News Tagged ‘Pests’

Going up in the World – the Benefits of Raised Beds.

Thursday, April 7th, 2011

Raised planting beds, in one form or another, have been in use  for almost as long as humans have been cultivating plants – just think of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon….Whatever plants you intend growing, be they ornamental or culinary, these useful and highly adaptable garden features offer a remarkable range of benefits over growing directly in the ground and, so long as you’re not intending to create a new 8th wonder of the world, they can also generally be created simply and cheaply.

Simple but effective - a series of small raised beds awaiting filling.

Amongst the most immediate advantages are that you can cultivate all sorts of things that wouldn’t ordinarily be growable in your garden. Your garden might have soil that is too acid for vegetables, or too alkaline for ericaceous plants, for example, or your ground might be too stony, wet, quick draining etc. Going one step further, raised beds will allow you create planting areas where none currently exist at all, such as in a courtyard or rooftop, or simply make the very most of a small, or awkwardly shaped garden.

The extension of planting choices doesn’t stop at the soil itself however, as the actual sighting of the bed itself can open up new planting possibilities – a hot sunny location is perfect for a herb bed, for instance, and the extra drainage of the raised bed creates the perfect planting conditions too. On the other hand a spot in dappled shade, perhaps beneath the canopies of overhead trees,  would be ideal for growing a collection of woodland gems that might otherwise get swamped in open ground.

The dramatically improved drainage afforded by a raised bed makes the ideal planting environment for alpines.

If your soil is thin, stony, infertile or full of subsoil clay – all of which are common problems for the gardens of many new build houses, amongst others – then the addition of garden compost, well-rotted manure or leaf-mould will allow you to immediately create rich, balanced and ideal planting conditions. Improvements of the garden soil itself could take many years or even decades to come close to providing the same quality of growing environment and annual additions and improvements will be maintained within the beds much more readily than they would in the open ground too.

Another key benefit is that the soil in raised beds is not walked on and so remains uncompacted. In order to create an optimum growing medium  soil needs plenty of water and air moving freely throughout. Compaction progressively destroys the soil structure, prevents the movement and retention of both of these key elements and so seriously limits root growth. Crop yields from vegetables, fruit or flowers are all significantly better where compaction is avoided, and individual plants can also be spaced more closely together, further maximising the use of space.

Lots of veg packed in closely, making the most of the available space.

Even without any additional protection the improved drainage within raised beds means that the soil warms more quickly at the start of the growing season and the start of each day too. The leads to improved growth in general, but also allows Spring vegetables to be planted out earlier, and so the whole crop year is extended, which, once again leads to a more efficient use of space and time.

The benefits aren’t limited to simply extending planting choices, however. When properly sited and built to an appropriate level raised beds can dramatically increase the discomfort and/or pain of bending and kneeling to tend your plants as well as bringing smaller plants closer to eye level where they can be appreciated, tended or cropped, as appropriate. They can also allow access to planting areas that would be almost impossible to gardeners in wheelchairs or with limited mobility.

Raised beds can allow far greater access to soil and plants at a convenient height.

Once established raised beds will rarely, if ever need to be entirely dug over. The presiding principle is to add more nutrition at the surface and let the worms and other friendly soil beasties do the hard work for you, so, as a sub-section of no-dig gardening, working with raised beds requires much less physical work. General maintenance - watering, pest removal and particularly weeding – are also made easier since the soil level is closer to hands and eyes and the lack of compaction allows even the most stubborn weeds to readily be teased out.

Working with a fixed, raised frame bed also allows for the easy attachment of protective covers, when needed. Frost protection can be vital for getting seedlings and veg crops established in spring, and the solid boundaries of the bed can be purpose made to hold season-extending horticultural fleece, for instance. At the other end of the season fruit crops, in particular, can easily be protected from bird damage, by again using the frame of the raised bed as an attachment point for netting.

Highly beneficial though they are, raised beds needn’t simply be all about utility are crop-yields. From a design perspective, using raised beds in the garden is a bit like being given an extra spacial dimension with which to work, and can open up a whole new range of possible shapes, heights and effects that would otherwise be unavailable. It’s not simply a question of  having plants higher than ground level either, as the sides of beds can be turned into cascading walls of foliage or the beds themselves used to divide up an otherwise open space, in turn helping to provide shelter, shade or just simply surprises-around-the-corner in any garden.

Raised beds can make for beautiful, as well as functional garden features.

Despite their great simplicity raised beds certainly are extremely valuable additions to any garden, and it’s no wonder that they’ve been a staple of worldwide horticulture for millennia. In my next blog I’ll be looking at how to create a raised bed and the different materials that can be used.


Planning for a greenhouse.

Monday, April 12th, 2010

Practical and functional, no garden should be without a greenhouse.

Installing a greenhouse is one of those pivotal moments for any gardener. Having a covered area in the garden, be it a conservatory, porch or even a cloche or cold frame, greatly enhances the scope of what you can grow and when, but once you have a greenhouse you’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.

Greenhouses create longer growing seasons, provide protection, warmth and additional humidity for their leafy occupants. They allow you to grow entire ranges of plants, both edible and ornamental, that wouldn’t otherwise be possible.

Seeds can be sown much earlier and bulbs and containers started safely into growth in late winter or early spring. Perhaps most important of all, greenhouses also provide a sheltered, dry and wind-proofed working environment which will work wonders to encourage you out into the garden on otherwise grey, cold and uninviting days.

Site.

A wooden potting table - essential greenhouse kit.

Generally speaking you might have only limited possible sites available in your garden, or quite possibly no choice whatsoever as to where to situate a greenhouse. There is a temptation to locate them as you would a shed – i.e. tucked away out of site in an unused and probably uncultivatable corner of the garden.
Unless you’re planning to house a specialist fern collection in your greenhouse, this kind of location is really not going to work. Another common mistake is to situate with the longest side facing due south into the sun. This will create unfeasibly high summer temperatures and you may end up oven-baking all your plants as a result; at best you will be continually struggling to keep ventilation and humidity high enough and may end up having to shade the entire greenhouse in an effort to keep things stable.

Where possible the very best site will have the longest sides of the greenhouse facing east and west, the door/ventilation end facing south and the northern end against the protection of a wall, hedge of fence.

Choice of greenhouse.

A typical flat-pack aluminium greenhouse.

The best value greenhouses are those that come flat packed for self-assembly. If you have the patience and (ideally) a couple of willing helpers on hand then these aluminium and glass constructions are extremely good value and can provide an ideal solution.

Go for the very largest size that you can afford and can accommodate. You may not think that you’ll fill up all that space, but believe me, no matter how large your greenhouse you will soon find yourself wishing you could squeeze in a little more.

Also the larger the enclosed space the more stable the humidity, temperature and environment within, and the less susceptible it will be to heat loss overnight and over-heating during the day.

Finally, ventilation is an absolutely part of any greenhouse so make sure that yours has as much as is available, preferably allowing for a cross flow of air from end to end and/or side to side of the structure.

Access to services.

In order to make the most of your greenhouse you will need access to electricity and a water supply. Once you have a collection of plants under glass you will want to ensure they don’t get hammered by extremes of cold, and, depending on what you are growing, you may also need to guarantee a frost free environment year round.

A water butt set up to collect run-off from the greenhouse roof.

There are a variety of gas heaters available, but they can be tricky to run and expensive to buy. The best of them also need to be installed by a qualified engineer, and might end up costing more than the greenhouse itself. Having power available in your greenhouse will allow for cheap and easy low level heating if and when it’s needed and of course will also allow you to add a light for those dark winter days.

Access to water is even more important, since you’re going to be using this, quite possibly on a daily basis, for a large portion of the year. Consider installing a tap or at least running a dedicated hose to the greenhouse, and most definitely install a water butt to capture the rain that falls on the large glass surface of your greenhouse. Using captured rainwater not only makes good environmental and economic sense but is also far better for all plants, and absolutely essential for the likes of Orchids & carnivorous plants as well as many seedlings.

Think also about your own access to and from the greenhouse and consider adding some additional paving or gravel in order to keep the entrance clean and prevent mud being traipsed in from a soggy wet garden.

Cleanliness.

All of the warm, humid & sheltered conditions that allow for great plant growth will also create an outstanding breeding ground for fungi, bacteria and plant viruses, not to mention weeds and a whole gaggle of flying insect pests. Keep work surfaces, glass and flooring clean, tidy and hygienic and you will greatly reduce the opportunities for any of these nasties to gain a foothold.

Greenhouses are not garden sheds and should not be used as dumping grounds for all the things that you want to tidy away – the transparent sides should put the kibosh on that idea anyhow, since everything inside is effectively still on display.

Equipping a greenhouse.

There are a few useful bits of kit that you should have lined up ready for your new glassy space. Top of the list is a solid, steady work surface set at a height comfortable for you to work with and strong enough to hold pots, compost and whatever else you’re likely to need. Consider using a table and perching seat – they don’t take up much room and make can make working conditions far more comfortable.

Working tray.

A large, shallow sided tray is also pretty essential. This will allow you to do a whole range of gardening tasks – mix composts, pot up plants, turn out old pots etc. – and all in contained, clean and hygienic conditions.

You’re also going to need an easily accessible and preferably containerised or divided tidy or storage area for tools, labels, pens, ties, plant foods and so on. Think about layout too, and where best to accommodate composts, pots, trays, canes and all the other items so that they are ready for use.

I like to have two separate bins running in the greenhouse. In fact it’s the very first thing that I set up and won’t start any work without them, as it’s amazing how much debris you produce whilst working in a greenhouse. Much of it can be composted, but some things, like old broken plastic pots and seeds trays or diseased plant material, need to be kept separate for waste disposal.

Shade netting - have some on hand long before it's likely to be needed.

Tools will vary according to your needs and the nature of what you will be growing, but secateurs, scissors, a hand watering can and a couple of sprays are all pretty indispensible in my experience.

Finally, unless you have indeed been forced to locate your greenhouse in a dark, shady corner where a shed might otherwise live, then you will almost certainly need some shading ready for extremes of temperature.

You can easily attach shading net to the inside or your glass walls, and some greenhouses come with their own shading systems too, but in either case you’ll need to have it ready to use well in advance of summer.


T is for Trillium.

Friday, April 2nd, 2010

Amongst the most prized of all spring flowering plants are the Trilliums, a uniformly fascinating, beautiful and nearly unique genus of 43 species native to North America with a small handful hailing from Asia.

Trillium grandiflorum f. roseum

Whilst any display of spring flowering perennials is a pretty magical site, pushing, as they do, from near barren ground to display their flowering and leafy wears for all to see, there is definitely something really special about Trilliums.

They are the kind of plant that, when in flower, will cause even the most jaded non gardener to stop and stare, alongside the many converts and aficionados who will doubtless already be drooling with delight.

Trillium basics.

Trilliums grow from fleshy underground rhizomes (swollen stems) each of which produces just one single growth point. In mid spring – typically April in the UK – this slowly enlarges to form a single upright stem with a whorl of leaves on top of which opens a single flower. Over time these rhizomes reproduce themselves and form new growth points and eventually spread to create whole colonies.

Trillium chloropetalum.

There are, broadly speaking, two different groups of Trillium, each characterised by the flower, which either grows directly from the centre of the leaves, and is rigidly upright, or is held aloft on a short stem, and is often nodding.

The leaves of some species are almost as decorative as the flowers, being large, heart-shaped, and splashed, patterned  and blotched with silvery/grey/green, whilst flowers vary from snow white to pink and yellow with a large number of intense crimson, red-violet and blood red. These are plants that aren’t shy about making their presence felt in the garden, that’s for sure.

Cultivation.

Trillium cuneatum.

It’s fair to say that Trilliums come with something of a reputation for being hard to grow successfully. This reputation undoubtedly puts many gardeners off trying the plants, which is a shame, because, given half-decent conditions Trilliums are not problematic in any way and clumps will slowly enlarge and persist for many decades with really very little care, attention or intervention.

One thing that certainly is  true is that plants can be slow to establish, particularly if they are planted as dormant rhizomes. In fact they can sulk and fail to appear above ground at all for the first year – during which time they are actually making new roots and seeking to establish themselves into their new site.

Trillium flexipes.

All Trilliums are much better planted whilst in growth, preferable from freshly divided or already potted specimens, when they should get away quite happily and establish more readily.

In the wild Trilliums are plants of the forest floor, emerging before the leaves on the trees above them, and fading away by mid summer. Once established they can tolerate relatively dry conditions, but for the first year or so they benefit greatly from being kept moist.

Soil should be humus rich and well drained and the position should ideally provide dappled shade – just like any woodland floor in fact.

Trillium underwoodii.

The Asiatic species are much less frequently seen in cultivation and all prefer a richer, more moist soil. In the wild they often associate with bog margin plants like Skunk Cabbages (Lysichiton spp.) and given sufficient moisture at the roots these species they will also tolerate a sunnier spot than their American cousins.

Two species (T. undulatum and T. nivale) lovely though they both are, are much tougher to please and can’t really be considered suitable for garden cultivation outside the preserve of specialist collections.

Propagation.

Trillium erectum.

Most Trillium are pretty slow to bulk themselves up and it’s the patient gardener who gets to dig up and divide his or her clumps. Some species, though, do spread more rapidly and a few forms and hybrids, in particular, have proven to be keener to bulk up, but none could possibly ever be accused of being vigorous.

In the wild, of course, the species spread themselves pretty successfully by seed, and for a few lucky gardeners their plants do the same job without any assistance. Generally though Trillium seed is slow to germinate and the young plants painfully slow to mature to flowering size – four to seven years being the norm.

It’s this slowness to mature and reproduce that has given Trilliums their rather unjustified reputation for being tough to cultivate. Once you’ve seen a North American woodland floor carpeted, bluebell-like, with Trilliums, out-competing rival plants as far as the eye can see, you’ll have a tough job to believe that these guys could possibly be hard to grow!

Pests.

Trillium luteum.

Trilliums are pretty tough customers, absolutely bone hardy and, happily, are not attractive to many pests. Slugs and snails can be troublesome but are easily repelled from individual plants or small colonies, and it’s definitely worth protecting those beautiful leaves from being munched.

Rhizomes can rot when the plants are dormant if the soil is allowed to get saturated or is very poorly drained, and plants can retreat back under ground in severely dry conditions, but that’s about it in terms of common problems.

Trillium species.

Although some of the species are extremely expensive and rarely offered for sale there are a decent number of species and a few varieties that are fairly widely available and at reasonable prices.

Trillium grandiflorum double.

T. grandiflorum is the most widespread species, both in the wild and in cultivation, and makes for an excellent introduction to the genus. The flowers are large, sideways facing, pure white and very showy.

There are also a handful of extremely choice double-flowered cultivars as well as a beautiful pink form in cultivation. T. ovatum, is similar although smaller flowered, whilst T. cernuum and T. catesbaei have nodding flowers in white, often flushed with pink. T. flexipes is another widespread white flowered species, and one of the most willing to increase itself in cultivation.

T. rugalii is a particularly beautiful species. The nodding white flowers have heavily recurved petals that display a central contrasting ovary of deep maroon red.

Trillium albidum.

T. albidum is another gem, with upright flowers of white veined with rosy purple. It’s also gorgeously fragrant, reminding me of violets and roses. T. erectum is another widespread and easy species with recurving flowers of intense crimson red.

Probably the showiest of all Trilliums though are those with upright flowers of deep blackish maroon-red held over very large, marble-patterned leaves. There are a number of closely related species (T. cuneatum, T. sessile, T. chloropetalum & T. kurabayashii are the most widely cultivated, T. decumbans, T. underwodii & T. maculatum the most spectacular) that are variations on the same theme. They can be tough to distinguish from one another, and many in cultivation are wrongly labelled in any case, but they are all nothing short of awesome when in growth, so you won’t go far wrong with any of them.

Trillium flexipes hybrid.

There are several yellow flowered forms of different species, but the widespread T. luteum is always lemon-yellow and is the only yellow Trillium likely to be encountered in this country.

Several species naturally hybridise in the wild and others have been crossed in cultivation.

Although these hybrids aren’t often available, they are almost always extremely beautiful and highly unusual – as well as easily grown – so it’s definitely worth seeking them out whenever possible.


Hooray for hellebores.

Friday, March 19th, 2010

Some of the colours of the hellebore rainbow.

There’s no doubt that hellebores are pretty special garden plants.

Flowering at the tail end of winter, with only snowdrops and the occasional early Iris, Cyclamen and Crocus for company, these improbable members of the buttercup family never fail to inspire as they push up their multicoloured flowers and divided leaves through snow or ice, or whatever the winter weather has to throw at them.

Emerging so much earlier than most other spring-flowering plants hellebores would probably command attention even if they were small and weakly coloured.

Apricot with dark nectaries.

Thanks to generations of dedicated enthusiasts, there’s not much chance of that, and these perennials now pack a truly dramatic punch with large cup-shaped flowers in a kaleidoscope of colours from vivid green and pure white through yellow to apricot, pinks & purples and on to the most intense slate blues and deepest violet blacks.

Flower shapes vary from very rounded and cup shaped, to starry with a range of different shaped doubles. Some also have dark red or black-ish nectaries, which gives a different look altogether.

As if that range weren’t enough the flowers of many forms also come with a multitude of different markings. These have evolved to guide pollinating insects safely and accurately towards the reproductive organs of the flowers, but luckily for us it’s not just the eyes of passing bees that are dazzled by the endless different combinations of spots, blotches and lines.

A bit of Botany.

Near black - both flowers and foliage.

Before going any further I need to qualify exactly which hellebores I’m referring to. Helleborus is a small genus of around 15 species, all but one of which are native to Europe. H. foetidus (the rather unkindly named Stinking Hellebore) is actually a British native, but the large majority hail from central southern and eastern Europe, with particular strongholds in scrubby mountainous regions of the Balkans.

The only non-European species is the beautiful H. thibetanus, which, you won’t be surprised to hear, is a native of Tibet.

H. niger (the so-called Christmas Rose) and H. argutifolius are both very well known garden plants, but the large-flowered, multi-coloured garden hellebores are all very complex, multi-species hybrids based in part of the species H. orientalis.

Double white spotted.

Strictly speaking these should be called H. x  hybridus, but in reality hardly anyone used this name.

As a group the plants have widely and pretty consistently come to be known as the Orientalis Hybrids (as well as picking up the unfortunate and totally misleading moniker Lenten Rose)….having said that for simplicities sake I’m going to continue referring to them here simply as hellebores.

Cultivation.

Reverse picotee white spotted.

One of the other great appeals of hellebores is that they really are incredibly easy, tolerant and rewarding plants to grow.

In their wild habitats the species invariably live on slightly alkaline, rocky and generally pretty impoverished soils.

In cultivation they will happily grow in virtually anything you care to give them, although they will of course grow better and certainly provide a better flowering display if they have something halfway decent to sink their roots into.

Hellebores are essentially plants of open, light woodland, so a good, organic-rich soil with a free draining structure will give optimum results. They are also partial to a good feed, and though far from essential, a heavy mulch with well rotted manure in late autumn will see the plants respond with extra lush and large growth the following spring.

Green streaked picotee.

Despite their woodland origins hellebores are actually very sun tolerant and can be grown in a really wide array of garden positions, including that most difficult of all situations – dry shade.

In many ways, though, they both grow and look their best when integrated into a shady or woodland border situation, which of course also closely mirrors the habitats of the wild species.

Ongoing care.

Hellebores are evergreen, with flowers emerging before the foliage and on separate new stems.

The main care involved in growing them in the garden revolves around what to do with the previous years foliage. Many gardeners simply do nothing and leave the whole plants intact year round. There is something to be said for this since the old foliage will certainly help protect the soft new stems as they emerge in winter.

New spring flower stems.

However, those old stems and leaves can also act as snail hotels as well as potentially harbouring various fungal diseases, so the alternative approach is to cut all the previous years foliage and stems right back to ground level in mid winter.

This has the added advantage of allowing the new flowering stems to be displayed to their fullest, without last years raggedly, blotched old leaves marring their pristine beauty.

Propagation.

It is possible, with much care and patience, to divide large plants in order to propagate from highly desirable individual clones. In practice though, hardly anyone fiddles around dividing their hellebores, because they are one of the easiest and most reliable garden plants to grow from seed.

A selection of yellows.

Actually, if you leave the seed heads to develop and ripen on the plants then you’re pretty much guaranteed to find a little crop of satellite babies sprouting around their parent the following spring.

It’s great fun, and really very easy to hand pollinate your favourite coloured plants with one another to see what new colours and patterns result, but simply gathering the copious seed that naturally develops will do the job as well.

Although it is released by the plants in late spring and takes around 9 months to germinate – naturally timed to sprout as the same time that the adult plants come into growth – hellebore seed does not store well and quickly looses viability. It’s simple enough to deal with though, and should be sown as soon as possible after harvesting.

No special treatment is needed although the seed does require winter stratification to stimulate germination, so, after sowing the pots/trays etc. should always be kept outside to experience the winter cold.

Pest and Diseases.

Red picotee with dark nectaries.

Again, these are thankfully few and far between. Slugs and snails will attack young shoots but once the leaves have matured they are far too tough to be appealing to any mollusc. Aphids can likewise congregate on new growth and if not removed will lead to distorted and damaged foliage and flowers.

More importantly aphids are also suspected as the agents responsible for passing on Hellebore Black Death – an all too common viral disease that leads to large black streaks and distortion in the foliage, stems and flowers of hellebores.

A much less serious but also quite widespread problem is Black Spot, a fungal disease that causes “dead” brown blotches to appear on the foliage. Removal of old foliage and good general garden hygiene will greatly reduce the occurrence of this and indeed any other fungal problems.


Plant Pests – Ten Top Organic Solutions.

Monday, March 8th, 2010

With Spring temperatures rising daily it won’t be long before a new wave of crawling, wriggling and flying invertebrates make their way to our gardens to see what juicy new fare we’ve thoughtfully supplied them with.

Always remember, though, that there are an equal number of beneficial insects (not to mention birds, amphibians and mammals) out there in the garden, so any artificial intervention, even of the organic variety, needs to be well targeted and used with thought and care. So without further ado…

Companion planting.

Basil - the pungent odour repels many insect pets.

This is where you truly get the plants to do the work for you, and is particularly useful (essential even) when growing vegetables.

Very many plants contain an array of chemicals that have evolved as natural insect defence mechanisms. Different chemicals occur in different plants and in different parts of plants too, and there are a huge number of proven combinations that will have a dramatic effect on pest numbers in the garden.

A few examples include:

Basil, planted with tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, asparagus or any ornamental susceptible to aphid damage; borage, also with tomatoes as well as strawberries; garlic with cucumber, peas, lettuce, carrots & celery; alliums with fruit trees; geraniums with roses and all brassicas.

Attract the predators.

An adult Green Lacewing - one of the gardeners top allies.

Whilst you might imagine that the presence of, say, aphids or Cabbage White caterpillars in your garden will be enough to draw the crowds of beneficial insects, these helpful beasties also require additional food sources, particularly pollen and nectar rich flowers.

A number of herbs, including borage, chamomile, hyssop, lovage, and in particular thyme are extremely attractive to a hoverflies, bees, wasps and parasitic wasps, all of whom you most definitely want on-side.

Ladybirds and lacewings – both amongst the most voracious or garden predators – will flock to angelica, yarrow, dill, fennel, tansy and coriander.

Birds will be drawn by bird-feeders and water, and amphibians by the presence of a pond, and all will stay to dispatch countless pests.

Mollusc barriers.

Laying a beer trap.

Snails and slugs hate crossing sharp, spiky materials and surrounding individual plants or indeed entire beds will create a natural boundary that keeps the molluscs out.

Grit and crushed eggshells are often used, but ceramic shards go one better by actually absorbing the mucus trail of any slug or snail that attempts top breach the defence, preventing any slimy progress.

Meanwhile, outside the barrier you can lay down traps to collect the little beasties. Stones, wood, carpet, or any dark, flat object that well keep moist through the day will provide an ideal hideout for slugs and snails and handily concentrates them ready for collection. Good old-fashioned beer traps – jam-jars or old yoghurt pots half-filled with beer and part-sunk into the ground – will also collect droves of drunken drowned molluscs.

Garlic and chilli spray.

This is a pretty well known brew with a wide variety of recipes and an even wider variety of garden applications. The basic idea is to combine two of natures most powerful and pungent agents into one pest-fighting force. Take 2 whole bulbs of garlic with half a dozen small, hot chillies, add 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil, 1 dessertspoon of liquid soap (to improve adhesion) and 3 cups of water.  Blend the whole mixture thoroughly, strain out the lumps and then add an additional 4 cups of water to dilute the liquid for spraying.

The garlic will deter almost everything from attempting to eat any foliage that has been so treated, whilst the fiery chilli will kill all sap-suckers and leaf-munchers on contact, so you get a double whammy effect. This heady mixture may burn young foliage, so you might want to dilute further, or test on a small section first.

Batter red spider mites.

Batter? Surprisingly perhaps I’m not suggesting coshing mites over their tiny arachnid heads, but am actually referring to the kitchen variety batter. A few tablespoons of flour, blended together with around a cup each of milk and water will smother and suffocate Red Spider Mite – a particularly pernicious little pest that thrives in dry conditions and in greenhouses.

Soap.

Liquid detergents (i.e. washing up liquid) are well known for smothering and killing aphids and various other sap-suckers. The trouble is that the surfactants in most detergents do not readily break down in the environment, and have been shown to cause more problems than some herbicides and pesticides. Vegetable based liquid soaps, however, will do just the same job without any of the potential hazards. The soap and water mix won’t do much to deter future pests and will quite quickly dissipate, but can provide the ideal instant solution for a newly-spotted infestation.

Rhubarb tea.

Rhubarb leaves.

The leaves of Rhubarb plants contain natural toxins that you can easily employ in the fight against aphids, white fly and caterpillars.

All you need to do is harvest some of leaves, chop them into small-ish pieces, add some water and bring to the boil. Leave the mixture to steep for a few days, after which time you can strain and bottle the juice which can be sprayed over the plants with the problem pests. The juice should be diluted to the colour of weak tea and the addition of a few drops of liquid soap will encourage it to stick to the foliage more effectively.

Molasses and vinegar.

Another rather unlikely spray that is easily put together uses a blend of 1 tablespoon of molasses with ¼ litre of vinegar and ¾ litre of water. This can be applied on a weekly basis to any and all plants (edible and otherwise) that are susceptible to predation by sawflies, moths or butterflies and should prevent eggs from being laid and cut the cycle off before it even starts.

Sticky yellow stuff.

Whiteflies - much enlarged from lifesize (luckily!)

Infestations of Whitefly can be particularly tricky to deal with and extremely damaging if left untreated. Unlike many insect pests they are highly mobile and readily fly away from most attempts to knock them out with one of the various vegetable sprays listed above.

Their weakness, though, is the colour yellow to which they are highly attracted.

To make an effective Whitefly trap all you need do is find something bright yellow – plastic or a chunk of painted wood will do just fine – coat with something sticky and water-repellent, such as Vaseline or vegetable wax, locate amongst your whitefly infestation and you have yourself a natural whitefly trap.

Fingers and eyes.

Although last on this list, really this should be the first option. The most obvious and easiest of all solutions to roll out, very many infestations can be stopped in their tracks by a keen eye and a squishing finger. Slugs and snails can readily be collected with a spoon on damp evenings and vine weevils picked from foliage by torchlight, whilst the likes of aphids, scale insects, lily beetles and caterpillars should be hunted down in daylight.


Encouraging wildlife in the garden.

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

A fabulous little shield bug nymph that also happens to dine on aphids.

Down here in deepest rural Devon I’m lucky enough to garden on a piece of land that has never been cultivated or intensively worked before, let alone been bombarded with pesticides.

As a result the variety and sheer numbers of wild animals that live in the garden is a constant source of amazement to me, and the diversity of insect life in particular is especially remarkable, with new jewelled beetle, bee and dragonfly species seeming to appear each year.

But no matter where your garden is located, be it a city rooftop, a suburban terrace or a wild moor, the benefits of attracting and keeping wildlife in the garden are the same. If we grow plants and maintain gardens in order to have somewhere interesting and attractive to spend time, then when those same gardens are teeming with wildlife you’ve adding a whole other dimension of interest. It’s the difference between viewing a still life and 3D cinemascope.

Toad - natural slug killer par exellance.

But wildlife in the garden is not just ornamental. All gardens are, to one extent or another a war zone, with an array of slugs, caterpillars, weevils and other little pests just waiting till your back is turned before planning their next raid on your leafy lovelies.

By encouraging wildlife – be they birds, predatory insects or mammals – you are also recruiting foot soldiers to do your pest control work for you. Definitely what you’d call a win/win scenario.

Even more importantly though, from Honey Bees to House Sparrows to Small Tortoiseshells, our native wildlife continues to decline through habitat loss and by creating the right mini-environments and feeding points in your garden you can help to tip the balance back in their favour.

Southern Hawker - one of the first dragonflies to arrive at new urban ponds.

There’s no doubt that the single most important thing you can do for wildlife in any garden is to build a pond. Once established ponds become the centre of the garden as far as wildlife is concerned and you’ll see a big increase in the variety of animals visiting.

Toads and frogs will quickly set up base in even very small bodies of water and will repay you the favour by wolfing down large numbers of slugs and snails. Other natural slug killers that will likely visit a pond are hedgehogs together with an array of birds that will drink and bathe in shallow pond margins.

Along with being beautiful and fascinating to watch in action dragonflies and damselflies are also voracious predators of smaller insects. These miniature winged marvels disperse over huge distances and are adept at locating water bodies, with a few species specialising in colonising new ponds. The larger and deeper the pond the more species it will attract, but even the tiniest are wildlife magnets.

Throughout the rest of the garden animals will be looking for habitats to shelter and breed in, as well as food sources for themselves and their offspring. Trees can house huge communities of wildlife, and natives like Oak, Hazel, Willow and Hawthorn in particular are invaluable to birds, mammals and insects alike. Fruit trees – especially apple –  are also much loved by blackbirds and many others through autumn.

Flowering Ivy - a vital food source in late autumn.

Shrubs too are essential shelter habitats for wildlife, and a mixture of deciduous and evergreen plantings will encourage smaller birds including wrens and dunnocks, as well as providing winter accommodation for hedgehogs.

Flowering climbers and shrubs are also vital food sources for pollen and nectar-eating insects, especially butterflies, beetles and bees.

Flowering very late in the season, Ivy can be positively smothered with feeding insects like hoverflies come November and those same hoverflies will have spent their summers hoovering up aphids from the rest of your garden.

Of course all flowering plants, down to the smallest clovers, are also highly beneficial to feeding insects, and these will in turn attract larger predatory insects and birds.

Silver-Washed Fritillary feeding on bramble flowers.

A good diversity of flowering plants, with selections that flower throughout the year is the best wildlife recipe, whilst seed heads should, wherever possible, be left to provide essential winter food for birds and shelter for over-wintering insects.

Native species like foxgloves and primroses are particularly beneficial. If you can try to leave some nettles, thistles, brambles or vetch in a hidden and unused corner of the garden and watch the butterfly population boom.

Small log heaps will support a huge array of insect life, most of which, like slug-eating ground beetles, are highly beneficial whilst the warmth of compost heaps may, if you’re lucky attract slow-worms, wonderful legless lizards that will dispatch large numbers of slugs and snails. Nestboxes, not just for birds, but also for bees and ladybirds, are now readily available or easily built, and of course every garden should have at least one bird feeding station.

Blue tit - a feathered pest-control unit.

Providing peanuts and sunflower seeds through winter will literally mean the difference between life and death for the likes of Blue & Great tits, which are unable to forage effectively in frozen conditions.

Those same birds will then spend the following season searching your garden for caterpillars to feed their young.

One final thought, don’t be too tidy. Leaving things a little ragged, a little more natural will help to create a rich ecosystem of wildlife in your garden.


August 2009 – Helpful Visitor!

Sunday, August 2nd, 2009

Well, there was great excitement in the garden this month.  I was clearing away the peas in the vegetable patch and I discovered a little toad snuggled into a small burrow that it had made.  Unfortunately I had destroyed his home by removing the wigwam of peas.  So I quickly dashed to my potting shed to get an old crock to make a little toad house.  I am pleased to say that he is still there and hopefully eating all the slimy creatures that have come his way. Talking of nature we have so many Bees and Butterflies in the EcoCharlie garden at the moment Bumble Bees, Honey Bees, Peacocks, Cabbage Whites, Tortoiseshell and a pretty brown one. I must remember to look in my butterfly book to identify it. The Bee Attract is obviously working very well. The down side is that we also have a large amount of caterpillars emerging especially on the cabbages.  I do pick them off the leaves by hand but I am going to leave them now as there is just too many.

Toad in the EcoCharlie Garden

Toad in the EcoCharlie Garden!

I am afraid I was a bit slow in netting them this year and the cabbages now look like colanders!  Never mind there is always next year.

We are very pleased with our newly seeded patch of lawn.  Normally growing new grass seed would be a job for September onwards, while the days are still warm and we have more chance of rain but July has been such a wash out, weather wise that the grass seed has germinated and looks lush.  If September is a dry month the patch is small enough to keep watered.  Another job we have accomplished again because of the wet weather is mulching the large shrub beds with a layer of permeable membrane and then laying a thick layer of bark chippings.  Normally this would have had to wait until the soil was wetter in the Autumn but because of our damp July we have been able to conserve the water and suppress the weeds.

The Raspberries have started to ripen thick and fast.  I seem to picking them on a daily basis and using them for with breakfast cereals and in sauces for ice cream and desserts. I am cutting lots of flowers which perfumes the house with smells of lilies and sweat peas, lovely.


July 2009 – Hot, hot, hot!

Sunday, July 12th, 2009

Watering, picking and dead heading to keep the garden going is flavour of the month.  The AQUADRIP Watering Spikes, attached to recycled bottles are watering the tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers efficiently so I don’t have to be too concerned about those but the vegetable  seedlings need looking at constantly.  I have decided to  place them on a tray covered in Natural Slug and Snail Deterrent and pouring on water then putting the pots on top to keep them constantly damp.  It helps to keep any slimy creatures away and stops my seedlings from drying out.

The herbaceous border is looking a picture with a great variety of colourful plants.  The star has to be Helenium `moerheim Beauty’ it’s a real favourite of mine.  I also love Lychnis coronaria that has self seeded everywhere, more plants for free! I am a great believer in collecting flower and vegetable seed and using the following year or giving to friends. I also know it will be happy in my garden and resistant to any pests.

Talking of pests we have recently been visited by some deer.  Our gate was left open and in they strolled grazing on the plants as they looked about.  There was not too much damage done, but Sedums seemed to satisfy their appetite and every flower head was eaten.  They also munched happily on the raspberries.  Luckily we have quite a few and they are the Autumn fruiting variety so not fully fruiting yet.  Fortunately, the  rattan cloches were protecting most of the salad and vegetables in the vegetable garden.  It took us an hour to get the deer out as they can only come into the garden through the gate, all other boundaries are deer fenced and we have two acres of garden of which some is woodland.  Good exercise for us first thing in the morning.

Hot Summers day in the garden

Hot Summers day in the garden!

The Vegetable garden is surrounded by box hedging and with the changeable weather we are a little late in trimming it.  We started this week because of the lack of hot sunshine and hopefully the cut edges won’t get scorched. Quite a laborious job but looks so good when it’s finished


June 2009 – Summer is here!

Friday, June 5th, 2009

With this hot weather I am up early each morning to water all the pots in the garden and to water the veggie patch before the sun gets onto it.  I have found watering in the morning works better at keeping the slugs and snails away from my plants.  EcoCharlie’s Natural Slug and Snail Deterrent is doing well on the beans and new lettuce I have planted I must remember to pick some lettuce today and some of the rocket that is growing wildly.   Because of going away in the middle of June I have not planted many seeds in the greenhouse so not much happening in there.  Just the cuttings I took last year to keep going.

Summer in the EcoCharlie Garden

Summer in the EcoCharlie Garden

It’s such a shame that the big red Poppies Papaver orientale `Allegro’  have not lasted very long.  I expect it’s been too hot for them.  Even the Lupinus` The Page ’  have gone over really quickly and some have very nasty large woolly aphids on them.  I tend to wash them off with my hose as I water and I do the same with the black fly that has attacked the foxgloves.

Cutting the grass should slow a little soon but at the moment I seem to be forever getting out the mower and my edging shears to keep everything looking neat and tidy. At least with the close planting scheme in the big flower border there is not a lot of weeding to do there.  In the vegetable patch there is always something to weed and pick. I have a lot of Kale, salad, rocket, radish, beetroot and spinach.  The carrots have not been successful but there is still time to try again.  I must make time to sow some pea, beetroot and bean seeds before  it’s too late.