News Tagged ‘Watering Device’

Planning for a greenhouse.

Monday, April 12th, 2010

Practical and functional, no garden should be without a greenhouse.

Installing a greenhouse is one of those pivotal moments for any gardener. Having a covered area in the garden, be it a conservatory, porch or even a cloche or cold frame, greatly enhances the scope of what you can grow and when, but once you have a greenhouse you’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.

Greenhouses create longer growing seasons, provide protection, warmth and additional humidity for their leafy occupants. They allow you to grow entire ranges of plants, both edible and ornamental, that wouldn’t otherwise be possible.

Seeds can be sown much earlier and bulbs and containers started safely into growth in late winter or early spring. Perhaps most important of all, greenhouses also provide a sheltered, dry and wind-proofed working environment which will work wonders to encourage you out into the garden on otherwise grey, cold and uninviting days.

Site.

A wooden potting table - essential greenhouse kit.

Generally speaking you might have only limited possible sites available in your garden, or quite possibly no choice whatsoever as to where to situate a greenhouse. There is a temptation to locate them as you would a shed – i.e. tucked away out of site in an unused and probably uncultivatable corner of the garden.
Unless you’re planning to house a specialist fern collection in your greenhouse, this kind of location is really not going to work. Another common mistake is to situate with the longest side facing due south into the sun. This will create unfeasibly high summer temperatures and you may end up oven-baking all your plants as a result; at best you will be continually struggling to keep ventilation and humidity high enough and may end up having to shade the entire greenhouse in an effort to keep things stable.

Where possible the very best site will have the longest sides of the greenhouse facing east and west, the door/ventilation end facing south and the northern end against the protection of a wall, hedge of fence.

Choice of greenhouse.

A typical flat-pack aluminium greenhouse.

The best value greenhouses are those that come flat packed for self-assembly. If you have the patience and (ideally) a couple of willing helpers on hand then these aluminium and glass constructions are extremely good value and can provide an ideal solution.

Go for the very largest size that you can afford and can accommodate. You may not think that you’ll fill up all that space, but believe me, no matter how large your greenhouse you will soon find yourself wishing you could squeeze in a little more.

Also the larger the enclosed space the more stable the humidity, temperature and environment within, and the less susceptible it will be to heat loss overnight and over-heating during the day.

Finally, ventilation is an absolutely part of any greenhouse so make sure that yours has as much as is available, preferably allowing for a cross flow of air from end to end and/or side to side of the structure.

Access to services.

In order to make the most of your greenhouse you will need access to electricity and a water supply. Once you have a collection of plants under glass you will want to ensure they don’t get hammered by extremes of cold, and, depending on what you are growing, you may also need to guarantee a frost free environment year round.

A water butt set up to collect run-off from the greenhouse roof.

There are a variety of gas heaters available, but they can be tricky to run and expensive to buy. The best of them also need to be installed by a qualified engineer, and might end up costing more than the greenhouse itself. Having power available in your greenhouse will allow for cheap and easy low level heating if and when it’s needed and of course will also allow you to add a light for those dark winter days.

Access to water is even more important, since you’re going to be using this, quite possibly on a daily basis, for a large portion of the year. Consider installing a tap or at least running a dedicated hose to the greenhouse, and most definitely install a water butt to capture the rain that falls on the large glass surface of your greenhouse. Using captured rainwater not only makes good environmental and economic sense but is also far better for all plants, and absolutely essential for the likes of Orchids & carnivorous plants as well as many seedlings.

Think also about your own access to and from the greenhouse and consider adding some additional paving or gravel in order to keep the entrance clean and prevent mud being traipsed in from a soggy wet garden.

Cleanliness.

All of the warm, humid & sheltered conditions that allow for great plant growth will also create an outstanding breeding ground for fungi, bacteria and plant viruses, not to mention weeds and a whole gaggle of flying insect pests. Keep work surfaces, glass and flooring clean, tidy and hygienic and you will greatly reduce the opportunities for any of these nasties to gain a foothold.

Greenhouses are not garden sheds and should not be used as dumping grounds for all the things that you want to tidy away – the transparent sides should put the kibosh on that idea anyhow, since everything inside is effectively still on display.

Equipping a greenhouse.

There are a few useful bits of kit that you should have lined up ready for your new glassy space. Top of the list is a solid, steady work surface set at a height comfortable for you to work with and strong enough to hold pots, compost and whatever else you’re likely to need. Consider using a table and perching seat – they don’t take up much room and make can make working conditions far more comfortable.

Working tray.

A large, shallow sided tray is also pretty essential. This will allow you to do a whole range of gardening tasks – mix composts, pot up plants, turn out old pots etc. – and all in contained, clean and hygienic conditions.

You’re also going to need an easily accessible and preferably containerised or divided tidy or storage area for tools, labels, pens, ties, plant foods and so on. Think about layout too, and where best to accommodate composts, pots, trays, canes and all the other items so that they are ready for use.

I like to have two separate bins running in the greenhouse. In fact it’s the very first thing that I set up and won’t start any work without them, as it’s amazing how much debris you produce whilst working in a greenhouse. Much of it can be composted, but some things, like old broken plastic pots and seeds trays or diseased plant material, need to be kept separate for waste disposal.

Shade netting - have some on hand long before it's likely to be needed.

Tools will vary according to your needs and the nature of what you will be growing, but secateurs, scissors, a hand watering can and a couple of sprays are all pretty indispensible in my experience.

Finally, unless you have indeed been forced to locate your greenhouse in a dark, shady corner where a shed might otherwise live, then you will almost certainly need some shading ready for extremes of temperature.

You can easily attach shading net to the inside or your glass walls, and some greenhouses come with their own shading systems too, but in either case you’ll need to have it ready to use well in advance of summer.


Planting trees (and shrubs too…).

Friday, February 12th, 2010

An old gardening book of mine quotes the owner of a large country estate (one which boasts an impressive collection of rare trees) as saying that he paid: “a shilling for the tree and a pound for the hole,” the pound being the cost of the labour involved to dig a sufficient hole. This quote has always stuck with me, and generally runs through my mind pretty much every time I plant anything larger than a bulb.

Prunus incisa - a pretty flowering cherry that makes an ideal garden tree.

The simple fact is that, once planted, trees and larger shrubs will likely never be moved, and, if all goes well, will remain in place for decades or even centuries to come. Aside from mulching, the only chance that you will ever have to improve the structure of the ground where they will grow is at the time of planting. Bearing that in mind it has to be well worthwhile putting in the time and effort to ensure your spindly sapling will one day grow into a mighty tree (or shrub…)

Although it’s possible, with care, to plant at any time of the year, by far the best seasons are  late autumn and the early spring, when the plants will be dormant and will suffer far less shock than they would in the growing season. The ideal weather is cloudy, cool, windless and most definitely frost-free, so if necessary delay planting until suitable conditions occur.

It was long thought by many that the most important factor in tree planting was the fertilisation of the ground, with the addition of composts, manures and so on. Research has now shown this to be not the case; in fact the fertilisation of your planting hole is actually likely to prove harmful, or even fatal to new trees, the emphasis instead is all on the preparation of the hole itself.

Planting hole preparation - the most important job of all.

Generally speaking the bigger the planting hole the better. The aim is to break up as large an area of soil as possible, not in terms of depth, but rather width, because it’s here that your tree will be making it’s initial forays into it’s new soil.

How big is big? Certainly the planting hole should be considerably larger than the root ball of your new tree and none of the roots should have to be bent or curled to fit in.

It’s important to plant on the same day as you dig the hole as exposure to the elements will kill off many of the beneficial micro-organisms, and in particular the fungi that are present in the soil. Microrrhizal fungi are amongst the most essential members of the subterranean community as far as plants are concerned, and most trees actually derive much of their nutrition not directly from the soil, but rather from these fungi with whom they set up a symbiotic relationship.

Mound planting - to help trees establish on wet ground.

It’s often necessary to be a bit flexible with your planting location too. If you dig down and find standing water or a layer of bedrock, for instance then it’s best to stop right there and consider a new spot.

Having said that trees can be planted in wet sites by mounding soil up above ground level. We’ve taken this approach is a seasonally wet patch of our garden where we have succeeded in establishing a number of Acer palmatum by planting each one on a large mound as much as 60cm above the natural ground level.

In very dry locations you can take the opposite approach and plant in a dip so that any rain-water that happens by will be diverted to the roots of your tree. Be very, very wary, though, of creating a sump that collects water all year round, roots need oxygen as well as water so this is a quick recipe for a drowned plant.

Staking - short and sweet.

Before reaching for the tree, the next step is to consider staking. Unless your new arrival is on the short and stocky side then it’s often necessary to secure by tying to a stake. This makes sure then tree isn’t rocked – or even uprooted – in the wind and will allow it to properly establish at the roots.

Stakes should be short but sturdy – always thicker than the tree itself. It doesn’t matter if the top of the tree moves around (within reason), in fact it promotes thickening of the trunk, and if you stake too high you will end up with a perpetually spindly trunk that may never be able to support itself.

Securely drive the stake into the planting hole on the side of the prevailing wind and make sure you have a good, durable tie to hand – preferably rubber or plastic to minimise rubbing – and long enough to secure the tree but still allow for some movement and flexing, again to encourage strengthening of the trunk.

A rootbound pot-grown tree.

Once the hole is prepared you can unwrap or un-pot your tree or shrub and take a good look at its root system. My experience of planting many thousands of trees and shrubs is that unless the roots are relatively free and open then establishment will be delayed, often for several years. This is particularly key if your tree has been pot-grown.

If the roots are looking bound-together and have spiralled around the inside of the pot, and a gentle shaking and teasing won’t budge them, then the best remedy is to soak or hose away some (or even most) of the compost to try to free the roots without breaking them.

Next mound up a small amount of the top soil that you’ve previously removed into the centre of the planting hole until the tree sits with the base of it’s stem/trunk at the natural surrounding ground level. This level is really crucial. If you plant too deep, with the trunk collar under ground level, then the bark at the base of the tree will almost certainly rot off and the tree will be killed. Too high and the roots will be exposed, severely weakening, and probably destabilising the whole plant.

Then, breaking up all large clumps of soil that you’ve dug out, and crumbling everything into as fine a tilth as possible (again to allow quick and easy root penetration) quickly infill the rest of the planting hole and gently press in with your hands – not with a big stomping, root and air crushing boot! – then water thoroughly to let the soil settle into the hole.

The only material that goes back into the planting hole should be that which came out – or if it’s very poor or stony, other topsoil from as near as possible to the planting hole.

Why not take the opportunity to add lots of juicy well rotted manure or compost to feed the tree? The breaking down of this type of material completely changes the soil chemistry near the tree roots. It robs the soil of oxygen for it’s own decomposition, kills most of the beneficial, but very delicate fungi, and creates excess moisture that leads to root rot. Fertilisers also promote excess shoot and leaf growth, but do nothing for the root system, and will leave the tree with a desperate imbalance that may result in massive die-back as time passes.

Betula nigra - the river birch: well mulched, grass-free and thriving.

Finally it’s important to protect the new tree from competition for water from weeds, and particularly grass – vital if planting in a lawn or field. So once safely planted and staked the planting hole should then be mulched.

We use purpose made mulch mats, which fit flat over the planting hole and give years of protection as they slowly decompose. Well composted bark or garden compost is another, and more attractive alternative for the garden, but be sure to leave the trunk itself mulch-free or you’ll invite basal bark rot once again.

All that then remains is to keep well watered during dry spells, particularly for the first few years, and top up with an annual mulch. Then, sit back and enjoy the fruits of your one-days-labour for many, many years to come.


Container gardening.

Friday, January 29th, 2010

The very first garden that I was able to call my own was not located in the most promising site – a small, rather shady yard (courtyard would be way too grand a term) bounded by ageing wooden fences and with a solid concrete floor. Over a period of a few years I filled this little space with many dozens (possibly hundreds) of different plants that together created a little green oasis that carpeted the floor and covered the fences.

Massed containers create a dense green wall.

That garden was in East London, and, although I didn’t know it at the time, I was one of many gardeners worldwide who were exploring the limits of both their site and their plants by container gardening.

In theory you can grow literally any plant in a container.

Having seen Italian nurseries pot-growing full size, mature trees, many decades old and of many species, I can testify that the only limits are those imposed by the grower, rather than the plants – in other words, if you’re going to grow a 50 year old Magnolia in a giant barrel then you need to accept that it’s going to take some looking after.

Literally any space can be greened.

The benefits of container growing, on any scale, are considerable. For starters you can grow all manner of plants that would otherwise be unsuitable for your garden soil (assuming you have any). Want a Rhododendron collection but garden on chalk? No problem with containers. Want to grow Mediterranean herbs but have a cold, damp site? Again, it’s containers to the rescue.

Many urban gardens – like my old site – have no soil at all, and so containers can bring flowers and greenery to the most unlikely sites. Even those living in flats can use balconies, rooftops and window-boxes to green things up. The sky is quite literally the limit.

Silver, with black and blue, works well in a contemporary urban setting.

Even if you have a perfectly acceptable garden with lovely soil and a decent aspect, then containers still have much to offer. They allow you to bring plants up close to the house when they are at their flowering peak, and then rotate them away once they have passed. All manner of bright annuals can be used for temporary displays of colour, if that’s your thing, and you can endlessly rearrange your displays as if you were dressing a stage set.

Containers are also perfect for growing semi-hardy or even entirely tropical plants outdoors whilst the weather allows it, and those same plants can then be spirited away to the cosseting warmth of a greenhouse, or even indoors, when things start to cool off. Container growing is not just about ornament though, almost all herbs, vegetables, and some fruits can also been easily pot-grown, and in many cases actually provide for easier, less maintenance intensive cultivation too.  The key word is definitely versatility. Containers allow you to grown far more, for far longer, in far more places, than would even otherwise be possible.

A perfect carrot crop from a terracotta pot.

As far as the containers themselves go, again, the only limits are those of your imagination. Traditional pots come in three basic types – plastic, terracotta and fired/glazed clay. But of course there are also many purpose made metal pots, not to mention wooden barrels and even stoneware available these days. You can, of course, recycle pretty much any receptacle that takes your fancy – old basins and baths are popular choices, but, again, there are no real limits, and remember you can always paint, mosaic or otherwise decorate your chosen container if the shape is right but the colour is wrong.

From a practical point of view there are a few key things to consider when deciding on containers. First off is drainage. I have, on many occasions, come across plants grown in containers with absolutely no drainage holes in the bottom. It sounds obvious perhaps, but not all “pots” come with drainage. Unless you’re planning a bog garden in a pot (which is quite possible, of course) then no plant wants to be sitting in water, and you absolutely must make sure there are good, large drainage holes in your container, which may well mean enlarging upon the holes that are already there.

Ultra chic - architectural Restios.

Secondly think about the stability of your container and the plants you intent to grow. Plastic pots are very lightweight and easily blown over, particularly when they’re housing tall, top-heavy plants. At best this can simply be an annoyance, but at worst you may wake to find your favourite container plant has been smashed to bits in a gale. Taller plants often need additional support, regardless of the weight of the container they are in, so you might want to position near a wall or fence.

As to the compost in the pot, the two key factors are drainage (once again) and body. Different plants will, of course, require rather different recipes of compost, grit, bark chip etc., but in general drainage in any container is much worse than in the open ground, so most plants will require a relatively open compost with fairly large sized particles. This is why clay-based garden soil is not a great choice for a pot – try to water the plant and the whole thing turns into a sludgy mush.

Alpines in an weathered metal trough.

Which brings me to the one downside of container gardening – to have any hope of doing well plants in pots need a whole lot more attention than they do in the ground.

On a hot day in summer containers may well need to be watered twice a day, and even through the rest of the year, including winter, they will need to be kept moist. Rainfall, no matter how heavy, is no substitute for a good soak with a hose or can. You can reduce these watering needs by using a simple automatic watering system, and also by incorporating water-retaining granules into the compost mix.

Proprietary potting composts only have 1 to 2 months food supply built in, so after that it’s all up to you, and most plants will require fortnightly feeding throughout the growing season if they are not to start to look sulky and impoverished. Again, this can be reduced if you incorporate slow release fertiliser granules in the compost mix, but even they will only last for one season, and unless you’re growing annuals then you will eventually have to start a liquid feeding regime – comfrey juice is ideal for veg and many herbaceous plants too.

Plastic sacks make unconventional but effective containers.

The other main factors to consider are about protection, from pests and from the weather.

All of the usual range of garden pests and diseases are equally likely to occur in container grown plants, and a few – notably of the mollusc and vine weevil variety – can be more problematic. Natural slug and snail deterrents consisting of sharp shards can by easily employed on the compost surface in pots and provide an effective barrier. It’s also worth checking under the containers themselves, where you’re likely to find all of the above mentioned little critters will have set up home.

Plants in pots are always going to be more vulnerable to extremes of weather, from hot and dry to cold and wet. Of course the advantage of a container is that often you can simply relocate it to a more hospitable location when weather threatens, but the largest containers may well have to stay put. In winter consider insulating pots with fleece or bubblewrap and, depending on what you’re growing, the plants themselves may require the protection of hessian or fleece tied around them.

Exotica like these tender Cannas make for perfect container subjects.

Heat can be just as damaging, and a dark coloured pot (particularly a black plastic pot) can heat up in full summer sun to the extent that the roots of the plant contained within are cooked and killed. Teracotta is breathable, and provides a much more stable temperature, but even so you may want to consider relocating or shading certain plants and containers for a time.

On balance, though, unless you’re container gardening on an industrial scale, the huge benefits greatly outweigh the maintenance efforts required.

From herbs and fresh fruit right outside the kitchen door, to barrel-fulls of bright seasonal annuals, to tropical wonders on rooftops, to wall-clothing Wisterias and evergreen Clematis on patios, containers are the answer.