Camellia japonica 'Hagoromo'

As winter turns slowly into spring, one of the pivotal moments for me is the opening of the first camellia flower.

These often almost impossibly exotic looking shrubs have become very familiar inhabitants of our gardens, but for most of their British cultivation history they were considered as exclusively conservatory and glasshouse plants, and no one ever dreamed of trying them in the garden.

Cultivation history.

Native to Japan, China and south-east Asia, camellias were revered (and inspired countless works of art) for the last several thousand years in their home lands. Like so many other Asian trees and shrubs, the Victorians introduced the species, together with many named forms, into Europe through the latter part of the 19th century.

Camellia japonica 'Oukan'

By the early 1920’s though, they had all but disappeared from cultivation, having well and truly fallen from favour.

In large part they were victims of the massively increased cost of maintaining, heating and working those glass-houses, most of which were themselves condemned to demolition.

Post World War 2 there was a gradual revival of interest and as the general gardening fashion moved away from labour-intensive herbaceous plantings towards the more self-sustaining shrubbery, gardeners finally started trying camellias outdoors.

It shouldn’t have come as any great surprise that many of these plants were indeed fully hardy – many grow naturally in climates far more severe than our own – but their exotic flowers and foliage had for far too long seen them separated from their close cousins the Rhododendrons.

Camellias in the garden.

Camellia japonica 'Dahlohnega'

In the wild camellias are all very much understory shrubs – and ultimately small trees – which is to say that they naturally inhabit the dappled shade at the margins and in openings in woodland.

Knowing this simple fact, and then imagining what those natural conditions are like, tells you a few key facts about the conditions that they need to thrive in cultivation – 1) shady, but not dark 2) sheltered from the wind 3) with their roots in (acidic) leaf-litter.

Whilst the most frequently seen camellias are, to all intents and purposes, absolutely bone hardy as plants, the same can’t be said for the flowers themselves, particularly the earliest varieties that open in late winter.

Camellia 'Baby Bear'

Shelter from wind is pretty vital if those early flowers aren’t to burn off. Similarly, east-facing sites should be avoided since frozen winter flowers will turn to a brown mush if exposed to the rays of the early morning sun.

A westerly or northerly aspect is ideal, and walls, fences or trees and other (later flowering) shrubs can be used to provide additional shelter.

Much is made of camellias being “acid-loving” and even indicator species of acid soil.

In fact they are considerably more tolerant than most Rhododendrons in this regard, and will happily succeed on a neutral as well as an acid soil.

Camellia japonica 'Black Opal'

Having a good, open, free draining, humus-rich soil (i.e. emulating what they would have in the wild) is actually far more important than the precise pH.

Where soil conditions are totally inappropriate or un-improvable, camellias also make great container plants. Their relatively slow rate of growth means that, with appropriate watering, feeding and repotting, they can thrive almost indefinitely in pots and their formality and glossy evergreen foliage makes them ideal patio subjects.

With care camellias can be planted out at any time of the year, but early spring, whilst the plants are in flower, in the ideal season. Then the roots will still be dormant and the plants will readily establish into their new homes.

The species.

Thanks to the renewed breeding efforts of the last 50-or-so years there are now a truly vast array of camellias from which the gardener can choose.

There are just over 40 wild species, (including C. sinensis, the plant from which we get tea) but virtually all of the widely grown garden varieties derive from 3 of those species - C. japonica, C. reticulata & C. sasanqua – and their various hybrids.

Camellia japonica.

Camellia japonica 'Lily Pons'

Certainly the most important and widely grown of all the species, the Japanese camellia has given rise to an extraordinary 30,000 cultivars and forms – the largest by far of any individual species of plant on earth.

The flower forms are classified into 6 types: single, semi-double, anemone, peony, rose double and formal double, with colours ranging from pure white and pale creams through all shades of pink to deep and vivid true reds. With such a large range of selections it’s not surprising that the bloom time varies considerably with different cultivars opening throughout late winter and the whole of spring – something to bear in mind when selecting plants for any given site.

The highly desirable white flowered forms are unfortunately also the most prone to weather damage and should always be planted with extra protection if the blooms aren’t to be regularly spoiled. The equally beautiful deep red flowered japonicas though are much tougher and can take considerably more harsh weather without getting damaged.

Camellia sasanqua.

Camellia sasanqua 'Yuletide'

This much less well known Japanese species is in many ways more versatile than C. japonica and should certainly be far more widely grown.

The plants flower in mid to late autumn, generally well away from any frost danger, and have a similar (if much smaller!) range of flower shapes and colours to their Japonica cousins.

The individual flowers are smaller and more fleeting than that species, but are produced in huge numbers from a very early age.

They also have the great bonus of being fragrant.

Camellia reticulata.

This extremely showy Chinese species has the largest blooms of any camellia, with huge flowers ranging from single to semi-double in shades of white and pink with a few reds.

They are much less hardy than the previous two species though, and, although they bloom later in spring so are less frequently subject to weather damage, the plants themselves definitely require a more sheltered location in order to do well.

Prunus incisa - a pretty flowering cherry that makes an ideal garden tree.

The simple fact is that, once planted, trees and larger shrubs will likely never be moved, and, if all goes well, will remain in place for decades or even centuries to come. Aside from mulching, the only chance that you will ever have to improve the structure of the ground where they will grow is at the time of planting. Bearing that in mind it has to be well worthwhile putting in the time and effort to ensure your spindly sapling will one day grow into a mighty tree (or shrub…)

Although it’s possible, with care, to plant at any time of the year, by far the best seasons are  late autumn and the early spring, when the plants will be dormant and will suffer far less shock than they would in the growing season. The ideal weather is cloudy, cool, windless and most definitely frost-free, so if necessary delay planting until suitable conditions occur.

It was long thought by many that the most important factor in tree planting was the fertilisation of the ground, with the addition of composts, manures and so on. Research has now shown this to be not the case; in fact the fertilisation of your planting hole is actually likely to prove harmful, or even fatal to new trees, the emphasis instead is all on the preparation of the hole itself.

Planting hole preparation - the most important job of all.

Generally speaking the bigger the planting hole the better. The aim is to break up as large an area of soil as possible, not in terms of depth, but rather width, because it’s here that your tree will be making it’s initial forays into it’s new soil.

How big is big? Certainly the planting hole should be considerably larger than the root ball of your new tree and none of the roots should have to be bent or curled to fit in.

It’s important to plant on the same day as you dig the hole as exposure to the elements will kill off many of the beneficial micro-organisms, and in particular the fungi that are present in the soil. Microrrhizal fungi are amongst the most essential members of the subterranean community as far as plants are concerned, and most trees actually derive much of their nutrition not directly from the soil, but rather from these fungi with whom they set up a symbiotic relationship.

Mound planting - to help trees establish on wet ground.

It’s often necessary to be a bit flexible with your planting location too. If you dig down and find standing water or a layer of bedrock, for instance then it’s best to stop right there and consider a new spot.

Having said that trees can be planted in wet sites by mounding soil up above ground level. We’ve taken this approach is a seasonally wet patch of our garden where we have succeeded in establishing a number of Acer palmatum by planting each one on a large mound as much as 60cm above the natural ground level.

In very dry locations you can take the opposite approach and plant in a dip so that any rain-water that happens by will be diverted to the roots of your tree. Be very, very wary, though, of creating a sump that collects water all year round, roots need oxygen as well as water so this is a quick recipe for a drowned plant.

Staking - short and sweet.

Before reaching for the tree, the next step is to consider staking. Unless your new arrival is on the short and stocky side then it’s often necessary to secure by tying to a stake. This makes sure then tree isn’t rocked – or even uprooted – in the wind and will allow it to properly establish at the roots.

Stakes should be short but sturdy – always thicker than the tree itself. It doesn’t matter if the top of the tree moves around (within reason), in fact it promotes thickening of the trunk, and if you stake too high you will end up with a perpetually spindly trunk that may never be able to support itself.

Securely drive the stake into the planting hole on the side of the prevailing wind and make sure you have a good, durable tie to hand – preferably rubber or plastic to minimise rubbing – and long enough to secure the tree but still allow for some movement and flexing, again to encourage strengthening of the trunk.

A rootbound pot-grown tree.

Once the hole is prepared you can unwrap or un-pot your tree or shrub and take a good look at its root system. My experience of planting many thousands of trees and shrubs is that unless the roots are relatively free and open then establishment will be delayed, often for several years. This is particularly key if your tree has been pot-grown.

If the roots are looking bound-together and have spiralled around the inside of the pot, and a gentle shaking and teasing won’t budge them, then the best remedy is to soak or hose away some (or even most) of the compost to try to free the roots without breaking them.

Next mound up a small amount of the top soil that you’ve previously removed into the centre of the planting hole until the tree sits with the base of it’s stem/trunk at the natural surrounding ground level. This level is really crucial. If you plant too deep, with the trunk collar under ground level, then the bark at the base of the tree will almost certainly rot off and the tree will be killed. Too high and the roots will be exposed, severely weakening, and probably destabilising the whole plant.

Then, breaking up all large clumps of soil that you’ve dug out, and crumbling everything into as fine a tilth as possible (again to allow quick and easy root penetration) quickly infill the rest of the planting hole and gently press in with your hands – not with a big stomping, root and air crushing boot! – then water thoroughly to let the soil settle into the hole.

The only material that goes back into the planting hole should be that which came out – or if it’s very poor or stony, other topsoil from as near as possible to the planting hole.

Why not take the opportunity to add lots of juicy well rotted manure or compost to feed the tree? The breaking down of this type of material completely changes the soil chemistry near the tree roots. It robs the soil of oxygen for it’s own decomposition, kills most of the beneficial, but very delicate fungi, and creates excess moisture that leads to root rot. Fertilisers also promote excess shoot and leaf growth, but do nothing for the root system, and will leave the tree with a desperate imbalance that may result in massive die-back as time passes.

Betula nigra - the river birch: well mulched, grass-free and thriving.

Finally it’s important to protect the new tree from competition for water from weeds, and particularly grass – vital if planting in a lawn or field. So once safely planted and staked the planting hole should then be mulched.

We use purpose made mulch mats, which fit flat over the planting hole and give years of protection as they slowly decompose. Well composted bark or garden compost is another, and more attractive alternative for the garden, but be sure to leave the trunk itself mulch-free or you’ll invite basal bark rot once again.

All that then remains is to keep well watered during dry spells, particularly for the first few years, and top up with an annual mulch. Then, sit back and enjoy the fruits of your one-days-labour for many, many years to come.

Tulips should definitely go in this month.  Plant them a few inches apart in rough, slightly disorganized groups and bury them really deeply – 6 inches down if you can.  This will put off all but the most energetic of squirrels, but if you have had a major problem in the past, bury a small piece of chicken wire between the bulbs and the soil surface.  They really, really don’t like that.

I absolutely adore tulips.  These are some combinations that work for me:  ‘Ballerina’ tulips with emerging shoots of Euphorbia griffithii ‘Dixter’.  ‘Spring Green’ tulips around the base of a white-barked Himalayan birch (Betula utilis ‘Jacquemontii).  Tall, white-and-green-flowered Allium nigrum with ‘White Triumphator’ tulips.

Daffodil, crocus and allium bulbs do better the earlier they are planted – September or October are ideal times, I have to say – but better late than never and they can still go in now.  Plant them all with at least twice their height’s worth of soil over their heads.

If bulbs are to be left alone to naturalize, sprinkle a little grit and slow-acting, long-lasting bonemeal under their bottoms at planting time for good measure.  And remember to mark where you have planted them.  I stick a few slim wooden kebab sticks in the ground around each ‘drift’ – quicker to do than write labels, and just visible enough for long enough to remind me not to plant anything else in what may seem, for the next few months, like a tantalizingly vacant spot.  You may think you will remember where everything is, but how many times have we all stuck our spades through our bulbs, I wonder?

I am in the process of moving all of my pelargonium’s and fuchsias into my potting shed.  The problem being that over the last few months I have let it become very messy!!  I will have to give it a sort out and then the moving can start. I cut the plants down by half and clean up any decaying leaves.  I need to make space for the dahlias as well.

For these I take the tubers out of the pots and leave in a tray upside down.   I then sprinkle with yellow sulphur, then cover with dry compost and leave in a dry, dark frost free place until the spring.

I have spent the odd dry day wandering around my garden, secateurs in hand, sniping and tidying the borders.

I also thought it would be a good idea to prune the roses that have a lot of fresh growth to prevent wind rock. In the vegetable garden I have cleared away any fallen leaves and weeds and harvested all the crops that will spoil in the very cold weather. I have covered the last of the salad with cloches to see if I can get it to over winter again.  Fingers crossed it will or I could always sow some on the window sill.

There is a tremendous amount of berries on our Holly and Sorbus trees, which will give the birds lots to eat.  I must remember to get out the bird feeders and give them a good wash ready to fill them for the Winter time.  I had a lot of trouble with squirrels last year, they managed to take down, destroy and try to bury any bird feeder I hung up even the square ones!

I have a lot of self seeded Verbena Bonariensis that seeded into the driveway.  I moved them into pots and they are now ready to plant out into the main herbaceous border along with the Guara  Lindheimeri that I have grown.  They should settle in quickly because the soil is still so warm.   I am an avid seed collector and have been out collecting the seeds of Nicotiana Sylvestris, fennel and coriander ready for next year.  I store them into paper bags that I have brought my market fruit and vegetables in or brown envelopes or sometimes I have asked my local camera shop for the plastic film cases that they just throw away.  All are great for seed storage.

This completed I continued to tidy and weed the vegetable garden.  I planted out some very late lettuce and made sure to surround them with an ample circle of Slug and Snail Deterrent.

I still have a lot of spinach another soup favourite and masses of Raspberries which I am picking on a daily basis.  I must make some room to plant out some Garlic and make space for the kale that I am growing.  I had to pull up all the original kale plants as they had a bad attack of cabbage white caterpillars. The tomatoes in the green house are slow to ripen but then I remembered a tip I had heard it was to put a banana skin near the tomatoes and the chemical that is released from the banana will help the tomatoes ripen.  The good thing is that it is working.

I am also going to sow some Calendula ( pot marigold) for next year I love to have these bright little flowers in the vegetable patch and dotted around the garden.

In the flower borders I am continuing to dead head and collect seed for next year.  The Asters are the star flower  in the herbaceous border with the sedums coming a close second.  We have Aster novi-belgii and Aster frikartii ‘monarch’ and Sedum spectabile ‘carmen’  I seem to have inherited some plants this season that were not there last year.  One is the very large Rudbeckia Herbstsonne and a pink flower Chelome obliqua .  Perhaps the seed was dropped by birds or they came along with another plant.  It’s always fun when this happens.

So September is the month you should build a leaf cage – or even another leaf cage (read on) – in which to store and compost the leaves that are about to hail down on you – gardening manna from heaven.

All you need is four stout posts some chicken wire and something with which to tie them together.  Leaves rot slowly by the action of bacteria and fungi and need neither to be covered nor to heat up, unlike ‘green’ garden waste.  Make the cage bigger than you think you need, since initially leaves take up loads of space (unless you use a leaf-collector or mow them up, which shreds them, thereby speeding up the rotting process into the bargain).  Don’t make the mistake of just piling up new ‘old’ leaves on top of last year’s almost-rotted ones, or you will get in a terrible pickle when you try to use them.  And if you don’t have space for a leaf heap, or only have a few leaves anyway?  Cram leaves into punctured black bags, shove them under evergreen shrubs and forget them for 18 months.

Make sure you prune your early-summer flowering shrubs and (once-flowering) old shrub roses, cutting out old flowering shoots to reveal the new growth that will flower next year.  Older bushes may need a major stem cut out from ground level to encourage the whole framework to renew itself.  You can also give June-clipped box hedges that look a bit shaggy a neatening trim – in fact this is a good time to cut other evergreen hedges too.

Cut back and feed June/July-flowering perennials (even delphiniums) with a soluble fertilizer (wormery fluid, comfrey or sea weed, for example).  Some perennials will come back and flower again this summer – but make sure you take the opportunity to renew slug defences.  Alchemilla mollis and cat mint will come back from severe shearing, while borders generally benefit from the removal of excess, tired foliage, which can all be composted.  Keep on deadheading all plants – except those plants that carry good-looking bird-friendly seed heads.

It is all systems go in the vegetable patch this month.  Garden hygiene is important in order to minimize pests and diseases. But when clearing up and composting the debris of old crops, remember to leave the roots of legumes (peas and beans) in the soil for a few more weeks. This insures that they introduce all their nitrogen back into the soil – valuable fertiliser for next season’s leafy crops.