engaged in exactly the same process. Together with a galaxy of fungi and bacteria this process of decomposition releases the nutrients tied-up in dead plants and animals and allows them to be accessed by living plants. The volume of material processed in this way is pretty staggering – just consider, for starters, all of the autumn leaves shed by deciduous trees and shrubs each season that are efficiently and rapidly recycled back into the soil, a job done largely by worms.

The industrious work of earthworms also acts to mix together the different strata of soil. Nutrition is incorporated deeper into the soil (without which it would be rapidly leached of it’s goodness by rain and the feeding of living plants) and the fertile top-soil region is slowly expanded. These actions lead Charles Darwin to refer to earthworms as “nature’s ploughs” due to their ability to mix and fertilise soil with organic matter, but worms are hugely more efficient, and entire ecosystems are dependent opon their actions.

An earthworm - this one is Lumbricus terrestris - in its burrow.

Earthworms, as mentioned above, aren’t the only operators in the area of decomposition. In fact they are the  first level – the macro-scale when it comes to matters of micro-organisms – and fungi and bacteria take over where they leave off, breaking particles into even smaller pieces and fully releasing the nutrients within. For the most part, however, these fungi and bacteria are unable to survive without the presence of worms, who are, effectively, responsible for providing their food, so whilst worms can operate independently of their decompostion partners the same can’t be said of the bacteria and fungi. What’s more the higher the concentration of worms in a given soil the larger the presence of beneficial bacteria and fungi will be.

It comes as a surprise to many gardeners to learn that there are actually many species of earthworm present in a typical garden, and even more so to hear that they all specialise in different terrains. From a gardeners point of view the species can be broken down into four broad groups.

First up are the so-called compost earthworms, so-named for their love of compost bins. They require a warm, continually moist environment with a regular supply of new material on which to feed and are highly active, digesting rapidly and reproducing quickly too. The most commonly encountered species of the compost group are Eisenia fetida and E. veneta, both characterised by their relatively small size and bright red colour with distinctive paler stripes, which lends them the common name of Tiger Worms.

Eisenia fetida - one of the familiar Tiger Worm compost species.

The second group are known as the Epigeic earthworms. They live on the soil surface amongst the leaf litter – Epigeic literally means to crawl across the surface of the soil – and can be regarded as the first line of attack in the decomposition of material and the recycling of nutrients. These species do not burrow at all, but feed exclusively above ground, breaking-down organic material into pieces small enough for the subterranean species to access easily. Epigeic earthworms are generally also bright red or red-ish-brown, but they lack the stripes of the compost species. Common Epigeic earthworm species include: Dendrobaena species, Eiseniella tetraedra, Helodrilus oculatus, Lumbricus species and Satchellius mammalis.

Next up come the Endogeic earthworms. As might be imagined, these species both live in and feed directly upon the soil. They create networks of horizontal burrows through which they move and digest/excrete as they go and are able to burrow deep into the soil. Although they do re-use their burrows to some extent they characteristically create new burrows as they go. Endogeic earthworms are large in size and generally pale in colour, with different species appearing  pink or grey as well as green-ish or blue-ish. Common endogeic species include: Allolobophora chloroticaApporectodea species, Murchieona muldali and Octolas species.

Allolobophora chlorotica - commonly known as the Green Earthworm.

The final group are the anecic earthworms. These species make permanent, vertical burrows in the soil and feed upon surface leaves that they capture on the surface and drag into their burrows. The anecic species are the ones responsible for the familiar surface piles of worm-casts so often seen in lawns and other grasslands where they create middens that surround the entrance to their burrows. Anecic species are the largest of our native earthworms and are dark red or brown in colour at the head end with paler tails. The two most common species are: Lumbricus terrestris and Apporrectodea longa.

Apporrectodea longa - the Black-Headed Worm.

The anatomy of an earthworm consists of a simple digestive tube housed within a thick cylindrical muscular sheath that forms the body. That body is segmented with furrows on the surface of the body marking the division between each segment. The first segment incorporates the mouth of the animal, and has a fleshy, muscular lobe on the top. This lobe can be pulled in to seal the mouth off, or pushed outwards to investigate its surroundings. Aside from the mouth, each of the segments has a series of eight retractable bristles which together allow the earthworm to propel itself along.

Earthworms are hermaphrodites, with each individual possessing both male and female reproductive organs. When two earthworms are ready to mate they adopt a head-to-tail position, cover themselves in a layer of mucus, and exchange sperm. Each then forms a tube of mucous that detaches and moves forward along the body, collecting both the individuals own eggs as well as the sperm received from its partner en route.

Mating earthworms.

Fertilization subsequently occurs within this mucous tube which detaches from the front of the body and is deposited in the soil where it dries to form an egg capsule or cocoon, from which one or more young earthworms will eventually hatch. Many species are able to breed several times a year.

Earthworm egg cocoons - these are from L. terrestris.


Herb Spirals.

Thursday, June 23rd, 2011

Growing your own produce has become de rigueur for almost all gardeners, and while fruit and veg are the backbone of any kitchen garden herbs occupy a special place in our hearts. There’s no doubt about it – herbs are hip! They straddle the boundary between the utilitarian, productive garden and the ornamental garden, and of course help bring the kitchen into the garden and vice versa.

Herbs are also very easy to grow and fun to collect, experiment with and above all to savour. It can’t be any coincidence that the rise in the passion for cooking, and Mediterranean food in particular, has also brought a boom in the number and varieties of herbs that are readily available to the gardener. At the same time there’s been a resurgence of interest in some of our native plants and the nearly-lost kitchen uses to which they’ve traditionally been put .

Herbs can be tucked in amongst other kitchen plants and can readily be grown in containers of all shapes and sizes, but for those with a real passion for these aromatic and sensual plants, there’s nothing better than a dedicated herbal bed, and the big-daddy of all such beds is the herb spiral. Herb spirals pack an array of handy benefits into one simple idea.

Herb spiral made from a variety of materials showing the compass points.

Designed on permaculture principles, the spiral is intended to provide optimum growing conditions for the plants whilst at the same time saving on ground space. By figuring out the compass direction that each side of the spiral faces you can then readily provide a variety of different environmental conditions, and so grow together herbs that wouldn’t ordinarily thrive when simply planted side by side in open ground. Most of the Mediterranean species, for example, require as much sunlight, heat and sharp drainage as you can give them, and can best be grown on the top (where the drainage is very significantly enhanced) and on the south-facing side of the spiral, facing into the sun. Others, such as mints, lemon balm, chives and wild garlic all relish the shade of the north facing side of the spiral and the damper, less harshly drained foothills at the base.

The resulting community of herbs can accommodate even quite large plants and yet the whole structure can also be grown on a terrace or even a roof garden. The extra elevation that the plants gain helps greatly with drainage in general, but also allows the soil to heat up far more quickly and effectively than a comparable area of flat ground, as well as attracting bees and hoverflies. Once the herbs have established and filled the growing spaces nicely then the maintenance of the spiral is virtually nil, save for the odd bit of pest control when molluscs decide to explore the ramparts.

This new spiral is made from lengths of recycled fencing.

To create a spiral you first need to find a suitable site. It should ideally be around 2 metres in diameter, (although can, of course, be either larger or smaller to suit your needs) and should preferably be within a short dash of the kitchen for maximum usefulness, although the key requirement is to find a site which has the highest exposure to sun, to suit the thymes, sage & rosemary; if that means a longer trip from kitchen to spiral, then so be it.

Mark out the footprint of the spiral by placing a bamboo cane or similar in the centre of your chosen site, attaching a 1 metre long piece of string to it,  and scoring the ground or soil in a circular arc around the centrepoint. Next place a thick layer of old newspaper, cardboard or mulch around the outer part of the circle to prevent intrusion by weeds and then you’re ready to start construction. The structure of the spiral is most usually made from rocks, but wood, bricks or even old wine bottles can also be used. The open end of the spiral must face north, so make sure you know your bearings before you begin to build up!

A brick spiral, mid-construction.

Start by laying out the basic shape of the spiral on the ground as a foundation and firmly infill behind with compost and/or soil to help to strenthen and hold the structure as you go. Once the outer circle is complete then, starting at the northern edge once again, you simply build the spiral upwards and inwards, using the largest, heaviest stones at the base. The optimum height at the centre is around 1 metre, and as you build upwards, start to add coarse gravel into the soil/compost mixture to optimise the drainage. Leave some depth room for extra topsoil and planting compost, as well as for the plants themselves of course, this will also ensure that the compost doesn’t overflow and get washed overboard by heavy rain.

A flat stone spiral, ready for planting up.

Once it’s fully built then water the whole structure thoroughly and allow it to settle. there will be lots of air pockets and the soil level may drop considerably in some cases, so be sure to top up before planting. Aside from full-blown trees such as Bay then pretty much any and all herbs that take your fancy can be fitted into the spiral, just remember to research their respective growing requirements and site them accordingly, from hot and dry at the top and south sides, to damp and cool on the north and base of the spiral.

A lovely stone-built spiral with it's herbs maturing nicely.

A well built spiral made of appealing materials makes for a very attractive addition to any garden, and the boost in growth rates for the plants will ensure a goodly crop of herbs for the kitchen too.


A day gardening

Friday, March 25th, 2011

It’s so lovely to be free to spend a day in the garden and have no other pressing chores.  I had a day like that yesterday.  I had noticed that the woodland area needed a little TLC so I spent the first two hours weeding and collecting the dead leaves.  I turned my attention next to the path, again weeding and raking the fallen leaves.  The finished effect was just lovely, all the colours of the plants seemed to turn from drab to bright green and the path is visible again.

Next I decided to move into the sunshine and attend to the edges of the lawn.  My husband had cut the lawn the day before, which transformed the garden but it showed up the messy edges.  Some bits had gone bare completely, so to repair these patches I re-planted the large grass weeds that I found growing under the hedges in the bald bits and then gave them a hair cut along with the edges, much better.

After lunch in the garden reading the paper, both of which is such a treat.  I decided to do some light pruning, just cutting back unruly shrubs that were overgrowing their neighbours and pathways.  Also anything that was dead diseased or damaged. Growing along the pathways are quite a few Hellebores that have become very heavy with all the flowers.  My hazel hurdles had broken so I used the fallen Silver Birch twigs to make some rustic supports.  I am not sure how long they will last but if it stops them getting trodden on that’s great. As afternoon tea time arrived I had filled my trug many times and was ready for a well earned rest with my feet up.  What a fantastic day.  Oh by the way my investigations into the compost heap was to no avail it had not rotted down all, maybe in the Winter after I have treated it with some natural compost activator.


Nocternal Vision!

Tuesday, September 7th, 2010

I am happy to report that my trial of seed tapes was very successful with my carrot crop this year  …  I am harvesting the most wonderful carrots, which are straight and perfectly formed, and large and juicy!  I did feed them regularly with Ecocharlie Organic Fruit and Vegetable Feed I have been making delicious Carrot and Coriander Soup which I have to say is a hit with all three of my children, with the added bonus that I have told them it will help them see in the dark, and on the basis they are all teenagers, this could be positively advantageous to their nocturnal lifestyles! Recipe to follow …

Ingredients

  • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 1 onion chopped
  • 1 tsp ground coriander
  • 1 potato chopped
  • 450g carrots , peeled and chopped
  • 1.2l vegetable or chicken stock
  • handful coriander (about ½ a supermarket packet)
  • Heat the oil in a large pan, add the onion, then fry for 5 mins until softened. Stir in the ground coriander and potato, then cook for 1 min. Add the carrots and stock, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat. Cover and cook for 20 mins until the carrots are tender.
  • Tip into food processor with the coriander. then blitz until smooth (you may need to do this in two batches). Return to pan, taste, add salt if necessary, then reheat to serve
  • My pumpkins seem to be doing very well, although I am not sure they will be as big as I had hoped for Halloween …  they are ripening, and I am going to get some straw to rest them on, so they won’t rot before I need them.  I can’t wait for my leeks to be ready, which will probably not be for another month or so  …  they are looking good and have really benefited from all the recent rain.

    I have just taken delivery of some new Jumbo Jute Gardening Hessian Sacks, just in time for the Autumn leaves, which have just begun to fall from the trees ….  an essential aid for filling up and then dragging to  my compost bin!

    The chickens have enjoyed the dry summer and are still producing regular supplies of eggs for my family and friends  … two of them seem to be losing feathers from their chests, so my next job is to catch them, turn them upside down and hold them my their feet and inspect them for lice or other nasty parasites  …  not my favourite job I have to say!


    Cold Enough for Soup!

    Tuesday, May 4th, 2010

    I can’t believe how cold it has become again …  I even woke up this morning to frost on the roof of my car!  But luckily it hasn’t seemed to settle as low as my lettuces, and new potato shoots that have been emerging from the ground during the last week.  3 years ago we planted some asparagus plants in our vegetable patch, and somehow we managed to lose 2 of the plants the second year but the remaining plant has this year done exactly what it said on the label … started to produce really respectable looking asparagus spears!  My home grown spears are too precious to use to make soup, however my local farm shop and all the major supermarkets have shelves bursting with asparagus at the moment, so this weekend I used the last of my homegrown leeks and some of my white onions, with the shop bought asparagus and made some really delicious soup bursting with nutrients, and this is the recipe I used:

     

    FRESH ASPARAGUS SOUP

    • 800g asparagus, woody ends removed
    • lug of olive oil
    • 2 medium white onions, peeled and chopped
    • 2 sticks of celery, trimmed and copped
    • 2 leeks, trimmed and chopped
    • 2 litres good-quality chicken or vegetable stock, if preferred
    • sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

     

    Chop the tips off your asparagus and put these to one side for later. Roughly chop the asparagus stalks. Get a large, deep pan on the heat and add a good lug of olive oil. Gently fry the onions, celery and leeks for around 10 minutes, until soft and sweet, without colouring. Add the chopped asparagus stalks and stock and simmer for 20 minutes with a lid on. Remove from the heat and blitz with a hand-held blender or in a liquidizer. Season the soup with salt and pepper until just right. Put the soup back on the heat, stir in the asparagus tips, bring back to the boil and simmer for a few more minutes until the tips have softened.

    We ate the soup hot, but if the weather was warmer this soup is equally tasty served chilled.

    I have reason again to sprinkle EcoCharlie Natural Slug and Snail Deterrent in my vegetable patch.  Last year I vowed to never again buy a shop bought pumpkin for Halloween.   After a false start due to a mouse digging up the planted pumpkin seeds to eat, from the 4 little pots that were waiting to germinate in the potting shed, I was able to plant out the replacement seedlings that germinated in my conservatory!  I loaded the soil with some well roted compost, and once the plants were securely in the ground, I applied some Natural Slug and Snail Deterrent around each plant to save them from the next potential attack! 

    I am happy to say that the seed strips that I have been experimenting with, have all germinated and I have perfectly straight lines of well spaced rocket, beetroot and carrots emerging.  Also the first of the rhubarb is now ready to harvest, so I feel sure there will be a recipe to follow next time.   Anyway, must be off now ….   it’s time to give the hens their afternoon treat of mixed corn!


    Improving your soil.

    Monday, March 1st, 2010

    A few days ago I blogged about the importance of getting to know your soil, but, as vital as this knowledge is, it’s what you do next that really counts.  Once armed with the basics of your soil type and it’s strengths and weaknesses you can then set about planning how best to make improvements.

    Loam - the dream soil for any gardener.

    You can think of garden soils as being like the scoring areas of a dartboard, with bands and boxes of possible scores representing all the different varieties of soil. Some will deliver a higher “score” than others, allowing you to grow a wider and richer variety of garden plants, but the ultimate goal has to be the bull’s-eye, which, in the case of garden soils, is a rich, crumbly, open, humus-rich loam – think of worm-casts.

    The big difference between your garden and a dartboard, though, is that with a little help from you, the trusty gardener, your soil score can be shifted around and boosted in all sorts of ways, and eventually land right on that bull’s-eye.

    The general catch-all advice to apply compost whenever you plant anything and to mulch everything once a year is certainly a good start, but it’s by no means the end of the soil improvement story.

    Improving soil structure.

    The most common soil type is clay based and they tend to be sticky, dense and poorly drained, in extreme cases plants can essentially drown over winter with the roots rotting of into a big wet mush. Improving a clay soil means breaking up that dense structure by creating micro air pockets throughout, which will automatically improve drainage.

    Adding compost to clay might help initially, but within a matter of months that organic material will have been thoroughly assimilated and broken down by bacteria and you’re back to square one.

    Pea shingle - the number 1 remedy for opening up a heavy clay soil.

    The longer-term solution is to add in large quantities of inert, non-organic, (i.e. non break-down-able) material to open the structure and keep the clay particles apart permanently.

    Grit and/or pea shingle are what is needed, the exact quantities being dependant on just how much clay there is present in the soil.

    A general incorporation of any of these materials every time you dig, plant or work the soil will slowly improve conditions both for plants as well as for worms and other essential soil fauna.

    Composted bark.

    Beware of adding sand to a clay soil, the particles simply aren’t large enough to open up the dense clay and you’ll likely end up making a kind of home-grown garden cement mix instead.

    The next phase in all about keeping a good supply of coarse (and it must be coarse) organic mulch on the soil surface, ideally in bi-annual applications.

    Chunky composted bark is pretty much ideal for the task, as is semi-composted leaf mould.

    The aim here is not to feed the soil directly – clay soils are already naturally full of nutrition – but instead to feed those worms and myriad soil critters & micro-organisms who will then repay you by working, digging, digesting and opening up the soil 365 days a year.

    Improving soil moisture levels.

    Light soils – typically sand or chalk based – suffer from the opposite problem to clay soils. They drain beautifully, so nothing’s ever likely to drown, but they are very bad at retaining moisture and gardeners are likely to be forever watering and feeding to keep their plants looking spruce.

    Here the non-organic, inert parts of the ideal soil are already present, and you’ll certainly never have to add shingle to a sandy soil, but often the organic elements are sorely lacking.

    Humus is organic material that has been digested, and processed by soil bacteria until it has reached the point of stability – in other words it won’t break down any further, but neither will it disappear from the soil. With light soils the aim is always to increase the humus content, which in turn makes for a more porous, sponge-like soil that will retain water through dry spells, but still drain well in the wet.

    Leafmould - the most natural of all soil conditioners.

    Bulky, organic materials are the solution and your own garden compost is likely to be as good as anything, as well as being chemically harmonious with your garden (since all the leaves and garden debris originated from there in the first place!)

    Well-rotted farmyard manure and leaf mould also work well, and other options include old mushroom compost (which is very alkaline) and composted paper, spent brewery hops or seaweed.

    All of these should be added as a mulch, where, once again, the worms will do the rest for you.

    Mulching has the added benefit of insulating the soil from evaporation and should be considered pretty essential to help conserve moisture levels in lighter soils.

    Adding nutrition.

    Nutrition is not the same as structural bulk in a soil, although the most useful materials can certainly supply both. Most mulches, though, are not going to do anything for your soil nutrition levels, in fact they may even end up depleting nutrition as bacteria use up nitrogen to break down bulky material like wood and bark chips.

    The decomposition of organic matter – be it compost from your garden or manure from a farm – involves several phases, and it’s only during the final phase (when things are pretty much well and truly rotted) that nutrients are released back into the soil in a balanced and useful way.

    Horse Manure - well composted and ready for garden action.

    Quick fix plant feeds (be they liquid or solid, such as pelleted chicken manure) may feed individual plants but will generally leach away almost immediately and are of no lasting benefit to the general soil. The old maxim of “feed the soil not the plant” is definitely one to keep in mind.

    Well-rotted manure (preferably horse, though any large-ish herbivore that you happen to have handy will also supply the goods) is certainly the number one choice for adding slow release nutrition – principally nitrogen – into the soil. Bonemeal is also slow to break down and releases phosphorus as it decays, and wood ash (which like mushroom compost is strongly alkaline) will provide potassium.

    Together these are the three main elements for plant growth and will provide the recipe for effective and long-term soil nutrition.


    The fine art of composting.

    Monday, January 18th, 2010

    No matter what kind of garden you have, so long as soil features somewhere in the layout, there’s one essential feature that you can’t possibly do without, and that’s a compost heap.

    The archetypal garden compost heap - big and steamy.

    There are some pretty compelling reasons why every garden and gardener should get with the compost. Firstly it considerably reduces the amount of waste that your friendly bin-men have to cart off to the landfill site, and almost completely eliminates the organic part of that waste. This is crucial because, whilst plastics make up the largest bulk of landfill, it’s the rotting organic stuff that gives off substantial volumes of greenhouse gas in the form of methane.

    Secondly having a well-managed compost area will provide you with an ongoing supply of lovely crumbly goodness to put back into your garden.

    This will in turn feed and enrich your soil as well as improve its texture and quality, particularly if you garden on sandy or clay soils.

    Of course self-produced compost also reduces or, if you really go for it, completely removes the need to buy in expensive (and often environmentally suspect) composts. Many small to medium sized gardens are somewhat over-managed, with fallen leaves and green waste whisked away ASAP in a bid to keep things neat and tidy…. which is fine, but if you then throw those leaves away then you’re breaking the natural cycle of decay and rejuvenation of the soil. Solving two problems with one solution, home composting makes common sense really, and is perhaps the ultimate in local recycling.

    One of the other beauties is that composters do far more than digest fallen leaves; indeed leaves on their own tend not to produce very good compost. Aside from hefty chunks of wood pretty much any vegetable derived material can and should be composted. So we’re talking about lawn mowings and kitchen scraps like veg peelings, which are pretty obvious candidates perhaps, but also tissue, newspaper and cardboard along with all plant prunings and cut-down herbaceous material from the course of the year. It’s a good idea to keep something like a hessian sack to hand to collect all of your composting material ready for the heap. The only things you can’t effectively compost are animal derived materials, aside from egg shells – so no bones, meat leftovers or animal waste.

    The process that miraculously transforms so much waste into wonderful, rich dark compost is aerobic digestion. Bacteria, munch their way through your cast offs feeding on carbon and nitrogen whilst using oxygen and water to fuel their feast. All four of these elements (carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and water) are needed for the decomposition process to work properly.

    Wire compost bin - Simple but effective.

    Different types of material contribute different elements to the compost. Grass clippings and kitchen waste provide nitrogen, whilst newspaper and fallen leaves provide carbon, so it’s important to layer the different types of material as you add to your composter – alternate clippings, say, with newspaper, or autumn leaves with kitchen waste etc.

    As for the composters themselves, there are, of course, a variety of plastic Dalek-alikes readily available, but it’s much cheaper, and certainly not rocket science to make your own.

    Pallet composter, with carpet roof for insulation.

    For the smallest gardens a simple upright ring of heavy-duty meshed chicken wire will do the job, although they can also be insulated with old carpet for warmer, faster results.

    Alternatively bang four posts into the ground and attach fencing or wood pallets onto all four sides, to create a box unit.

    The front panel needs to be open-able or removable for access and turning of the compost, but otherwise you can use this basic principle to build to any scale that you want.

    For the largest gardens with the greatest compost input/output then a series of two or three wooden panel bins (ideally with wire sides to allow for good oxygenation) will work best.

    The grandaddy of composters - the 3-bin.

    In this system you move and turn the compost from one bin into it’s neighbour every 3 to 6 months allowing for a succession of compost at different stages of completion.

    Composters should be kept moist but never allowed to get truly wet. In summer, in particular, it pays to keep an eye on your compost and water it if it seems to be on the dry side whilst in winter, when the composting process slows down considerably, you might need to cover with sheeting to prevent water-logging. Turning your compost regularly will allow for good oxygenation and mixing of materials and will considerably speed up the whole composting process.

    The Wormery - an earthworm hotel.

    There is a tendency to tuck compost heaps and bins into the farthest, darkest and gloomiest reaches of the garden, but the microbes that are doing all the hard work also need warmth – the warmer the site the faster the composting process – so try to situate somewhere that receives at least a little sunlight and consider insulating with carpet.

    Another great option is the wormery. Wormeries are small-scale enclosed box structures, generally made of wood, which serve and board and lodgings for an extended family of gardeners-best-friends.

    The worms rapidly digest all of the same materials that would be suitable for composting and the end product is leachate, an extremely powerful and useful liquid fertiliser, along with small volumes of very high quality worm-cast compost.