Archive for February, 2010

All hail the Daffodil.

Friday, February 26th, 2010

So, after a long and very hard winter (including the coldest day ever recorded down here in Devon) we are at long last on the cusp of Spring….and if there is one flower that single-handedly epitomises the season of rebirth it definitely has to be the sunny daffodil.

Narcissus pseudonarcissus.

Although we now think of Daffodils as being a ubiquitous mainstay of pretty much every garden, it was only around 150 years ago that they really caught the imagination of gardeners and in particular plant breeders in a big way. The 25 to 50 wild species (botanists disagree a lot on this!) were all brought into British cultivation around the middle of the 19th Century, since which time several generations, and many hundreds of Daff obsessives have dedicated their lives and gardens to breeding new forms.

The wild species that is so commonly seen brightening up British hedgerows in springtime is Narcissus pseudonarcissus, a real little charmer, full of nodding delicacy and subtle, harmonious colour.

Narcissus 'Tracey'

It has to be said, though, that for much of the history of Daffodil breeding, the emphasis has been on creating bigger, bolder, blowsier flowers, and many of the current hybrids are grossly enlarged from their wild counterparts and come in an array of improbably gaudy colours.

These hybrids may look appealing in colour catalogues, but can suffer from a few weather-related problems when growing in your typical garden – they easily snap and tear in strong winds, are damaged by heavy rain and scorched by sun.

Like much else in the garden, fashions in Daffodils and their breeding have recently shifted somewhat, and the emphasis for many has reverted back to producing weather resistant, easily cultivated Narcissi will readily naturalise in the garden and that (even where they have resulted from convoluted inter-breeding programmes) have an essentially wild-flower look to them.

For convenience all garden Narcissi are grouped into 13 separate “divisions,” each of which bring together hybrids that resemble one another under headings such as “double-flowered” or “small-cupped.” Also amongst these divisions are groups of Daffodils derived from particular wild species, and three of these incorporate those wild-looking, easily cultivated Narcissi.

Narcissus 'Thalia'

Division 5 Daffodils all originated from the species Narcissus triandrus - an exceptionally pretty plant native to Portugal and Spain.

Most of the garden forms are hybrids and back-crosses with our own N. pseudonarcissus, which was used to bring vigour and hardiness into the mix.

Commonly known as Angels’ Tears Narcissi, these generally carry two or three smallish flowers on each 30cm stem and come in a range of whites, creams and yellows.

‘Thalia’ is an old, widely available, pure white hybrid that is a very good do-er which naturalises extremely well in grass. ‘Petrel’, ‘Ice Wings’ ‘Tresamble’ and ‘Niveth’ are other good creamy whites, ‘Lemon Drops’ has contrasting yellow trumpets whilst ‘Liberty Bells’ is one of the best pure yellows.

Narcissus 'Rapture'

Division 6 is the home of the Narcissus cyclamineus hybrids.

This is another species native to southern Europe, but which is, nonetheless, a particularly tough and very easily cultivated garden plant here in the UK.

As its name suggests the species has flowers that (in shape at least) somewhat resemble a Cyclamen, with severely swept-back petals that, in the best forms, give a lovely just-caught-in-a-wind-tunnel effect.

Though still very much on the small side for a Daffodil, these are generally a little taller and larger flowered than the Division 5 plants, and always have one single flower per stem.

As well as white, cream and yellow, new forms are now incorporating orange and true apricot into the flowers.

Narcissus 'Cotinga'

Cultivars like ‘Tracey’ (white) ‘Warbler’ and ‘Rapture’ (both yellow) sport flowers that closely resemble the wild species, whilst ‘Cotinga’ and ‘Elizabeth Ann’ ‘Foundling’ have more rounded flowers, all with soft apricot-coloured trumpets and pure white petals.

‘February Gold’ and the beautiful creamy white ‘February Silver’ are short, tough and vigorous growing forms selected for exceptionally early flowering, although in most years this generally kicks off in March rather than February.

Finally, division 7 daffodils are the Narcissus jonquilla hybrids, again derived from a species that is native to Spain.

These can vary from quite dwarf to around 60cm tall, but they are always robust and weather resistant carrying up to five (rarely eight) flowers per stem.

Narcissus 'Cherie'

The flower shape is generally rounded; colours range from vivid daffodil-yellow through primrose together with a few white cultivars – some with orange tinted cups – but the majority are beautifully fragrant.

‘Sweetness’ and the Devon bred ‘Rosemoor Gold’ are both very easily grown pure yellow selections, ‘Oryx’ ‘Curlew’ and ‘Sweet Blanche’ are amongst the best whites, whilst the recently introduced ‘Cherie’ is an exceptionally beautiful pastel peach and white.


Still raining

Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010

Well,  I had hoped to get out into the garden again this week but I have missed the opportunity because of the weather.  It’s just so miserable.  I did manage to move some small trees.   I have moved them into an empty border and am now waiting for better weather to repair the holes in the lawn with some top soil and some grass seed.  If this does not work then I will buy some turf in the coming months.  I also managed to prune some really unruly very large roses.  I hope that they will flower better in the summer month.

Empty border ready for trees

Empty border ready for trees

s.


Getting to know your soil.

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Selecting and arranging plants in the garden is probably one of the most rewarding tasks for any gardener, and one that many of us devote lots of time and thought too, but how many of us can say the same for the soil in which those same plants will have to grow?

Good old garden soil isn’t as pretty, glamorous or tasty(?!) as the flowers, trees and veg that it supports, but getting to knowing your soil, it’s limitations and benefits, must be one of the most useful things you can do in any plot. It will allow you to determine the range of plants best suited for success in your particular garden, and so minimise disappointments, and will also let you figure out the best methods to improve the soil you already have.

There are five different types of soil found in British gardens. Any given site can, of course, have a combination of several of these types, and there are also gradations between types, as well as extremes of each, where the gardening is at it’s most challenging. Being able to recognise your particular soil types is probably the best place to start in any garden.

Clay.

A pure clay lump - typical of subsoil that has been brought to the surface.

All soil types are, to a large extent, determined by particle size and clay soils have the smallest particles of all. Pure clay – which makes up much of the British subsoil – is just like modelling clay, the sort of thing you’d expect to find spinning round on a potters wheel. Put a glob between your fingers at it will feel smooth and putty-like.

Most clay garden soils aren’t quite as extreme as that – although individual, fist-sized balls of pure clay are not uncommon even in topsoil, and are typical of new gardens where the subsoil has been disturbed and brought up to the surface by building work.

The great benefit of a clay based soil is that it is extremely nutrient rich and capable of supporting a very wide range of plants. The downsides are all to do with that tiny particle size. When wet the soil is extremely heavy and frustratingly difficult to dig and work with. It can also be easily compacted, driving all of the air out and forming a dense, thick layer that roots can find all but impenetrable. Although clay soils are naturally very moisture retentive – which can be handy in a dry summer – when they do dry out they bake into an extremely hard, cracked surface pan which is, once again, completely unworkable.

Sand.

Sandy soil - open and free running.

A sandy soil is one with a very small percentage of clay particles, where the large bulk is instead made up of much more coarse quartz and silica originating from weathered rock. Take a chunk of this between your fingers and it will always feel gritty and loose. Unlike a clay soil, sand-based soils will never “clump” and will always be more-or-less free running when you dig through them.

Sandy soils can make for fantastic cultivation options; they warm up very easily in the spring and so promote a long growing season, they will never be water-logged and are easily worked at any time of the year. The major downsides are to do with fertility and water-retention, which are both pretty poor, or in extreme cases, non-existent. A wide array of drought tolerant, generally surface rooting plants have evolved to specialise in sandy soils, but unless you are happy to stick with these, a sandy soil will require ongoing maintenance to allow for a wide community of plants to flourish.

Loam.

Lovely loam - nutrient rich and easily worked.

Loam is a kind of generic term given to the ideal garden soil that consists of a roughly equal mixture of clay and sand, and which brings the benefits of both soil types with few if any of the disadvantages.

Loam soils are open, and easily worked but full of nutrients. They are moisture retentive in summer but free draining in winter.

There is no doubt that a loam based soil will support the widest range of garden plants with the least amount of alteration and soil maintenance. Very few “wild” soils are naturally loamy – river basins and flood plains with millennia of silt deposits are perhaps the main exception – although having a loam garden soil is, understandably, an ongoing holy grail for most gardeners. Continued cultivation and improvement will gradually move any soil towards a loamy condition.

Chalk.

Chalk soil - typically very shallow and stony.

Certain localised regions of Britain have naturally calcareous or chalk-based soils, all of which are derived from weather limestone, which is itself the result of deposition in ancient, long-since-disappeared oceans.

Chalk soils are identifiable by their light colour. They are generally very stony too, with pieces of pure calcium chalk in the mix. They can be wet and difficult to work in winter but bone dry and rock-like in summer, and their overall nutrient level is low.

Again, a specialised wild flora has evolved to thrive on chalk soils, but many cultivated plants will find conditions much tougher. Most garden plants require acidic to neutral soils in order to be able to access the full range of nutrients that they need. Chalk soils, though, are inherently alkaline in nature and, unless you plan on replacing the entire top soil, that’s not something that can be fundamentally changed.

Peat.

A very pure, black-peat soil.

The other localised soil type, and at the other extreme from the chalk soils, are the peat-based soils. All of these soils occur in regions that were once marshland, and the peat is the result of many millennia of rotting plants all deposited and compacted.

Peat-based soils are, of course, naturally acidic, and very dark in colour ranging from dark brown to pure black bog peats. This dark colour ensures that  the soils warm rapidly in spring and like loam soils, provide for a long growing season. They are also recognisable for being very light and crumbly in texture but having a poor range of nutrients naturally available.

Depending on where they are located peat soils may either be very wet and still marsh-like year round or, where the geology has displaced and raised the ground level, seasonally dry and easily cultivated. Again, a range of plants have evolved to specialise in peat-soils, and so long as the area isn’t water-logged, the gardening possibilities are rich and extensive.


Crocus surprise.

Saturday, February 20th, 2010

Popping out into the garden this morning I noticed that I had a number of small purple crocus  in my  lawn.  What a lovely surprise.  That’s the interesting thing about a new house and garden you never know whats going to happen next.  I rushed inside to get my camera to take a photo.  Then when the sun had been on the lawn for a few hours I took another snap with the flower fully open.  Look how beautiful it looks.  Soon a whole patch of grass will be covered in the little gems.

Little crocus in the lawn

Little crocus in the lawn

My little crocus fully open

My little crocus fully open


Wildlife ponds.

Friday, February 19th, 2010

Having some form of water in the garden, whether running or still is certainly one of the top choices for many gardeners, wherever they may garden. Most also know that providing water, and a pond in particular, is one of the key things that you can do to help out and attract wildlife into the garden.

A very well established wildlife pond.

Not all ponds are created equal, however, and there’s a world of difference between an ornamental pond and a wildlife pond. That’s not to say that wildlife ponds are not ornamental – considering the added benefits of wildlife watching I’d say they are actually more attractive.

Equally, ponds build purely for ornament can also be useful to some wildlife, but they are just as likely to prove frustratingly out-of-reach for many species that are otherwise itching to call your garden their home.

So if you have a pond already nestled somewhere in your garden, or are pondering adding one somewhere, what are the main considerations for attracting wildlife?

Situation

First off it’s pretty critical that your pond is located in as sunny a spot as possible. Shade, whether from buildings or over-hanging trees, is not a recipe for a well-balanced aquatic eco-system. From plants to frog-lets to dragonflies, they all require the suns energy in large doses if they’re to live long and prosper.

Surroundings

Broad-Bodied Chaser - a dragonfly that specialises in colonising new ponds.

Over-hanging trees can not only serve to block out the vital light, but are also likely to deposit large quantities of fallen leaves in the water, which will either spell possible disaster for the pond-life, or a considerable amount of wet and squelchy work for you as you try to keep them out in the first place.

Tree roots also have a habit of puncturing liners – even solid ones – so be wary of locating a pond too near to them. On the other hand almost all wildlife will greatly benefit from the shelter and protection of shrubs, or taller grasses and perennials.

Virtually all visiting insects will also greatly benefit from a sun-bathing spot – log piles and large, flat stones provide perfect platforms for them to warm up on a chilly morning and can become life savers through unseasonably cold or wet summer weather.

Lining

The ideal base for any wildlife pond is certainly a natural, clay lining, but in almost all cases this is either impossible or impractical, so a butyl liner is the next best option by far. Solid moulded resin ponds are readily available but are generally both too small and too limited in design to be ideal for wildlife. They also represent quite poor value for money and often have a shorter life span than a butyl liner.

Fish

In short, fish are a major no-no. If you want a fish-pond, that’s absolutely fine of course, but realise that pretty much everything else that might otherwise want to live or feed at the pond will be pretty much annihilated by the presence of fish, which, in small garden ponds at least, are strictly the preserve of the ornamental pond.

Not only do fish feed on all of the invertebrate, amphibian and many of the plant life forms in a pond, but their manure also destabilises the chemical composition of the water and can lead to algal monocultures that are encouraged by the excess nitrogen.

Depth

Palmate Newt - by far the most common of the 3 British species.

The depth of water and in particular the variety of different depths within the pond is probably the most important consideration for attracting wildlife. Somewhere near the centre needs to have a minimum water depth of 60cm, preferably 90cm. This will ensure the pond never freezes and will provide a vital haven for a huge number of over-wintering aquatic insects and newts.

Even more crucial though (and the reason why pre-formed solid ponds don’t make for good wildlife habitats) is that the sides should be gently sloping, with shelves and shallow platforms incorporated in as many places as possible. All of these features are multi-functional; they allow amphibians to easily get in any out of the water – it’s quite possible for frogs and toads to drown in unsuitable, steep-sided ponds; they create drinking and bathing places for birds; they allow the water to heat up rapidly and form important nursery zones for tadpoles and numerous invertebrates; and they allow for a wide variety of different plants, which in turn attract and support the widest variety of wildlife.

Plantings

Sagittaria - the Arrowhead, a pretty and very useful British native marginal plant.

Pond plants come in three basic types – fully aquatic/oxygenating, floating/surface dwelling and marginal. The fully aquatic plants are crucial habitats for everything that lives in the pond, as well as being the digesting engines that keep the water clean and oxygenated. The marginals, though, are at least as important, and create an array of different mini-habitats for wildlife. These are also the most ornamental plants in the pond and allow for a huge number of different styles, looks and colour-combinations, whilst benefiting the wildlife that they live with.

The floating or surface plants (water-lilies included) are also required to create pools of shade and prevent the whole pond from over-heating. Finally, consider a run-off/overspill bog garden area at one end of the pond to encourage an even wider range of animals.

Water

Ideally tap water should never be introduced to a wildlife pond, either when it’s first created and filled, or when topping-up is needed during the summer. If possible try to collect rainwater in butts or barrels – it will be far less destabilising, and will have a chemical composition close to that of the existing pond water.

Maintenance

Blanket weed - with the patented rake removal technique.

Pond maintenance is a large-ish topic unto itself, but a well-balanced wildlife pond is much more self-sustaining, and requires far less maintenance that do most ornamental ponds.

Excess vegetation may need to be cleared out in autumn, as plants are dying back. This is also the time of least impact to the wildlife, but make sure and aquatic pond-weed is left at the pond edge for 24 hours or so to allow newts and dragonfly larvae time to wriggle back into the safety of the water. The weed can then be added to the compost heap. The appearance of blanket-weed (a filamentous form of algae) or green water (a free floating form of algae) denotes an excess of nutrients in the pond.

So long as there isn’t a major run-off of garden soil or fertiliser then balance will eventually be reached and the algae’s will largely disappear, but this happy equilibrium can take a few seasons. In the meantime blanketweed can be removed by hand or by twirling it around a rake.


A day in the garden

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

What a beautiful day it was yesterday the sun was shinning and the birds were singing.  I rushed through my normal morning chores and headed for the garden to sort out one of my many untidy borders.  I cut done the now broken and crushed perennials and cut  the stalks into small pieces, weeded and even moved around and split up some of the plants in the border.  I finished up with a quick snipe of the edges and hey presto my border looks well cared for again and ready for the ton of  organic mulch I will be getting  for the garden once it gets a little warmer.

Sorting out my borders

Sorting out my borders

sniping up the sticks

sniping up the sticks


Indoor Daffodils

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010

In December I decided to plant up some bulbs into various containers.  I had kept daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, grape hyacinths and some small blue iris reticulata  from the following year. Once potted up I put them into my green house to keep them warm and force them along also to stop the mice from eating them which had happened the previous year in the potting shed.  Now I have a wonderful display of daffodils indoors that has  looked good for at least two weeks already and I also have a collection of the other bulbs in assorted baskets  mulched in Ecocharlie slug and snail deterrent by the front door that can be moved into the house as and when.  Much cheaper than brought flowers as they can used next year too!

Sunny  indoor dafodils

Sunny indoor daffodils


Free pea sticks

Tuesday, February 16th, 2010
Pea sticks for free

Pea sticks for free

There was great excitement this morning when I heard the sound of the hedge cutters going.  Our neighbour had his gardeners cutting the hedge to the side of our house and my first thought was pea sticks for free.  I rushed outside and asked the guys if they minded me taking the sticks.  Of course they were pleased as punch as that meant they would not have to clear them up, so we were both happy.  I now have lots of supports for my vegetable garden and the herbaceous plants too. Happy days.


Trees for the garden.

Monday, February 15th, 2010

Stewartia - one of the finest of all garden-sized trees.

As night follows day, having blogged about how to plant a tree in my last post it seems pretty logical to follow with some suggestions as to which trees to plant.

Most gardeners obviously don’t have rolling acres to play with, and at best might only be able to make room for a couple of small to medium trees in their garden, so it’s pretty essential that any tree has to really deliver to earn it’s place. With this in mind I’ve been ruthless with my selections and have only included small-ish trees that offer multi-season interest. Aside from the beauty and appeal inherent in any tree, many can also offer various combinations of ornamental bark, flowers, foliage, fragrance, fruit, and autumn colour, as well as being appealing to wildlife, so I’ve gone for recommendations that tick as many of these boxes as possible.

Cornus kousa - tasty fruit.

I mentioned Cornus kousa – the Japanese Dogwood – a few blogs ago, and I’m going to start with this beauty here too.

Moderately sized, even at maturity, and easy to please in all but the harshest environments this supremely elegant plant definitely has a prolonged appeal.

Showy floral bracts of white, pink and cherry red slowly enlarge throughout May and June, to be followed by equally ornamental, edible, large, strawberry-like fruit in early autumn.

The show culminates with vivid displays of leaf colour in October. Lots of selections are available, but the deep pink flowered ‘Satomi’ is pretty tough to beat.

Amelanchier - autumn finery.

Flowering earlier in the Spring the Amelachiers are slender, graceful members of the rose family. There are a number of species, many of which are essentially shrubs, but A. x grandiflora is more definitely tree-like.

Commonly known as the Snowy Mespilus, throughout April the trees are smothered by delicate white or pink blooms which contrast with the new foliage that unfurls a bronze-red colour.

Sweet, purple-black blueberry-like fruits are formed in autumn and these are highly edible to humans and birds alike.

If all that wasn’t reason enough to plant one, many Amelachiers, such as A. grandiflora ‘Autumn Brilliance’, also have red, orange and gold autumn leaf colour.

Abies koreana cones.

For something completely different how about Abies koreana, the Korean fir, an easily accommodated, slow-growing conifer with a typically Christmas Tree shape.

The foliage is bi-coloured, with each needle dark green on its upper surface and bright silver beneath.

Attractive at any season this little guy really comes into his/her own when the cones start to appear – which they do on even the smallest specimens.

These are blue-violet, covered with a silvery white bloom and are held upright, looking like candles all along the branches. Just beautiful.

Arbutus x andrachnoides - the polished trunk glowing after rain.

Another evergreen, though not, this time a conifer, Arbutus x andrachnoides is a hybrid form of the Strawberry tree.

One of my very favourite plants, this has handsome, glossy, lightly serrated foliage all year round, with clusters of little white urn-shaped flowers appearing in spring, and often again in late autumn and winter.

Some of these go on to form the bright-red fruit that do indeed resemble wild strawberries, but actually the real glory of the tree lies elsewhere.

As the plants mature they form very appealing, sinuous, twisting branches, covered with papery, deep red bark which flakes away to reveal a gorgeous, deep red glossy trunk – spectacular after rainfall.

Another tree renowned for it’s bark is Prunus serrula – the Tibetan Cherry. This well known little beauty has a satin-like trunk that resembles highly polished mahogany. Although it’s far from the showiest cherry in term of its flowers or fruit, spring does see the tree transformed with a dusting of pure white blossom, plus the small, bright scarlet fruit are attractive to birds in autumn.

Malus tschonoskii - a crab-apple for all seasons.

Malus is a large genus that includes the apples and crab-apples. Many of them are well worth growing, and the best combine showy flowers and fruit with fine autumn colour.

My favourite three are the stiffly upright-growing M. tschonoskii – the Pillar Apple – with open, white flowers, red-tinted crab fruit and startling autumn colour; M. transitora, which never fails to amaze me every year with it’s super-abundance of flowers and the little orange-yellow fruit that follow, before the whole tree turns to shades of apricot in Autumn; and M. baccata, the Siberian Crab, with deliciously fragrant white flowers, equally delicious deep red fruit and, in a good year, bright red autumn foliage too.

Cercis siliquastrum.

Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ is an extremely widely grown small tree with deep purple-red heart-shaped foliage.

The species is very showy in flower in its native North America, but the British climate doesn’t quite suit it and it rarely puts on much of a show here.

I much prefer its Asian relative, C. siliquastrum – the Judas Tree. This has equally beautiful, rounded foliage but is also smothered with purple-pink flowers (there’s also an even more beautiful pure white-flowered form) in early summer, followed by elongated, bean-like seed pods that mature to an ornamental deep red.

Parrotia persica - unrivalled in autumn.

It often amazes people that a tree whose native home is Iran should do so well in overcast Britain, but Parrotia persica comes from the Alborz mountains in the far north of country, which are actually home to lush, cool upland forests.

Parrotias are well know for spectacular autumn tints, when they turn into multicoloured arrangements of purple, gold, orange and red, but the trees also have patterned, bark that flakes away in small sheets to reveal the pinky-yellow colour beneath.

A final surprise comes in the dead of winter, when petal-less deep red flowers erupt straight out of the bare stems, eventually falling to form a ruby red carpet beneath the trees.

Styrax obassia.

A real garden aristocrat, Styrax obassia almost didn’t qualify for inclusion on this list, since it can’t boast any dramatic fruit, bark or autumn foliage finery.

What is does have, though, are large racemes of beautifully fragrant, pure white bell-shaped flowers that resemble large bunches of snowdrops. These are, rather usefully, produced in summer when few other trees are doing their thing.

The other thing I love about this tree is the foliage; Pure green, almost circular, and around 20cm across, each leaf resembles a small dinner plate with a little drip-tip added on one side.

Sorbus vilmorinii - a real wildlife magnet.

Like Malus, Sorbus is another big genus of trees and shrubs, some of which are amongst the most ornamental of all garden plants.

Separated into the “Whitebeams” with large, entire leaves, and the “Rowans” with heavily divided, fern-like foliage, most of the best for garden use come from the second group. Our own native Rowan M. aucuparia is a highly attractive small tree, very appealing to insects when in flower, and to birds when laden with bright red autumn fruit. M. commixta ‘Embley’ is it’s Japanese counterpart, and adds bright scarlet autumn leaf colour to the mix. The Chinese S. vilmorinii is perhaps the pick of them all, with exceptionally fine, very heavily divided foliage that colours well in autumn and large clusters of fruit that change from pink to violet, eventually ageing to white

Stewartia psudocamellia - large flowers and bright autumn colour are seasonal, but the flaking, peeling trunks are attractive year round.

I have, arguably, saved the best to last. Rarely seen outside of specialist collections I truly believe Stewartias to be the finest of all garden trees. Close relatives of the camellias these beauties leave no ornamental stone unturned.

S. sinensis, S. rostrata, and the more frequently seen S. pseudocamellia are the three that do best in British cultivation. They all have the most gorgeous peeling, flaking, and eventually polished trunks that look like the body of some giant python, coupled with large, creamy white, camellia-like flowers, and stunning purple red and orange autumn colour.

Give them a sheltered spot in the garden, ideally in semi-shade, and they will reward you with a lifetime of year-round beauty.


An hour in the garden

Saturday, February 13th, 2010

What a pleasure it was to be able to spend time pottering in the garden this afternoon and it was quite amazing what can be done when you have a small amount of time.  I didn’t really have a plan  I just started clearing the dead leaves from the crocosmias in the front garden and then the dead leaves from the Alchemilla Mollis by the front door.  I broke the ice on the water tank for the birds.  Then I noticed that the edges to the grass on the borders I was working on needed cutting.

Winter aconites

Winter aconites

I was surprised to see that the grass was growing as it has been so cold and  I also noticed that there were a few weeds growing as well so I pulled them out.  With this completed I picked  up some  leaves that had blown into little piles. I  felt much better and my garden looked better too. I finished off with a stroll around the rest of the garden and was delighted to see lots of bright yellow Winter Aconites had appeared. I wonder what will appear next.