News Tagged ‘Slug Killer’

T is for Trillium.

Friday, April 2nd, 2010

Amongst the most prized of all spring flowering plants are the Trilliums, a uniformly fascinating, beautiful and nearly unique genus of 43 species native to North America with a small handful hailing from Asia.

Trillium grandiflorum f. roseum

Whilst any display of spring flowering perennials is a pretty magical site, pushing, as they do, from near barren ground to display their flowering and leafy wears for all to see, there is definitely something really special about Trilliums.

They are the kind of plant that, when in flower, will cause even the most jaded non gardener to stop and stare, alongside the many converts and aficionados who will doubtless already be drooling with delight.

Trillium basics.

Trilliums grow from fleshy underground rhizomes (swollen stems) each of which produces just one single growth point. In mid spring – typically April in the UK – this slowly enlarges to form a single upright stem with a whorl of leaves on top of which opens a single flower. Over time these rhizomes reproduce themselves and form new growth points and eventually spread to create whole colonies.

Trillium chloropetalum.

There are, broadly speaking, two different groups of Trillium, each characterised by the flower, which either grows directly from the centre of the leaves, and is rigidly upright, or is held aloft on a short stem, and is often nodding.

The leaves of some species are almost as decorative as the flowers, being large, heart-shaped, and splashed, patterned  and blotched with silvery/grey/green, whilst flowers vary from snow white to pink and yellow with a large number of intense crimson, red-violet and blood red. These are plants that aren’t shy about making their presence felt in the garden, that’s for sure.

Cultivation.

Trillium cuneatum.

It’s fair to say that Trilliums come with something of a reputation for being hard to grow successfully. This reputation undoubtedly puts many gardeners off trying the plants, which is a shame, because, given half-decent conditions Trilliums are not problematic in any way and clumps will slowly enlarge and persist for many decades with really very little care, attention or intervention.

One thing that certainly is  true is that plants can be slow to establish, particularly if they are planted as dormant rhizomes. In fact they can sulk and fail to appear above ground at all for the first year – during which time they are actually making new roots and seeking to establish themselves into their new site.

Trillium flexipes.

All Trilliums are much better planted whilst in growth, preferable from freshly divided or already potted specimens, when they should get away quite happily and establish more readily.

In the wild Trilliums are plants of the forest floor, emerging before the leaves on the trees above them, and fading away by mid summer. Once established they can tolerate relatively dry conditions, but for the first year or so they benefit greatly from being kept moist.

Soil should be humus rich and well drained and the position should ideally provide dappled shade – just like any woodland floor in fact.

Trillium underwoodii.

The Asiatic species are much less frequently seen in cultivation and all prefer a richer, more moist soil. In the wild they often associate with bog margin plants like Skunk Cabbages (Lysichiton spp.) and given sufficient moisture at the roots these species they will also tolerate a sunnier spot than their American cousins.

Two species (T. undulatum and T. nivale) lovely though they both are, are much tougher to please and can’t really be considered suitable for garden cultivation outside the preserve of specialist collections.

Propagation.

Trillium erectum.

Most Trillium are pretty slow to bulk themselves up and it’s the patient gardener who gets to dig up and divide his or her clumps. Some species, though, do spread more rapidly and a few forms and hybrids, in particular, have proven to be keener to bulk up, but none could possibly ever be accused of being vigorous.

In the wild, of course, the species spread themselves pretty successfully by seed, and for a few lucky gardeners their plants do the same job without any assistance. Generally though Trillium seed is slow to germinate and the young plants painfully slow to mature to flowering size – four to seven years being the norm.

It’s this slowness to mature and reproduce that has given Trilliums their rather unjustified reputation for being tough to cultivate. Once you’ve seen a North American woodland floor carpeted, bluebell-like, with Trilliums, out-competing rival plants as far as the eye can see, you’ll have a tough job to believe that these guys could possibly be hard to grow!

Pests.

Trillium luteum.

Trilliums are pretty tough customers, absolutely bone hardy and, happily, are not attractive to many pests. Slugs and snails can be troublesome but are easily repelled from individual plants or small colonies, and it’s definitely worth protecting those beautiful leaves from being munched.

Rhizomes can rot when the plants are dormant if the soil is allowed to get saturated or is very poorly drained, and plants can retreat back under ground in severely dry conditions, but that’s about it in terms of common problems.

Trillium species.

Although some of the species are extremely expensive and rarely offered for sale there are a decent number of species and a few varieties that are fairly widely available and at reasonable prices.

Trillium grandiflorum double.

T. grandiflorum is the most widespread species, both in the wild and in cultivation, and makes for an excellent introduction to the genus. The flowers are large, sideways facing, pure white and very showy.

There are also a handful of extremely choice double-flowered cultivars as well as a beautiful pink form in cultivation. T. ovatum, is similar although smaller flowered, whilst T. cernuum and T. catesbaei have nodding flowers in white, often flushed with pink. T. flexipes is another widespread white flowered species, and one of the most willing to increase itself in cultivation.

T. rugalii is a particularly beautiful species. The nodding white flowers have heavily recurved petals that display a central contrasting ovary of deep maroon red.

Trillium albidum.

T. albidum is another gem, with upright flowers of white veined with rosy purple. It’s also gorgeously fragrant, reminding me of violets and roses. T. erectum is another widespread and easy species with recurving flowers of intense crimson red.

Probably the showiest of all Trilliums though are those with upright flowers of deep blackish maroon-red held over very large, marble-patterned leaves. There are a number of closely related species (T. cuneatum, T. sessile, T. chloropetalum & T. kurabayashii are the most widely cultivated, T. decumbans, T. underwodii & T. maculatum the most spectacular) that are variations on the same theme. They can be tough to distinguish from one another, and many in cultivation are wrongly labelled in any case, but they are all nothing short of awesome when in growth, so you won’t go far wrong with any of them.

Trillium flexipes hybrid.

There are several yellow flowered forms of different species, but the widespread T. luteum is always lemon-yellow and is the only yellow Trillium likely to be encountered in this country.

Several species naturally hybridise in the wild and others have been crossed in cultivation.

Although these hybrids aren’t often available, they are almost always extremely beautiful and highly unusual – as well as easily grown – so it’s definitely worth seeking them out whenever possible.


Introducing the girls!

Wednesday, March 31st, 2010

 

I have 5 hens, which were an Easter present to  my family last year.  We have one each, and they are different colours so we can tell them apart, and on average they lay 4 eggs a day. My hen lays the most beautiful blue eggs, and the others lay a variety of brown shelled eggs,  and I have to say, although possibly biased, that once you produce your own eggs from home, free range eggs from the shop have never tasted or looked as amazing as my ones!  My hens graze on about an acre of grass, and it is the grass that makes the egg yolks the most stunning saffron yellow colour.  When I have some extra eggs that need using, and rather than give them away to my friends and neighbours, which I do from time to time, there are several recipes I like to make, and this one for lemon meringue tart has a feeling of Spring about it I think.

LEMON MERINGUE TART

Filling:

1 x 95g  large all-butter sweet pastry case from Marks and Spencer

4 egg yolks

1 x 397g tin condensed milk

freshly squeezed juice and zest from 4 unwaxed lemons

Topping:

4 egg whites

220g caster sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

Method:

Preheat oven to 150 C (300 F) Gas 2

Separate the eggs, and put the egg yolks, condensed milk and lemon juice and zest in a bowl and mix gently with a hand whisk or balloon whisk until all the ingredients are combined.  The mixture will thicken naturally.

Put the pastry case on a flat baking sheet, and poor the mixture into the pastry case and bake in a pre-heated oven for about 20 minutes, until the filling is firm to the touch, but still soft in the centre (not wobbly!)  Leave to cool completely, and then cover with film, and chill for a minimum of an hour, or overnight if you have time.

Whisk the egg whites in a large bowl with an electric hand whisk, until they form soft peaks.  Carefully whisk in the sugar a little at a time, and add a couple of drops of vanilla extract, and whisk again until stiff peaks form. Spoon the meringue on to the top of the cold tart, covering the lemon filling. Create peaks and swirls in the top of the meringue with the back of a table spoon.

Bake in the pre-heated oven for about 20 minutes or until the meringue is golden brown and crisp to the touch.  leave to cool before serving.

I am just of out to  my potting shed  …  I have potatoes in there chitting but a mouse has started to nibble the new shoots off a couple, so I am going to move them indoors!  I am keen to plant out my lettuce plants but the weather is so unsettled ..  I have my stock of slug and snail deterrent on hand so that when the time is right to plant out, no one will be eating the lettuce but me!  I also have some more parsnips to dig, and I have a lovely recipe for Curried Parsnip Soup to share soon…


Growing from seed.

Monday, March 15th, 2010

Growing your own plants from seed is surely one of the most satisfying tasks in all of gardening. You save (often considerable) amounts of money, you have full control over what you grow and how (so you can be sure that the whole process has been organic, for example) and you can often grow all sorts of plants (both ornamental and edible) that you wouldn’t otherwise be able to find.

Seed strategies.

Crocus seeds, cleaned and ready for sowing.

In nature plants and their seeds have evolved a whole range of strategies and timetables to ensure successful germination, so, before you begin it’s pretty important to know a little bit about whatever it is you’re trying to grow.

Plants that flower early in the growing season typically (though not always) produce seed that germinates quickly, with the new plant-lets growing to reasonable maturity in their first year. If they are perennials those young plants will then be able to harden off and over-winter successfully.

Later flowering plants (including most trees and shrubs) generally produce larger seeds that come with a more substantial built-in food supply and reinforced protection. Their strategy is to over-winter as a seed and germinate the following season (or sometimes the one after that) with rising spring temperatures. This gives the young plants an entire growing season to reach sufficient maturity to make it through the next winter.

Germination.

Whichever natural cycle your seeds are on your job is to mimic the conditions that would naturally trigger their germination.

Apart from very specialist seed (some employ fire or the digestive juices of animals for instance) there are three key factors that determine when a seed will germinate: temperature, light levels and water.

With those quick germinators – anything from 48 hours to a few weeks – this means picking a sowing time and location that will be warm, light and moist enough to trigger germination more or less immediately.

Slow germinators almost always require a cold dormancy period (known as stratification) that mimics winter, followed by a rise in temperature and light levels that signals the arrival of spring.

Timing.

Quick germinating seed can be sown outdoors once spring is well underway and temperatures are not going to dip below freezing point. Depending on what plants you’re growing the seed can be sown directly into the position that you want the final plants to be in (as you might with some vegetables or wild flowers) or into pots or seed trays, which gives considerably more flexibility in terms of end location and seedling care.

Outdoor germination can be slow and erratic (much like the weather that triggers it) and the process can be sped up considerably by artificially boosting temperatures. Even the protection of an unheated greenhouse will make a big difference, and a heated frame or an indoor windowsill will be quicker still.

Seed prepared for fridge stratification.

When germinating seed indoors it’s important not to start them off too early or the light levels will be insufficient to support the seedlings and you’ll end up with weak, spindly plants that are forever trying to reach the light. Generally, any time from early spring is ideal.

Seed that requires a period of stratification can be sown into pots outdoors in autumn and, so long as they are protected from marauding seed-eaters, they will germinate naturally with the coming Spring.

Alternatively you can provide an artificial dormancy by sealing the seed, together with a little compost, in small plastic bags into the fridge for 60 to 90 days before sowing in the usual way. This strategy that allows such seed to be started at any convenient time of the year.

Sowing.

If you are sowing in any way besides using the open ground then you really only need four things for your seeds: a container, some compost a transparent cover and a label.

The container can be a plant pot or a purpose made seed tray, but old margarine and fruit and vegetable containers do at least as good a job – make sure they have lots of drainage holes puncturing the base though.

Compost should be very free draining. Seeds germinate very well in pure perlite, vermiculite, fine grit or coarse sand, although they will need to be moved on whilst still very young before they exhaust their in-built food supply. A 50/50 mixture of any of those same materials with a good compost is ideal and will allow the seedlings to stay in their nursery a good deal longer.

Scattering to sow medium/fine seed.

I like to sterilise everything – pots, and compost – with boiling water first, it prevents or at least reduces the occurrence of algal slimes, mosses and other wind-blown seeds that would otherwise hinder the new seedlings.

Fill your chosen container around 2/3 full of the compost mix, and sow the seeds onto the surface.

Very fine seed can be scattered, larger seeds placed and spaced individually, taking care not to sow too many into one container  – much better to save some seed or sow a second or third potful.

The sown seeds should then be covered to roughly their own depth with compost, or better still with sterilised perlite, vermiculite, fine grit or coarse sand. Very fine seed does not need to be covered at all, and can simply be surface sown.

New seedlings in a plastic-bag tent.

Don’t forget to label your seeds at this stage. It’s useful to add the date of sowing along with the name of the plant and possibly, with larger seeds at least, the number that were sown, which helps you keep an eye on germination rates

The final, but crucially important stage is to cover the whole pot. You can use a sheet of glass, cling-film or plastic, but I find the best strategy is to use a clear plastic bag to form a little tent that can be secured with a rubber band if it’s not the greatest fit.

The bag creates a little mini-greenhouse, with a stable environment that allows full light through but keeps a high and even moisture level where no watering is required.

Pricking out.

Carefully potting up a young seedling following pricking out.

Once the seeds have germinated they can be left in their little tented pots for quite some time, depending on how large the young plants are.

The plastic bags should be pierced to gradually acclimatise the seedlings to the lower humidity levels outside. Within a few days the bags can be removed altogether and the pots placed in a light, protected position, which may be indoors or outdoors depending on temperatures/seasons etc.

Once they are strong and stable enough the young plants can be pricked out, either for further growing on in individual pots or for planting in their final positions.

If using a margarine pot or similar it’s easiest to cut the pot open and gently divide the seedlings up. Whatever type of container they have been germinated in it’s crucial to avoid any damage to the young root systems and very delicate stems at this stage and the seedlings should only be handled by their leaves.

Young Sarracenia plants - potted up and growing on.

As ever, replant with the compost same level that the plants were at in their germination pots and, if potting on, you can now use a slightly richer, and more compost-rich (though still very free draining) mixture to help feed the plants.

Remember to keep an eye out for slugs and snails and position/protect accordingly – just one rampaging mollusc that can almost instantly decimate an entire crop of new seedlings.


Plant Pests – Ten Top Organic Solutions.

Monday, March 8th, 2010

With Spring temperatures rising daily it won’t be long before a new wave of crawling, wriggling and flying invertebrates make their way to our gardens to see what juicy new fare we’ve thoughtfully supplied them with.

Always remember, though, that there are an equal number of beneficial insects (not to mention birds, amphibians and mammals) out there in the garden, so any artificial intervention, even of the organic variety, needs to be well targeted and used with thought and care. So without further ado…

Companion planting.

Basil - the pungent odour repels many insect pets.

This is where you truly get the plants to do the work for you, and is particularly useful (essential even) when growing vegetables.

Very many plants contain an array of chemicals that have evolved as natural insect defence mechanisms. Different chemicals occur in different plants and in different parts of plants too, and there are a huge number of proven combinations that will have a dramatic effect on pest numbers in the garden.

A few examples include:

Basil, planted with tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, asparagus or any ornamental susceptible to aphid damage; borage, also with tomatoes as well as strawberries; garlic with cucumber, peas, lettuce, carrots & celery; alliums with fruit trees; geraniums with roses and all brassicas.

Attract the predators.

An adult Green Lacewing - one of the gardeners top allies.

Whilst you might imagine that the presence of, say, aphids or Cabbage White caterpillars in your garden will be enough to draw the crowds of beneficial insects, these helpful beasties also require additional food sources, particularly pollen and nectar rich flowers.

A number of herbs, including borage, chamomile, hyssop, lovage, and in particular thyme are extremely attractive to a hoverflies, bees, wasps and parasitic wasps, all of whom you most definitely want on-side.

Ladybirds and lacewings – both amongst the most voracious or garden predators – will flock to angelica, yarrow, dill, fennel, tansy and coriander.

Birds will be drawn by bird-feeders and water, and amphibians by the presence of a pond, and all will stay to dispatch countless pests.

Mollusc barriers.

Laying a beer trap.

Snails and slugs hate crossing sharp, spiky materials and surrounding individual plants or indeed entire beds will create a natural boundary that keeps the molluscs out.

Grit and crushed eggshells are often used, but ceramic shards go one better by actually absorbing the mucus trail of any slug or snail that attempts top breach the defence, preventing any slimy progress.

Meanwhile, outside the barrier you can lay down traps to collect the little beasties. Stones, wood, carpet, or any dark, flat object that well keep moist through the day will provide an ideal hideout for slugs and snails and handily concentrates them ready for collection. Good old-fashioned beer traps – jam-jars or old yoghurt pots half-filled with beer and part-sunk into the ground – will also collect droves of drunken drowned molluscs.

Garlic and chilli spray.

This is a pretty well known brew with a wide variety of recipes and an even wider variety of garden applications. The basic idea is to combine two of natures most powerful and pungent agents into one pest-fighting force. Take 2 whole bulbs of garlic with half a dozen small, hot chillies, add 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil, 1 dessertspoon of liquid soap (to improve adhesion) and 3 cups of water.  Blend the whole mixture thoroughly, strain out the lumps and then add an additional 4 cups of water to dilute the liquid for spraying.

The garlic will deter almost everything from attempting to eat any foliage that has been so treated, whilst the fiery chilli will kill all sap-suckers and leaf-munchers on contact, so you get a double whammy effect. This heady mixture may burn young foliage, so you might want to dilute further, or test on a small section first.

Batter red spider mites.

Batter? Surprisingly perhaps I’m not suggesting coshing mites over their tiny arachnid heads, but am actually referring to the kitchen variety batter. A few tablespoons of flour, blended together with around a cup each of milk and water will smother and suffocate Red Spider Mite – a particularly pernicious little pest that thrives in dry conditions and in greenhouses.

Soap.

Liquid detergents (i.e. washing up liquid) are well known for smothering and killing aphids and various other sap-suckers. The trouble is that the surfactants in most detergents do not readily break down in the environment, and have been shown to cause more problems than some herbicides and pesticides. Vegetable based liquid soaps, however, will do just the same job without any of the potential hazards. The soap and water mix won’t do much to deter future pests and will quite quickly dissipate, but can provide the ideal instant solution for a newly-spotted infestation.

Rhubarb tea.

Rhubarb leaves.

The leaves of Rhubarb plants contain natural toxins that you can easily employ in the fight against aphids, white fly and caterpillars.

All you need to do is harvest some of leaves, chop them into small-ish pieces, add some water and bring to the boil. Leave the mixture to steep for a few days, after which time you can strain and bottle the juice which can be sprayed over the plants with the problem pests. The juice should be diluted to the colour of weak tea and the addition of a few drops of liquid soap will encourage it to stick to the foliage more effectively.

Molasses and vinegar.

Another rather unlikely spray that is easily put together uses a blend of 1 tablespoon of molasses with ¼ litre of vinegar and ¾ litre of water. This can be applied on a weekly basis to any and all plants (edible and otherwise) that are susceptible to predation by sawflies, moths or butterflies and should prevent eggs from being laid and cut the cycle off before it even starts.

Sticky yellow stuff.

Whiteflies - much enlarged from lifesize (luckily!)

Infestations of Whitefly can be particularly tricky to deal with and extremely damaging if left untreated. Unlike many insect pests they are highly mobile and readily fly away from most attempts to knock them out with one of the various vegetable sprays listed above.

Their weakness, though, is the colour yellow to which they are highly attracted.

To make an effective Whitefly trap all you need do is find something bright yellow – plastic or a chunk of painted wood will do just fine – coat with something sticky and water-repellent, such as Vaseline or vegetable wax, locate amongst your whitefly infestation and you have yourself a natural whitefly trap.

Fingers and eyes.

Although last on this list, really this should be the first option. The most obvious and easiest of all solutions to roll out, very many infestations can be stopped in their tracks by a keen eye and a squishing finger. Slugs and snails can readily be collected with a spoon on damp evenings and vine weevils picked from foliage by torchlight, whilst the likes of aphids, scale insects, lily beetles and caterpillars should be hunted down in daylight.


Encouraging wildlife in the garden.

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

A fabulous little shield bug nymph that also happens to dine on aphids.

Down here in deepest rural Devon I’m lucky enough to garden on a piece of land that has never been cultivated or intensively worked before, let alone been bombarded with pesticides.

As a result the variety and sheer numbers of wild animals that live in the garden is a constant source of amazement to me, and the diversity of insect life in particular is especially remarkable, with new jewelled beetle, bee and dragonfly species seeming to appear each year.

But no matter where your garden is located, be it a city rooftop, a suburban terrace or a wild moor, the benefits of attracting and keeping wildlife in the garden are the same. If we grow plants and maintain gardens in order to have somewhere interesting and attractive to spend time, then when those same gardens are teeming with wildlife you’ve adding a whole other dimension of interest. It’s the difference between viewing a still life and 3D cinemascope.

Toad - natural slug killer par exellance.

But wildlife in the garden is not just ornamental. All gardens are, to one extent or another a war zone, with an array of slugs, caterpillars, weevils and other little pests just waiting till your back is turned before planning their next raid on your leafy lovelies.

By encouraging wildlife – be they birds, predatory insects or mammals – you are also recruiting foot soldiers to do your pest control work for you. Definitely what you’d call a win/win scenario.

Even more importantly though, from Honey Bees to House Sparrows to Small Tortoiseshells, our native wildlife continues to decline through habitat loss and by creating the right mini-environments and feeding points in your garden you can help to tip the balance back in their favour.

Southern Hawker - one of the first dragonflies to arrive at new urban ponds.

There’s no doubt that the single most important thing you can do for wildlife in any garden is to build a pond. Once established ponds become the centre of the garden as far as wildlife is concerned and you’ll see a big increase in the variety of animals visiting.

Toads and frogs will quickly set up base in even very small bodies of water and will repay you the favour by wolfing down large numbers of slugs and snails. Other natural slug killers that will likely visit a pond are hedgehogs together with an array of birds that will drink and bathe in shallow pond margins.

Along with being beautiful and fascinating to watch in action dragonflies and damselflies are also voracious predators of smaller insects. These miniature winged marvels disperse over huge distances and are adept at locating water bodies, with a few species specialising in colonising new ponds. The larger and deeper the pond the more species it will attract, but even the tiniest are wildlife magnets.

Throughout the rest of the garden animals will be looking for habitats to shelter and breed in, as well as food sources for themselves and their offspring. Trees can house huge communities of wildlife, and natives like Oak, Hazel, Willow and Hawthorn in particular are invaluable to birds, mammals and insects alike. Fruit trees – especially apple –  are also much loved by blackbirds and many others through autumn.

Flowering Ivy - a vital food source in late autumn.

Shrubs too are essential shelter habitats for wildlife, and a mixture of deciduous and evergreen plantings will encourage smaller birds including wrens and dunnocks, as well as providing winter accommodation for hedgehogs.

Flowering climbers and shrubs are also vital food sources for pollen and nectar-eating insects, especially butterflies, beetles and bees.

Flowering very late in the season, Ivy can be positively smothered with feeding insects like hoverflies come November and those same hoverflies will have spent their summers hoovering up aphids from the rest of your garden.

Of course all flowering plants, down to the smallest clovers, are also highly beneficial to feeding insects, and these will in turn attract larger predatory insects and birds.

Silver-Washed Fritillary feeding on bramble flowers.

A good diversity of flowering plants, with selections that flower throughout the year is the best wildlife recipe, whilst seed heads should, wherever possible, be left to provide essential winter food for birds and shelter for over-wintering insects.

Native species like foxgloves and primroses are particularly beneficial. If you can try to leave some nettles, thistles, brambles or vetch in a hidden and unused corner of the garden and watch the butterfly population boom.

Small log heaps will support a huge array of insect life, most of which, like slug-eating ground beetles, are highly beneficial whilst the warmth of compost heaps may, if you’re lucky attract slow-worms, wonderful legless lizards that will dispatch large numbers of slugs and snails. Nestboxes, not just for birds, but also for bees and ladybirds, are now readily available or easily built, and of course every garden should have at least one bird feeding station.

Blue tit - a feathered pest-control unit.

Providing peanuts and sunflower seeds through winter will literally mean the difference between life and death for the likes of Blue & Great tits, which are unable to forage effectively in frozen conditions.

Those same birds will then spend the following season searching your garden for caterpillars to feed their young.

One final thought, don’t be too tidy. Leaving things a little ragged, a little more natural will help to create a rich ecosystem of wildlife in your garden.